I had the 3A initially - pure white on my white ceiling, I was quite pleased with the tint.
Received my 4C today - pure vanilla on my white ceiling - VERY pleasing to the eye.
4C is not yellow, it is vanilla white.
I’m a neutral tint snob - but this 4C is really hitting the sweet spot.
Simon has made some quality choices for emitter bins.
Just to follow up, I posted this image in another thread, but thought it illustrates what I was trying to say.
These are the same image, just using different white-balance. (Oh, and I think I mislabeled the “3A” as a “3C”.
WalkIntoTheLight, when you take beam shots like this, how far away from the wall do you typically hold the light?
Those were shone on the ceiling (it’s white), from about 6-8 feet away. It wasn’t really to show a beam profile, just the tint differences. But it is funny to see how horrible the beam profile from a four D-cell incandescent maglite is, though. Funny how I used to think it was okay, back when that was the norm.
Not really what i would call acceptable.
Not trying to bash or anything but i am used on better fit and finish from Convoy. After all i have 13 Convoy lights at the moment and none of the lights (while they where in stock form) failed me. This is not a big deal for me but hey it could be better.
This is the desert tan version bought directly from the Convoy Aliexpress store.
Anyone knows how to remove the metal tailcap, the outer rings is glued?
It’s removable, I remember seeing posts about disassembling it. It’s just an awkward shape to grip if you don’t have the right tools
Not sure about the metal button, but on some lights the switch retaining ring is reverse-threaded. Try checking both ways in case the button assembly is reversed.
It probably isn’t, but it’s at least something to try on sticky parts.
I’m going to disagree with the characterization of 3A as a preferred tint for snobs. my understanding is that 3C (aka below the Black body line) avoids the cat piss green better then 3A and is (or was) the preferred tint. The larger trend is I believe that 4C is fast becoming the preferred tint for non Nichia snob applications.
Nope, that’s backward.
I think so.
haha yeah that really got me, the retaining ring on my S2+ is reverse threaded i found it the hard way. 
It’s not always guaranteed that a “good” A/D tint bin will give you good results. Here’s an example from an Olight S10R III with Luminus SST-40 emitter. Judging by the total average tint, it falls near the 1C/1D border at 0,3176x 0,3347y, but in actuality the result is something totally different: warmer much greener and with a horrible shift to cool purple on the spill. Of course the manufacturer reports the bin with a bare led integrated rather than with a reflector.
Overlaid on the Cree binning chart:
Wow. I knew that could happen in abstract, but overlaying it on the Cree tint bin chart really brought the true effect home to me.
Another tidbit of knowledge. Thanks, maukka :+1:
Yeah, that looks pretty extreme. I’ve noticed that the purple spill is a problem in most of my cool-white lights. (Another reason I favor neutral white.)
Well I certainly cherry picked the example. It’s the worst I’ve come across. Still, the difference between integrated tint and hotspot is significant. Here’s a comparison between the S10R III and a S1R. The spill is truly purple on the S10R III.
Snow already in Finland?
It’s no coincidence that an Olight S10 lens is the one I use to demonstrate the downsides of AR coating. Here’s an Olight S10 AR-coated lens next to a plain piece of glass:
I put a 3D tint emitter into it, and the result was the ugliest green I’ve ever seen in a flashlight. It also had a pronounced blue/purple ring around the outer edge of the spill.
By simply swapping in the plain glass, the beam became dramatically better.
Optics can seriously mess with tint, in much the same way that a prism can turn sunlight into a rainbow.
I think it must depend on the quality of the coating. For example, none of my camera lens filters (such as the clear protection filters) show any color shifts. Photographers wouldn’t put up with that.
Olight must be using some poor coatings.
Yes, not all AR coating does this. Olight’s was just particularly bad.
I’m not sure, but I think they may have fixed it since then. And on their newer S-series lights, it’s not an issue because there is no glass at all — just a bare plastic optic. The optic still shows a bit of Cree rainbow, but it’s nowhere near as bad as it was on older models.
Regardless, I’m mostly just agreeing with maukka. The emitter itself is only part of the equation. Other factors affect tint too.