Using DC-Fix solves it eventually! No need to produce a frosted glass lens, I guess.
OP triple lens? OP triple reflector, eventually, but not a lens. A glass lens can be clear or “frosted” (for the cases in discussion). An optic may be clear, frosted, single, triple, quad, multiple.
I can post output test results if I can get a hold of a few. Have a home for three if these can be made for sale in an Old Supfire M6 run 2S2P 150kcd and 11,000 OTF I predict.
Any plans yet? SFT-70 could be a much more reasonable alternative to SBT90.2. More range at slightly less maximum output (3000lm). I would love to see it in lights like S16 or 3X21A using boost drivers.
Any information what flux bin and chromaticity bin? For sure it’s 6500K. I will be happy to compare them with the datasheet.
Max output here will be as high as 4700lm according to my math assuming the same relative overdriving and efficacy at max as the SFT40. Notice, the SFT70 has no notches on the corners for the bond wire pads, and so the LESA is 7:3.86 or so. With a 1:1 scaling (likely won’t be this good) that’s a 1.8:1 ratio of lumens:amp vs SFT40 (mind you it’s at 6V and 3V respectively). Max ~70W.
Making a boost driver economically to push this emitter won’t be commonplace, if at all, unless we can mass produce a BLF design. 55W could deliver 93% of max output to keep things slightly more practical…
Yeah, Anduril is pretty complex...mostly just setting it up but then the basics are simple unless you have to go looking for features. I almost like Narsilm better but there are things I appreciate about Anduril 1/2. Actually the ramping firmware that Sofirn uses on their C8 lights is pretty nice, too, and much more simple (they are putting Anduril on many new lights now, though).
Smooth ramping is wonderful, and the quick easy reversing of ramp direction is very convenient and intuitive. The M3/M3C ramping could be improved and it would be a much better driver. The extras in these others like battery check and manual temperature adjustments, electronic switch lockout...those are very nice to have.
Simon,
You have to well spaced modes in L6 and L7, because current are not OK.
Add 100, and 50. Others downside, do not care.
And 100% should be adjustable. I prefer 3800 lumen instead of 5000 lumen on L7.
If you do not know, but L7 can not hold 5000 lumen. They drop immediately and within 2 minutes goes to 2300 lumen.
That is not good at all.