Mhanlen if someone can confirm the resistor size (0805 , 0603 etc) i will find you a link . If you don’t mind waiting (china delivery) , you can buy 100pcs for 0,33$ from aliexpress (1% , 0805 example) .
They are 1206 sense resistors. I used an R100 in mine, it gets warm for sure but in a 10 min turbo test you could still touch the head so I am happy with the outcome.
What size resistor it that? 1206 or maybe a 2010?
Nevermind, answered in previous post. Nice mod video!
Great video, though too scared to attempt to mod my beloved L6 in case I break it!
Here are the links if someone can wait (3 different values to choose that people reported to work great) :
- 1206 SMD Resistor 1% 140 ohm 100pcs/lot
http://s.aliexpress.com/zm2aeYfM
Free shipping 100pcs/lot SMD Chip Resistor 1% 1206 120R 120 OHMS 1/4W 100% YAGEO New Original Chip Fixed Resistor
http://s.aliexpress.com/vm2A3QFJ
Free shipping 100pcs/lot SMD Chip Resistor 1% 1206 100R 100 OHMS 1/4W 100% YAGEO New Original Chip Fixed Resistor
http://s.aliexpress.com/N73ABbiY -
SMO+XHP70=doughnut ring
That was my concern at first too - but for $4.78, you can get a whole replacement driver from Simon’s shop! Reassuring backup in case you fry a driver, or to compare performance before/after mods.
I will try, my camera cant do beam shot video, but I might be able to pull of a snapshot.
You have no idea…. I may be the worlds slowest video editor LOL.
No green that I see, probly just an issue with my photography skills. I had a hard time getting the differences to register in my photos thats why only the 3 pictures. I would say that the de-dome with the MOP reflector tightened the spot about 20-30% over all. Its still certainly got bright spill and a wide range. With the SMO reflector in play the difference in the spot was visually more crisp. There is a slight corona, but its not “ringy” feeling at all.
Thanks man, it means a lot 
I hadn’t thought of a link for the resistor, I will add it. Really if you don’t mind going direct drive, a jumper wire will do. I got to about 6.3a with the one resistor, and didn’t see any noticable change with 2. But with a 20G jumper I got to around 7A. There wont be a lot of return going from the 6.3 to 7A in the way of lux/output. I went from 165K to 172K.
Subscribed :+1:
FYI, These are not the correct resistors. These are 100-140ohm resistors. We need 0.100 - 0.140 ohm resistors. Very tiny resistance.
We are looking for R120 where those would be 120R.
I thought I saw 100R etc . Thanks TA
I will search for links to update the others , but i don’t think they will be cheap .
Yeah, sense resistors are not nearly as cheap but they have to be small resistance or they will cause too much of a voltage drop on the line.
I ordered some from digikey and I think they were $2.38 for 10 of them.
I just looked at the ones I have and they are from fasttech. These are exactly what I had but they are out of stock
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1002/10007371/1615805
Here is an R100 that should also work. Still very cheap from FT.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1002/10007371/1615807
EDIT: This should also work.
L6 is back in stock at Adventure Sport
http://asflashlights.com/convoy-flashlights/92-convoy-l6-3800-lumen-cree-xhp70-1a-and-3c.html
bump.
If you feel like experimenting, this should work: take a single strand from a stranded wire and make a loop/coil of a few turns (not touching other loops in the coil!), then pot it in Fujik. It’ll act as a makeshift wirewound resistor.
With nonmetals like carbon, the resistance is more or less constant with temperature, but metals increase in resistance slightly as they heat up, so this would have the effect of more of a short-circuit (like you did with the jumper wire) when cool, but slowly increase slightly in resistance and also slightly throttle-down the LED current.
The thinner the wire the higher the resistance. With a few lengths (gauge, length of the total “coil”), you can experiment to see what response you like best.
Enjoy!
Great video! You made the slicing look super easy. I think it would take me longer, but looks like you did this a few times 
. What did you do for the focus adjustments?
Thank you Tom. When I had the driver out I replaced the silicone wires with teflon so the reflector could sit lower. Basically the best focus I got with what testing I did was simply to leave out the isolator ring ( no shims etc needed). The reflector can sit down on the rim of the head without touching the LED this way, but its very close. Kapton tape over the electrical contacts is a good plan.
Ahh, ok. Thanx!
Whats the limit on how many resistors i can add?