Convoy metal switch discussion

Im sure that Red Rubber grease together with the rubber seal and some other’s will prevent the water coming in.

The number of place’s it’s used on car’s in far more extreme conditions! There’s water, salt, cold, heat, dirt and other things to contend with, in locations like the car suspension, steering rack, driveshafts etc.

In all of these places rubber boot’s are used to seal and to prevent the ingres of water and dirt which would cause havoc with expensive bearings and splines, various greases are used depending on the application.

I couldn’t find the switch on Simon’s Convoy shop the other day, I don’t mind purchasing one and trying it out, I have plenty of grease.

The testing of the light would have to follow real life conditions if possible but accelerated to save time, in water and out, in water and out, back in the house where it’s warm, in the fridge, back outside, switched on for a while. Back home, in the water again, hydrostatic tests - varying the depth of water to arm’s length or so.

In reality it may not be subjected to such extreme conditions but most product testing is done to failure which will give the parameters for normal every day use.

When you’re designing a crane etc its called the factor of safety, max capacity before failure( ultimate tensile strength) / working stress = factor of safety.

Factors of safety ( low) industrial engineers, high ( high) member’s of the public.

●●●●The above is straightforward, testing a flashlight seal is very simple indeed. ●●●

Put it through a cycle but accelerate this over a shorter period, know one would want to wait a year or two for the result. Nearly all product testing is accomplished like this.

More than one switch or just the rubber boot would be needed just in case it does fail so the test can be continued.

Someone else can do it or I don’t mind, in reality it’s all very very simple!

Ordering anything from Simon is going to have to wait a week. There is a good reason though.

Convoy is expanding a bit and moving to a bigger factory so right now this is the home page of the Convoy store.

Ok

I'm still new on here got and carried away with the above, I'll just let you and Simon do it as you all know massively more about flashlights than I do.

Using the grease, just one idea.

I don’t think you got carried away at all. Have you seen how much I talk? :D. You put plenty of thought into what you had to say. This thread in particular is all about ideas. All are welcome and I appreciate yours. Keep them coming. BLF is a giant think-tank for the flashlight world. Not every idea will see production but tossing all these different ideas around and seeing so many different perspectives is one of the main reasons I enjoy this forum so much. :beer: :beer: I had those mugs filled at Fuggles just for you. :wink: Cheers!

1 Thank

Okay so I finally broke down tonight and decided that I had to take one of these metal switches apart to fully understand all the ideas that were presented here and the tolerances involved and ideas to solve the not-quite-waterproof design. I now understand why just extending the flare/lip of the rubber boot under the plunger and against the flange/shelf isn’t enough by itself. I think I have a pretty solid idea on how to make the whole thing work but I’m not great at describing what I am picturing. I’m going to try to model it or draw it. It’s really unfortunate that Simon didn’t have a CAD model for me on this one. I was a CAD designer for over 15 years so it’s much easier for me to visualize things in that format. What I have in mind is a combination of ideas and examples/pictures posted here. I’ll try to work on that over the next few days but in the mean time keep the ideas rolling in. Thank you all for your input. This is brainstorming so there are no bad ideas… just ideas. More is always better. And I for the record Andrew, I do not consider myself to know more than you or anyone here. 50% of the people on this forum know 150% more than I will even know about flashlight building, modding, etc. I am just enjoying the ride and happy to be contributing what I can. I’ve honestly never been part of a forum like this before. I was just a lurker myself until less than a year ago. I was part of another flashlight forum when I first got into this a few years ago. They were not as friendly and helpful as this community and after being trolled to death by flashlight snobs just for trying to offer another perspective on a few things I walked away in disgust. But the flashlight bug bit me again and this time I found a much happier home here among thinking people willing to share ideas and not just opinions. Cheers to BLF! :beer: :beer: :beer:

1 Thank

I haven’t been back on this topic for a while but I started a poll that concerns the metal switch so I figure I should link it here.
It’s about whether people would prefer a black stainless switch or standard stainless switch if/when the clear anodized S2+ comes out.
My thought’s are the black metal switch would look good against the bare aluminum look in combination with the black clip.
The black switch will be PVD coated and should be very durable.
There’s also a selection for those who prefer a standard rubber boot.
Keep in mind Simon made the internal seal clear now so you can still do a light up tail switch with the metal button and it looks awesome IMO.

If you want to cast your vote, the poll is here:

Is the clear internal seal will be available to buy separately for the replacement of early black ones? I want to build lighted switch in my S2+ Red triple.

Simon sent me a few hundred of them at no charge just to help out BLF members and I’ve been sending them out but I can only ship within the US because of shipping costs. Djozz offered to help distribute in Europe so I had Simon send a bunch to him too but they just shipped today. I don’t know if shipping is reasonable from Amsterdam to Hungary but you could ask. If that won’t work maybe I could have Simon keep some around at his store. I don’t know if he’d want to ship just the clear seals but if he has them I’m sure he’d have no problem throwing a few in if you’re ordering anything else from his store.

I definietly will order an L6 so I think the rubber can fit in somewhere the L6’s box :slight_smile:

LOL. Ya think so? :student:

First post here on BLF. I’ve been on a few other forums in the past (CPF and EDCF with the same user name), but have been taking great advantage of the lights people here have put together and offered through banggood and gearbest. I want to basically build a BLF X6 in a Convoy S2+ blue host, but the host I picked up has the black switch seal. Is there a place I can buy the clear ones now, or could I purchase one from you? I have no problem sending a few bucks to cover shipping. I’m in the USA.

Thanks for your help!

Simon sells the clear covers online or I have 100 of them sitting here if you want them quicker.

The issue is the metal switch is not that easy to remove, I think it is glued down.

The lighted tailcap will slightly glow threw the metal switch though, looks neat actually.

Just to make sure we’re talking about the same thing, I’m looking for the a clear version of the little black boot that’s part of the “piston” portion of the metal switch. Is that what you and Simon have available? It doesn’t look like any glue is involved for the little boot.

Otherwise, I saw a post here that someone had used a rubber glove instead of the black boot, but I’d be afraid it would tear over time.

Thanks for the reply!

The metal switch is threaded in, but the center section with the black rubber “gasket” on the bottom will just push out once the switch board is out of the way. Its got a bit of resistance to it due to the nylon bushing between the two pieces, but its not much. So you can swap that black rubber bit for a clear one very easily.

Ah, got you, I thought you were talking about the whole switch cover.

I am actually kind curious about this myself, I have not taken mine apart yet but I got them from fast tech and assume they have the black boot.

I believe you are the one inspiring my build! Have you seen a clear version of the gasket?

I thought I saw somewhere here that they were moving to the clear for future builds, but I’m not sure where I saw that. Mine came as part of a secret santa gift on another forum, but had the black gasket too.

There is no glue involved in the part you’re talking about. It is indeed trickier to make the light shine through in the ring of the metal switch but it sure does look cool. Emarkd did several in multiple colors and they look awesome. I don’t know if TA has the clear seals or if he’s talking about clear switch boots. I’m guessing that’s the case because I’ve never seen a listing for the clear seals for the piston part of the S2+ metal switch but I could have missed it. I still have a bunch of the clear “piston seals” you are talking about so either way we have you covered. TA can clarify or just PM me your address and how many you need.

Awesome! PM Incoming!

Like this, yes?

So yes. They work fine for the most part, but if you’re doing lighted tails you’ll have to use a lighted switch board, not the ring daughterboard that rides above the switch. There’s not enough room in the tail for the ring and the boot.