That’s beautiful, KB. Love that smoothed out silver.
Hello, any idea of how many CDs an L2 convoy produces, with xhp 50.2 and controller H1-A from kaindomain with r100 added and 1 single cell? I really like the move short and sand-colored version, greetings!
what do they mean with new version? Talking about the black one…
Probably just that it is the version that comes with the extension tube to use 2 cells, the driver that’s in it will handle it both ways, one cell or two cells.
There is a variant that is in “short form” with only the single cell tube , this one can’t handle two cells.
Typically when buying the L2 as a host you get both tubes so you can set it up how you wish. I have extra tubes thanks to Mitko and have set one up with 4 cells running an XHP-35, works great but it’s LONG! lol
I see, yeah I know about the 2 tubes, i just had the doubt it was an even newer version 
but you must be right, nothing is written in the description and there are no new models in the official convoy store. I was suspicious because the black version actually costs slightly more than the new grey and desert tan variants (talking about the code discounted prices).
Yeah, I’m pretty sure the “new version” is a couple years old… not so new anymore. The original version had a 17mm driver pocket and the single-battery block-style tube. As of about a year ago they became nigh-impossible to find; all you really see now is the “new” version.
Edit: yup, according to the announcement thread the update was done on 2016-01-08 after only being for sale for < 3 months.
Ok, thanks 
Hello, can somebody tell me the lens diameter of L6 and if there are green lens of good quality for it :person_facepalming:
(it is a firend request)
68x3mm….and No…
I don’t think I’d use a green lens to change the color, if I was wanting an L6 to be green I believe I’d use a Buck driver (like from MaxToch at some 6.5A) and the SBT-70 in green. That should make some good output and not be too hot, would be conservative on the power level for that emitter. (Yes, I’ve been wanting to find a reason to use the Green SBT-70 for some time now! lol )
Edit: The Luminus SBT-70 in Green is supposed to make some 2000 lumens at 10.5A. Datasheet HERE.
Edit II: Uh, they’re not Terribly expensive… only $95 at Mouser
Slap some green film on the lens. Like a gel lens.
Unless the film is a FR rated film then it will probably buckle and melt. Lee does make FR (Fire Retardant) films but I am not sure about in green. And the amount of losses coming from such a film will be very high. Any green film dark enough to really tint the light will probably cost 40% of the output or more…
Sorry, it’s called HT for high temperature, the dark green has a 29.7% light transmission, meaning of course that it cuts a whopping 70% of the light!
Importantly, it’s not just cutting out 70% of the light - that light still has to go somewhere. In this case, it has to get absorbed as heat. So yeah, 70% of 3000+ lumens getting aborbed as heat, on top of the losses from the driver and LED itself.
I have no idea why anybody would need 3000 lumens worth of green light. I just assumed they would use a much lower level where efficiency and Heat are not any big deal.
Thaks a lot, I also find it a strange idea, yet to each his own. I believe my friend will drop these ideas.
Does he need massive output? It seems overkill. What about a green XP-E2 in a C8 host with a nanjg105c driver with 5-6 chips? It’d still throw like crazy and would only cost about $25 to build.
Hey guys, I’m having trouble putting a FET driver in my L6. I bought this FET from RMM (30mm FET+7135 Driver with the firmware: D4 UI V2 (E. Switch) )
I put it in, initially connecting the side switch on the “Mom. Sw.” pads, put it all together, and the light would never turn on. So I took it back apart, and connect it to the “OTC” pads, still nothing. When I hit the tailcap on and off, and click the side switch on and off, every now and then I see a few of the arrays flash briefly, and super dim. What am I doing wrong?
The only thing I did was open up the center hold just slightly so I could fit a 18ga. positive wire through it. I tried to use my multimeter on the diode test to see if the LED would light up. It didn’t light up. Not sure if the voltage has something to do with it being a XHP70?
Here are some shots of my driver. Anyone notice anything out of place or something I’m blatantly doing wrong? I’m going to try the original tomorrow and see if the emitter is shot or not. Any help would be much appreciated!
(stock from RMM’s website)
I killed one the exact same way. Never figured out what went wrong with it. It’s in my “dead driver pile”. Drilling out the hole must’ve bridged something.
If you figure it out, i’ll have to buy another l6 host and use it.
Did you drill the center hole out as well?
The OTC is for Off Time Capacitor. That is what mechanical clicky switch lights use. The capacitor is missing as it’s not needed on an e-switch light. So hooking your switch wires there will do nothing.
If you look closely at the MCU (has 8 legs and says Atiny85) you will see the dot in the corner. That dot is pin one. Pin two next to it has a positive charge and is looking for a ground signal to function. If you follow that trace from pin 2 it takes you to the MOM labeled pad. That is a convenient spot to attach one of the switch wires.
The other switch wire needs to go to ground. That should be the pad next to it labeled SW.
So I think you had the switch wired correctly the first time.
If your switch works (you can do a continuity test with your multimeter) then it probably is the driver.
Have asked Richard about sending it back to get checked?