I would love a side switch L2 with a FET and Narsil. Like a GT mini, but easy to mod.
Yes that’s what I want. Or a GT midi with one 26650
I built a mini L6. 
It might get replaced by the new C8F 21700.
Once we get some e-switch boost drivers, I’ll make a new mini L6. I’ve already had the new host since April. I’m still waiting on those boost drivers. Lol
I too need some boost drivers in my life.
My SC26’s are really bothering me. I even have a replacement emitter for one, but no driver to go along with it :weary:
Maybe a HD2010 with a OP reflector and a XHP70 with a side switch :heart_eyes:
How about an xhp 70.2 on a P60 drop in for a Solarforce Gladiator? I want to use 4x18650 in series. What driver should I get and what amps?
You’re in the wrong thread, this is only about the Convoy L2 and L6.
Skylumen offers something here.
Or you could ask Lexel here.
At 12v you could go up to 8 or 9 amps.
There’s no way I’d even attempt that in a drop-in. Lousy thermal path compared to better more-integrated hosts.
I got to excited and didn’t read all. I saw comments about the GT. Please accept my apologies it was a honest mistake.
Lightbringer has a point Adrian, you’d have to use lower amperage and not try to drive the 70.2 very hard in such a set up. If you kept it to around 3A at 6V it should be usable but you’d have to watch for the heat to be an issue and you’d really need to do some copper or foil wrap to get the best conductivity possible in the P60 drop-in style light.
The L2 even with a single 26650 can handle such an emitter better, now that Richard at MTNElectronics has a Boost driver this is more doable than ever and is a likely set-up. I plan to try one soon, maybe an XHP-35 as well. 
I’ll definitely try out the new MTN driver as soon as I find a way to get the retaining ring on the driver of my L2 loose. I think the next thing I’m going to try is heat I just hope it doesn’t change the anodizing color.
Taking the retaining ring out was also quite difficult for me.
In my case, the two holes in the ring were very small and my snap ring pliers wouldn’t fit - I ended up widening the holes by grinding them with a philips head screwdriver.
Richard only has a 17mm for sale right now.
His 20mm is not ready yet, but when it is, it should have more output than the 17 mm.
I grinded down some small pliers to fit perfectly, but it’s marring the holes when turning left and not budging.
Thanks Jason I didn’t know a larger version was in the works that definitely works out better.
You’ve already tried snap ring pliers?
I grinded needle nose to fit and it works better for me than snap ring pliers.
I finally got the thing open to find I can’t get to the resistor without desoldering the piggyback board and what seems to be the sense resistor isn’t R025, but R020. Not really sure how to proceed.
Driver says LD-2S on it instead of LD-29
I gather you want to mod the driver for more current? If so, you are on the right track.
I wouldn’t try to mod-it in place, though. Desolder the leads. I’d do it at the emitter MCPCB. I think it will be easier to reassemble the light that way when you are done, at least.
Next put the PCBs parallel again, and desolder the pins connecting the driver to the contact/carrier PCB. I was just looking at one of these last night and thought it would probably be easiest to desolder on the driver PCB, rather than the carrier PCB.
It does look like the sense resistor is R020. If that’s lower than expected then either the driver current is higher than expected, or its using a different driver chip with a lower sense voltage. In any case increasing the current works the same way.
If you want to, say, double the max current, you need to halve the sense resistance (in theory). You’d do this either by replacing the sense resistor with a R010 (aka 10mOhm or 10mR), or paralleling another R020 with it. In reality the increase will probably be somewhat less than double for various reasons.
I plan to do a similar mod. I’m not going to try and double the current though. First because doubling the XP-L HI’s current from 3A to 6A looks like it increases output by ~50% while pushing power consumption up by 125% and, increasing the heat generated by an even larger degree. The other reason is that doubling the current is also going to hurt driver efficiency, likely significantly, due to the inductor being undersized.
My plan is to go for a 50% boost in current, to ~4.5A. That will require a sense resistance of ~R013, which I’ll probably have to get by paralleling resistors. If I’m doing the math right, an R040 paralleled with the R020 should get me the equivalent of ~R013 (13.33 mOhm).
Along with that, I’m probably going to jam a thermal cube between the PCBs, to help transfer heat to the carrier PCB and on to the head. I’ll also fit some sort of heat-spreader to the inductor.
Hmmm, is this driver made this way to enable the use of 2 cells? If so, then it can be difficult to guesstimate power bump from the sense resistor and can be very easy to under-do it or over-do it. Start small, see what the result is, then you’ll know how your particular driver is going to behave.
I haven’t gotten one of those drivers before, my last several L2’s were all ordered as hosts…
Edit: eas, yes, stacking an R040 will indeed result in R013. Whether or not it gives your estimated output remains to be seen. Curious, I am…
Hmm… based on someone elses math I was gonna try, “2 x 0.1Ω in parallel = 0.05Ω, put that in parallel to the original 0.025Ω = 0.01666Ω = 4.2A = ±1400 lumens.” If the alteration is the same then the R020 + 2x R100s should give a slightly higher current, but I’m not particularly interested in testing on my own risk if the values aren’t known.
I guess I’ll wait on an xhp 35 and the mtn boost driver.
I want to swap my L2 emitter to XHP70.2 with about 20A to the LED. Any driver recommendations?