Just bridge it with some tweezers or a pocket knife, anything metal.
Because the crappy ultrafire cant deliver the required amps for high..
Other light is crappy Chinese light
Ok well that is interesting. Ouchyfoot I did as you requested and joined it up Macgyver style with a metal ruler and tweezers and the light works and turns on (I am not depressing the spring when I do this). Try to screw it back in and get the flash happening. What does that mean?
Either the cell or spring is still bridging something in the head, or there is an intermittent connectivity problem in the tailcap or switch.
It’s just a flashlight. There shouldn’t be anything that can’t be solved.
Have you tried checking and tightening down the tailcap switch (use tweezers or point of needle nose pliers to tighten the retaining ring that’s holding the tailcap switch in place)?
Very strange. I have a total of 4 shitfire cells. 3 are in my TR3T6 and they are working fine and they are around 3.5v. They all work in the L4 without even screwing the body into the head all the way. Just enough to make contact with the spring and threads. The 4th cell is at 4.12 now and it won’t work in the same manner as above, ie touching spring against + and threads together. Just get a flash.
If the spring was really shorting something out wouldn’t it be the same for the other 3 batteries? Now the only difference between them is the voltage. The size is identical, all 68.7mm ± 0.1mm. Would using tweezers and a metal ruler increase resistance(?) or something and make the battery essentially have a weaker connection and not draw as many amps? Not sure about that side of things.
I think we can reason it may be the current draw. What do you think?
Ok well that went from bad to worse. While tightening down the retaining clip with some circlip pliers, it slipped, hit the 6 legged chip and broke it off. I’m going to try to solder it back on but my tip is a bit too big. Got nothing to lose now. A little amusing - I feel like an elephant in a supermarket.
Edit
Ok you guys should be proud of me. I managed to solder the IC back on with my stubby nosed solder. I just put the tiniest dot of solder on the tip and dragged it off so it would create a point. Then I dabbed it on each leg. My hands don’t even shake I should really do more of this before my muscles start to degenerate and twitch! You know the extend of my soldering experience is High school electric design where we did the most basic circuits with huge solder blobs. That and perhaps replacing a few capacitors here and there. I’m proud of myself!!
Hooked it back up to the 3.6 batteries and it works fine with the various modes so I guess I’m in the clear. Tightening the battery cap retaining clip didn’t do anything in the end. Its really looking like the battery current is the problem.
It really sounds like: Crapfire battery/crapfire “protection circuit”
Did you check/tighten the retaining ring on the TAILCAP end? From the L7 review, it looks like there should be a ring there also, and sometimes they come loose.
Also, have you tried (or willing to try) removing the protection circuit from the battery in question. I think that sometimes you can remove the outermost heatshrink, and the protection circuit, and there’s still heatshrink on the battery.
I was about to mention removing the protection circuit but ohaya beat me to it.
Good to see you ohaya. I hadn’t see you in any of the threads for a long time.
[quote=ohaya]
I did tighten both yes.
I will pull protection circuit off soon and report back. I just need to put on my
Green gloves.
Ok, the torch now works with the stripped battery. Thank you everyone for diagnosing the problem with me. Despite it being the battery originally, together we did discover that the torch had other preexisting problems with 2 loose retaining caps and a spring that is obese!
Now I would like to know what are the safety measures for this battery now that it has no circuit. I understand my crap chinese 2 cell charger does have v cutoff. But when do I know when to stop using it in a torch, and can I mix this battery with protected cells? Or has this become a lone soldier now.
The driver is an LD34 which has its own built in low voltage warning. It will probably start flashing when voltage is low.