Convoy S2+ Desert Tan Available Now!

A bit off-topic, but may I ask Toykeeper, what do you create the UI flowcharts with? Visio, Illustrator, or some other such software? In any case, they are very well done imho. I have been using Visio recently and your UI graphics catch my eye whenever I see one.

Inkscape.

[offtopic on]

E-switch, tact switch, tact button :slight_smile:

Just add a thermoresistor to a standard x*AMC7135 driver, make 2 cuts and solder 2 wires. Thermoresistor is not needed if you dont want use thermocontrol.

The layout turns out so:

Pin 2 - 2 AMC
Pin 5 - 1 AMC
Pin 6 - all other AMCs

This allows you to turn on any number of AMC on modes above 350 mA and to get rid of the PWM. On modes below 350 mA used PWM from 1 AMC on pin 5. Frequency of PWM now is 9.6 kHz.

This layout is considered “standard” for most firmwares from Fonarevka.ru.

I think that the firmware like Bistro, Babka and similar will work on such a modified driver with a minimum of code alterations. I hope Toykeeper interested in this modification the driver. Ready to work as a tester :slight_smile:

[offtopic off]

Can’t wait new Convoy to swap driver and make exellent flashlight :wink:

^ it already is an excellent flashlight. Not everyone wants an automated step down!

Is the code available? I looked at the thread but I only saw .hex files, no sources.

(BTW, for staying sort of on topic, it might be better to discuss this in the firmware thread linked in my signature)

Automated stepdown is an option. You dont need to activate it.

The main feature is the higher efficiency on no PWM. And full customisation, of course :wink:

Assembler only.

Main idea is modify your software for this modified hardware. 20-30 lines of code, nothing more. And ask Convoy to modify its drivers like this. Convoy 2.0. Better efficiency, no PWM. They just need to modify PCB of driver. And this new driver will be suitable for flashlights with a tact button too.

I’m really interested in this light, but I can’t decide which configuration would be better for my use case. 8*7135 seems nice, since I could always use one of the 50% mode groups, but how is the efficiency? Is it much worse and a 4*7135 light would be better if I only rarely want to use the higher modes? As far as I know, the low modes would be even lower with 4*7135, but is the mode spacing somehow optimized for a specific configuration?

All my Convoys S2+ now have a 8*7135 driver, and I only have another light with 4*7135 driver.
Despite the lights have different characteristics (reflectors, LED tints, and the one with 4*7135 has a TIR lens) there is a significant difference in terms of luminosity between a light with 4 or 8 chips.
Please see here:
Left - 4*7135 on 100% with XML2 T6-3B (neutral white) and TIR lens // Right - Convoy S2+ on 100% with XML2 U2-1A (cool white) and Orange peel reflector

The one with 4 chips - even with the mentioned characterists - produces, in my perspective, a lot less luminosity, mainly in higher levels. The difference on the lowest modes doesn’t seem to bee huge, althought the lowest mode (0,1%) is bit lower. The TIR lens has influence on this, of course-

Also, using it in the mode 8 of biscotti, the higher mode (50) is very acceptable, especially for indoor use or outside where not so much light might be needed. If you need more light, using it at 100 will be better.

I guess the best thing to do is to assess your needs for a flashlight use.
In any case, what I can tell is that having a 8*7135 you can always dim the amount of light through the modes available. If you have a 4*7135, and you want more light…you can’t configure it to have more luminous output (except if transforming with the driver).

Hope it helps! :+1:

After hearing lots of accounts of the 8*7135 lights becoming very hot in the hand, I was hesitant to order one for myself. I had read the charts comparing the lumens for the different lights (4**, 6**, 8*) and ultimately decided that the 8*7135 was the best choice. Setting mine up so that I had 1, 10, 35, 100 works very well for me.

The 35% might seem like a huge stepdown from 100% but in reality it puts out a very usable amount of light. I still have the option to go 100% when showing off or needing just a bit more light, but the 35% (and frankly 10%) are the most usable levels for me.

With the new firmware you can also get 50% is you need a little more light than the 35% provides.

I hope whatever decision you make, it works for you.

hi all does the S2+ desert tan on Simon’s store has lighted metal tailcap?

Mine does not have a lighted tailcap. I haven’t seen that as an option.

Am I the only one hwo thinks that 8x7135 is not good solution for tube light without step down timer or thermal control?
Do not forget that you have 1000 lumens only when battery is full charged. 15 minutes later you have around 700 lumens.

Me too, but just in case I give it away like a gift or for family members. After I nearly burned my hand with Convoy S2+ 8x7135 in max brightness for about 1/2 hr, I decided to remove some 7135 chips, just left 4x7135/flashlight for my family members and gift set.

Safety first for them.

It’s not an issue for anyone with the common sense to lower the brightness when it gets too warm. As a light painting artist, having a step down during a long exposure would ruin a photo. BTW the S2+ is more around 850 lumens at 30secs.

Pretty much. Responsibility is key if you’re handing high-power li-ion flashlights (not just tube lights), you can’t expect the machine to do your work for you.

Good news - my Desert Tan S2+ arrived today.
Bad news - it’s my Fathers Day present and that isn’t for a few weeks.

I tested it though, just to make sure it works - the strobe is * insane! :sunglasses:

i see, thanks.

Isn’t the 7135 supposed to maintain constant-current, so you don’t lose brightness as the voltage drops?

I understand it only can do this while the battery voltage is higher than the forward voltage needed by the LED (plus any other voltage losses in the circuit). But, doesn’t that voltage drop occur well after 15 minutes?

I done heating up test with 3,5A 10x7135 C8 and after 15 minutes there was only 3,8V in the freshly charged 2500mAh battery. So it depends on capacity too.