If I 1) don’t want to change temps because I already know my preference and 2) don’t want it to look different than the S21D 4500K, there’s no logical reason for me to purchase one.
. nice question. I have simply decided to have one of each.:
–219b 4500K in the S21D,
–519a 5000k in the Wurkkos FC11 and also 3500K in the Convoy H1
-GT FC40 4000K in Convoy S11,
-B35AM — I think I will now order either in the S11 or M21B.
For under $150, I will be able to answer that for myself! Only missing E21a but I’m not that compulsive, and I think the E21a ship last left the dock a couple of years ago.
I hesitate very much to say any LED has “better” tint than any other because this is (obviously) personal preference. No right or wrong. I think that’s one reason why this is such a fun hobby: all the lights are different, all have pluses and minuses.
Re. FC40 vs BAM: 2 very different LEDs. FC40 4500k leans towards 519a 4500k as being more sunset-yellow, whereas BAM leans towards 219b 4500k as being more rosy. (Nothing I have equals the rosy/magenta tint of 219b 4500k, or make colors pop like it. But again that does not mean it’s the most beautiful or best for everyone.)
Besides tint, FC40 @ ~ 2200 lm is twice the output of BAM ~1100 lm. In same host, Convoy M21B, FC40 is medium floody/throwy whereas BAM being a smaller LED is very throwy. These last two parameters make FC40 “better” as EDC, especially for muggles. Of course BAM has the highest Ra and R9 rating I’ve seen, but that’s important only to “collectors.” All IMvHO.
I don’t think anyone knows….Chinese manufacturer and they haven’t made much of anything available (not publicly anyway). You might read through the initial thread when rngwn discovered them a few years back (and a couple others linked). I don’t know if anyone has been able to get a data sheet or any solid info about binning/groups. If Simon was able to, it might be buried in his main thread here.
When I got my first GT-FC40 light, I knew I had struck gold when during photo processing, I had a some difficulty telling which shot is GT-FC40 and which is 219b 4500k, for the 2 pictures on the left side. (Same cannot be said of the green SST20 and extreme green Cree XHP35-HI.)
Once I knew to look for certain clues, then it’s easier. In some way, I actually prefer the color rendering of GT-FC40.
At this level of Nichia vs GT-FC40, IMHO they are all different from each other, not necessarily any one is better. All excellent and I am thankful for Convoy’s 30 buck a light policy that makes buying them so easy.
I’m hoping once more of these get into users’ hands that someone rips one open and posts pics of the driver. I’m really curious how he’s managed it to be an 8A buck driver and dual channel…
Scoped out the S21D for awhile for it’s CC driver, but for myself I always like ramping output vs. stepped….and for my Maglite brother, he needs the USB-C
The 21F seems to fit needs the best for a “mid-lumen” around-the-house light. I have others for bigger output/throw. Also, can’t dismiss the utility of….and experimenting with….ramping tint.
Mid-lumen around the house, and you already got other lights with more output - you got it exactly. I know many people don’t always start with “Turbo” like me and S21F would be fine, but just thought I should “categorize” the 2 lights accordingly. With ramping output and ramping CCT, S21F sure is a fun light and the USB-C charging means I will use it more than S21D.
For better central brightness in S21F, you could switch the optic to 10 Bead or 30 Bead and see if you like that better. In actual use I don’t see severe artifact that would bother me with 10 Bead, though I should mention 60 Bead has the most beautiful (most rosy) and homogenous field.
IMHO, S21D maintains brightness at least partly, maybe wholly (?), because it has this “crazy aggressive” thermal regulation that keeps the light very hot, and hence bright. It runs about 10 C higher than S21F at any given point during simultaneous run-time check. For example 50 C external with S21D vs 40 C external with S21F.
The star of the show is the LED, and here on S21F’s 5700k end (measured 5000k) we have quite a doozy . Beam color is somewhere between the extreme rosy tint of 219b 4500k and the sunset-yellow tint of 519a 4500k. It is “creamy” for lack of a better word, meaning off white but not too yellow like 519a.
This comparison is with another 5000k LED, Nichia 219c 5000k in my Wurkkos TS21. 219c 5000k is a great example of a “daylight neutral” LED and that’s why I like it. In comparison, 219c’s color is cold/white-blue whereas 519a 5000k is warm/creamy golden. Not one is better than the other; they are just different. Although I would admit I much prefer 519a.
Secret divulged: That surface of the palm tree is a great way to quickly check the LED’s tint. 219c 5000k turns its color more greyish, 519a shows shades of brown bark.
I have trouble believing the 519A photo is truly around 5000K–it appears much warmer than that. Could you compare the two lights on a white wall, not scenery?