Hum, Crescendo in e-switch light? Which one if I may ask?
[quote=Correllux]
It doesn’t seem all that popular, but I think it is a nice compromise between the S2+ and the C8. Simon has added some new emitters for that model as well, an osram and an sst-40. It should be a good host for trying out different emitters as well, but I think it has a shelf like the C8 rather than the pill of the S2+
I recently got one with an XPL-HI in 4000k and really like it as is.
captainkirk
The M1 is not as popular, I feel, only because it’s not as well known as the S2+ or C8. Because merits are something that host does not lack at all. It’s every bit as solidly built and water resistant as those two, the cooling fins on it are plentiful, beefy and pretty deep, and the reflector gives you plenty of options on how you want your beam to be like, from a large-die flooder to a compact thrower with an SST20 or Osram. It’s not quite as pocketable as the S2+ but it’s much more comfortable to carry than the C8 and C8. If you aren’t gaga over tube lights and carried a “P60 host” style torch in the past without minding its size, the M1 competes toe-to-toe with the S2.
I’ll tell you guys what does utilise the Osram CSLPM1-TG emitter well from Convoy is the M21A. Slightly bigger than the C8 with 21700 tube. But nice deep reflector that keeps the bean fairly tight. For the $28au I paid it’s a fine light for hunting. No factory tailcap remote switches but they can be made if you order a spare tail cap.
S2 series become popular because it got a lot of it’s spare parts available and it’s pretty cheap. Perfect for first and everyday flashlight… after that you know what to looks for other model that suit your need 
Only the body is bigger - the M21A is functionally a C8+ that can take 21700 cells.
Regarding lighted tailswitch for Convoy S2, I think I’ve ordered a rarer Convoy S2 clear/silver that comes with lighted tailswitch.
IIRC, the Convoy S2+ clear/silver might be the only color that can have rubber button or metallic tailswitch.
Although right now, I see that Convoy has listed “lighted metallic tailswitch” for Convoy S2+ = I’m not very sure if these lighted metallic tailswitch can be used only for the rubber-boot type of tailswitch or only for the metallic tailswitch (like the colored/sand S2+)?
Jason already gave the answer. It depends what you want. All of mine are different. Different powered drivers, different LEDs and I’m still testing different optics in them. I love the S2 format because they’re relatively cheap and so easy to make changes. For an all rounder, I really like the Nichia 219b 4500k. But you’d have to install that yourself as Simon doesn’t sell them.
I just took delivery of a Noctigon KR1 with the CSLPM1.TG. It’s a great pocket sized format. I’m going to install a CSLNM1.TG in an S2 but my gut feeling is it won’t perform as well because of the smaller reflector, as you already found. But it’s still fun. 
Personally, I prefer the metal tail buttons but that’s all it is - a personal preference. As someone else said, in the S2s, the underlying switch is the same.
S2 or S2+? Because I have the feeling that the Osram LEDs wouldn’t be too shabby on an S2, what with the deeper reflector. Could make for a decent pocket thrower!
S2+, sorry. I shorten it and I guess I shouldn’t to avoid confusion. :+1:
The plain ol’ come-with default metal switch does have a translucent ring, that if you stick LEDs on the switch board to light up, some light will sneak through that ring to appear lit.
I did buy a few of the bare boards with blue LEDs to try it, but never got very far.
Something like these but I forgot where I actually got mine from.
The old S2 has the deeper OP reflector by default, with a 7mm hole. The SMO reflector for the S2 has a 5mm hole.
As far as I can tell, Simon doesn’t stock a compatible centering ring/gasket for this reflector.
Kaidomain has some of the butterfly style ones for a 5mm hole, but due to the shape of the bottom of this reflector I don’t know if it would work properly.
I’m sure some of you guys have used that reflector before, how did you do it?
Oops, my mistake. I only have one Crescendo and it's a cheapie host with a clicky that I got from a buddy. I'm not real fond of the ramping on it compared to more recent firmware so it basically just gets dusted off every now and then. I looked up TK's code/info and looks like it's clicky-only anyway. :) I'm a long, long way off from being proficient but one day I'd really like to be able to flash firmware and make tweaks.
Is the biscotti firmware worth it? I’m interested in the Samsung emitter but its not offered in that combination.
Also is there any reason not to pick the highest amp driver offered?
The 12 group version of the FET driver is the same is biscotti, no?
I have a bunch of both types of lights and honestly can’t tell the difference. I saw a comment that the 4-mode was slightly different for the FET driver but I don’t have one myself:
Nice beam on the light bit of a flood/throw combo makes an excellent bike light.
There are a few complains that the mode group sometimes resets itself to the first group. But on the other hand with early Biscotti drivers there were cases of the mode memory option being stuck (that should be solved now).
The problem I have is if I turn it off on one mode, when I turn it on again it will be on the next mode. Not the worst problem someone can have.
It's ok. Not a flashy firmware (no pun intended) but it's practical and gives you several nice options to simplify or hide modes you don't want. I don't have the newest but all of my Biscotti are the second gen after the bugs were fixed - no problems from any of them and some have a lot of use on them. Take a look at his mode chart and if you see one or two modes that suit your needs, go for it. There are lots of other 17mm drivers that you can try out later if you feel like swapping and can handle some basic soldering. Choosing current just depends on your balance of a little more lumens vs. a little more or less battery run time. The x8 will cause the light to get pretty hot after a little bit where the x6 will heat up slower and the lower current options don't really get hot even after running a long time. Again with the soldering iron, you can very easily remove or replace/add those little 7135 chips if you want to experiment, or just add another driver to your order. Simon doesn't amp up the 7135 drivers so even the x8 is safe for the emitter over the long haul (you can elsewhere buy some that considerably increase the current, which is nice for some emitters and can really overdrive the usual ones if you want and if it's not a bad idea to do it). For the knock-around S2+ I like the x6 the best. Given as gifts or to those who don't know about lithium cells or hot lights, or maybe around kids that might figure out the mode groups, a x4 is a safe choice. The x3 was standard for his UV option because those emitters can't handle the same higher currents very well, depending.
Possible short to ground somewhere? Damage or wear on the tail thread anodizing? Metal shaving or schmoo in the switch?