You are right about the S2. It uses the same size shallow reflector as the S3, so it doesn’t need a spacer. I like how the S2 has a bigger pill than the S3 or S2. It still gets hot quickly when pushing the amps, even with the bigger pill.
So the spacer has to be the inner diameter of the head and the length of the reflector-length of carclo.
I have somewhere an s8 laying in my todo box, I should have a look on it.
Let us know what you find with the s8. I have one on order and I’d love to put a triple in it!
Just took a look on the s8 and the reflector is around 18.7mm and the lens is 1.5mm. A 20mm aluround fits in with a little air around.
I have half a meter of some alurounds laying around but I have not found a way to cut it even, I tried different saws but all had a very rough surface and grinding it even is hard. It also don’t fits in my drill which accepts just 16mm….maybe I will drill it first put a screw through the hole and put this in a drill for sanding, I have that seen here somewhere…
Did you coat the whole cylinder with thermal paste and put it in the head or did yours fitted perfect?
Thanks for the info, I can’t wait to get my s8 so I can get started on it!
I find the hardest part of making heat-sinks this way is getting the pill surface parallel to the PCB surface.
I use a spring steel clamp as a guide for my hacksaw.
After the cut I slide the clamp back just a bit and file, the spring has enough tension that it doesn’t move and the steel is much harder than copper, it’s easy to tell what the file’s running across.
If I need to file the diameter smaller I move the spring back another 1-2mm and slowly file around with a small file until it fits snug in the brass pill. I don’t know how O-L does this stuff by hand, all those Mags filed by hand!
I didn’t use any thermal compound on the sink, it just transfers the heat to the pill. I used Artic Silver on the pill threads.
The body of the S6 gets hot within seconds on high (6A) so it seems to be working well.
Yes, the S2+ seems more suitable for this with the longer pill (and suits my taste better anyways).
I've just decided to build a Convoy S-series & Triple Nichia light as I noticed I already have all the necessary components for this. Nothing fancy, as I'm not going to invest in the newest leds on top quality star.
Will use the Kaidomain 219A parallel triple and Banggood S2+ host(or was it from a light i tore apart, S2+ anyway):
http://www.kaidomain.com/product/Details.S022933
I have yet to decide on the driver, but as the star might not be very good thermally, I might not want more than 3 amps. 1.4 could be enough.
There's one little problem: Even this configuration is not a direct drop in. The KD kit is even shorter than the S2+ shorty reflector, and the pill just does not thread deep enough, and this is before trimming the star or removing the lip. It seems to barely go deep enough to slightly press on the LED star in the stock configuration. Spacer rings on the very front are not an option, so I considered doing something similar to what's already being done in this thread. But that sounds like a lot of work(and heavier weight while still not thermally ideal) and I thought about another problem on this host: my longer batteries are a very tight fit in S2+. So why not fix these at once?
The solution might be not to add metal but to remove some. What if the pill was turned down to remove the threads from the front half? The result would look like pretty much the same as what people have done by adding metal in front of their short pills. But this would go deeper into the head and not only make the triple and TIR sit tight, but at the same time the battery compartment would be extended. The planned config of triple-219 star and TIR optic is about 7 mm, while the original lens, reflector, plastic spacer and XML2 star are about 14 mm. The increase of 7 mm just might be too much, but in that case I'll also upgrade the spring on the driver board.
I'll also remove the "lip" from the front end of the pill to make the star fit unless I figure how to trim the star. This is irrelevant though, as either option will produce the same final length.
I will report back with photos in a couple of days(I'm far away from my workshop now) when I've tried this and succeeded. 
Oh, and I don't have a lathe in there either, so I'm actually going to do this manually.
Yup this method works.
I used this technique in modding my S2+ mini. I used a handfile to remove the top portion of threads on the pill so no spacer was needed.
The mod worked great. Enlarging the battery compartment allowed the 18350 size light to hold a much larger 18500 size cell without any modifications to the outside of the light.
Thank you! After looking at your triple XPL thread- nice mod over there - this approach feels like an even better idea.
It also just became more complicated as I'm gonna have to make a choice. I now have two candidates for the transplant, as I also got an S2+ mini that would really benefit from 18500 IMR capability. I've been EDC'ing this mini lately so I could see the benefit of higher capacity in such a compact little tube.
what is the output of 219B when it's 1.5A on each. I only found some data on 219A.
This djozz post seems to cover that: testing two of KD's new Nichia 219b leds (4500K'92CRI' and 5500K)
ECHO
Thanks, 300lm @1.5A
yes
I like this build alot! Great work. Thanks for the pics too. The Convoy is such a great host for the $$.
OP did you ever get beam shots
& a white wall shot too ?
Looking at the graph it is 340lumen at 1.5A not 300lumen.
let’s see this graph
I will take some tonight for you.
yes.any beamshots available?:)modes?output?very nice really!