I guess if you do the white lettering, I will have to do the “dirt mod”…
I suspect it isn’t related to the colour of the anodizing. I work outdoors and my gear gets rather dirty at times, generally just dirt but fuel and oils aren’t uncommon. The lettering will clean up with alcohol but still doesn’t look like its new.
I thought we were talking about a desert or coyote mat tan color like that AR. Is there any other way to get those colors without Cerakote?
That is what we’re talking about. I certainly believe we can accomplish that on the S2. Just waiting on the sample from Simon. All the Cerakote talk was mostly brought up to discuss different colors and show examples. It’s a great option but it is not a budget option and not what we are doing on this light. I’m confident that Simon will come up with a proper anodizing solution. I was referencing the blaze orange/safety orange color when I said it might be difficult to do short of Cerakote. The tan S2 is happening. In case you haven’t noticed getting completely off track is very BLF. 
n10sivern has a thread offering custom Cerakote paint jobs on lights; basically, if the light has a Cerakote finish, it looks like tit would more than double the cost of the light.
Thanks for that link. I just may try and get in touch with him. Considering he dis-assembles, re-assembles, and tests the light, 20 to 25 bucks isn’t bad at all. Was thinking Simon could have it done a whole lot cheaper coating a few hundred blank tubes at a time. Labor costs in China and all, I’d be surprised if it added more than 5 dollars to the cost of each light.
I’m sure whatever Simon comes up with will be super nice.
Cerakoting is cool for sure but that would be introducing an entirely new process for them to figure out, troubleshoot, etc. and at least for this color I just don’t think it’s necessary. I’m hoping to get a few emails from Simon later this evening. If there is any more to add I certainly will.
I am so looking forward to the tan coloured S2+ and hope it’s successful enough for Simon to add it to the rest of the convoy line.
In regards to the complaints about the S8, the one common thread (and my only complaint) is the sharp edges on the bezel. I need to carry it in a holster to be sure it doesn’t rip my pocket. That said, I really like the style otherwise.
Me too! This is the most excited I’ve been about a new Convoy since the L2. Thanks for the additional S8 comment. Thanks to all this feedback I now know all of the shortcomings of the S8 without ever having held one. Wight took me to school and others chimed in too. BLF is one of the few places I’ve actually seen the “open door policy” put to good use. My uneducated thoughts on the S8 were shot down quite properly and I appreciate that. It’s likely Simon would have told me much of the same but I’d rather hear it here first. I prefer to waste as little of Simon’s time as possible. Additional conversation about redesigning the S8 should be saved for another thread and another time. If this color comes out well it could be extended to other lines.
Simon is happy about all the feedback. He says he may try both the black and white logos on a few samples to see how they come out. There’s also a good possibility we will be getting AR coated glass on this one. That is ummm…if he can find it. 
He had a bunch produced for the S2+ just before they moved to the new factory so it’s in a box somewhere. LOL
We’re also going back and forth a bit about the driver. I can’t make any promises yet but if I have my way this may be the very first Convoy to come stock with moonlight mode. :D.
Woot on the moonlight mode! Just eliminating the blinky modes would be good, but moonlight is awesome.
A four mode, no strobe (or hidden like Eagle Eye) is about the most useful in my opinion. Good spread of levels and battery life is what is important…
If you drop it in the desert you won’t be able to find it. :–5
I just wanted to add my input on the S8. While I generally prefer the S2, I don’t personally find that the fins or front bezel sharp at all. I find the knurling much grippier than the S2 or S2+. I also find that the fins do noticeably work to shed heat better than the S2.
I turned mine into a triple XP-L Hi with a FET+1. I tried the pill in both the S8 and S2. The S8 does much better with the heat.
The thing I don’t like about the S8 is the clip. I find it useless. If the S8 were upgraded so that the deep carry clip could work, then I would prefer it over the S2 or S2+.
They all need square threads. Any other must be shunned.
Absolutely agreed.
Did they have 2 colors by chance? I’ve seen some that do look very yellow/gold and some that look more desert/tan-ish, like this F12:
If the new S2+ is anything like the color above, I’m in!
I’d also agree that the clip, switch, and any lettering would look best in black. 
I have always wondered what is the attraction of square threads?
Why are they better?
Strength. Square threads allow you to crank down harder to enhance waterproofing & improve/restore electrical connection. Likewise when removing stuck parts. Tapered threads (especially in Al) have a tendency to fail at high torque loads.
Mass. Contrary to sales pitch, useful LED flashlights get Quite Hot!!. Every atom of Al you can leave attached is one more thermal via to pass all that “cool LED” heat into your hand.
Service Life. In essence, tapered threads are “pre-worn”.
In essence, tapered threads are for wood screws, square threads are for machined threaded connections like flashlights.
(I’d like to add “of a common diameter and pitch” to tarver’s maxim, the better to Lego parts)
I’d be happy with that color and finish also, but I’m in regardless.