Hi, good questions but you seem to have two requirements that no single light could meet. No green means Nichia 219b 4500k as a prime example (every LED I have looks too green compared to it). No heat and sustained brightness means you need a second light that’s larger and has a brighter LED.
There will be multiple lights that meet your requirement but please check my answers and discussion in the “4 lights I would buy” post in my signature click here: number 1 (Convoy S21D with Nichia 219b 4500k) and number 2a (Convoy M21F or M21E with Getian GT-FC40 4500k).
The beautiful thing here is both lights together, being Convoy, will meet your budget :+1: . Also, if you want high lumen and no heat, stay away from small light (Wurkkos TS25). Among my most favorite lights are 2 Wurkkos (TS30S and TS32) but size is everything here and TS25 is not a good choice.
thanks for ur answer im not bothered with the heat if it can sustain (idk what would a sane requiment maybe 800lumen? ) and im not really sure about anything besides its need to fit in my pocket. needs to able to be bright af and it needs to render some gorgeous colors in the woods
Ok got it third requirement bright af LOL. Kidding aside, I can’t emphasize enough that no single light meets all requirements. No green means one light (Convoy S21D), all around light means second light (M21F or M21E), and bright af means third light: Wurkkos TS30 with SBT90.2 , with 4000 lm and 1 km throw. This is 2b in same post in my signature.
I hope this helps. There is a reason many of us have so many lights. One reason is we are crazy people or hobbyists, but the other important reason is beam color, beam profile, heat, sustained brightness, etc. are all different.
In all seriousness, if you are going to pin me down for one light, it would be either all-arounder Convoy M21E with GT-FC40 4500k and Wurkkos TS30 if super-brightness is key, for both hobbyists and muggles. TS30S is an absolutely awesome light and is “bright af” both initial and sustained but of course not a shining example of color accuracy, AND it’s on the green side (which I don’t care about as much in throwers).
I second M21E GT-FC40 along with M21F GT-FC40 and Pioneman K36 XHP70.3 5000K. D4K can only compete with S21D if you add boost driver, but is twice the price. Fireflies E07X Pro meets most of your requirements, but is twice your budget.
Apparently Simon had the new S21F (new S21D) for sale before temporarily closing the shop down for Chinese New Years. I believe the listing should be up at the end of Jan, beginning of Feb when the new years is over.
I recall a post where Simon said something to the effect that he had never been so tired as this year due to the increase in demand of flashlights from Ukraine. Maybe he has plenty of S21F ready and is just stalling for time to recover?
Kidding aside Chinese New Year is huge in East Asia and I am not surprised at all he has slowed down. It’s merely two weeks from now.
I am going to order 219b 4500k for sure, and on the fence about 519a. The 519a 4500k (actual measured CCT ~4000k) I have is little too yellow/warm for my taste, so I am thinking 519a 5000k, like in my Wurkkos TS32.
I'm running a S2+ triple lol, it's not gonna throw no matter what I put in there. Might as well capitalize on the CRI and output, and hope for a nice homogeneous beam.
I've found that different Carclo optics have different levels of tint shift, and the trend is either nonexistent or counterintuitive. So far medium frosted fared the best, and wide frosted is absolute trash--it turns a 519A beam into something you expect out of a gen 2 XHP, just terribly yellow-green hotspot.
My only concern about 519a 5000k is the bin that’s in my Wurkkos TS32 is green at all level except Turbo. I expect/hope Simon’s version will be better.
Now that I think about it, definitely I will get it to prove the above.
Got some wall beamshots of the TS32 519A? It might be that you're unlucky and got a green bin. Another possibility is that different optics can alter tint in very different ways--perhaps the optic in TS21 is unsuitable for the 519A.
BTW, did you catch this graph, any comment? This is for 5700k but I see the same with my 519a 4500k. I could sit and watch y values drop like a stone with time. 219b does the same thing, just not as much.
My 519a 4500k also exhibits this change with heat and I actually wrote about it previously, not knowing such graph like the one above exists. But 519a 5000k is at a whole other level; Turbo versus lower output is like two different LED’s - pics coming.
Thanks for linking the other thread! I noticed that the TS32 has purple AR lens, which can alter tint significantly, up to +0.003. That might be the reason things look extra green. When I swapped a purple lens from an S2+ triple to a clear/uncoated one, it was a game changer.
Those are interesting graphs. If I'm reading correctly, it's saying that at 5700K, increasing current increases CCT while almost fixing duv, and increasing temperature lowers duv while almost preserving CCT. Very interesting. My first thought would be that the phosphor becomes saturated at high currents and lets through more blue, but in that case CCT and duv should change simultaneously. Another guess is that different colored phosphor particles have different efficiency vs current/temp profiles.
. Also, if you want high lumen and no heat, stay away from small light (Wurkkos TS25). Among my most favorite lights are 2 Wurkkos (TS30S and TS32) but size is everything here and TS25 is not a good choice.
and it needs to render some gorgeous colors in the woods
