Convoy takes one step backward with S5

[plumrt]

Well I am enjoying buying a few flashlights lately. Last week a Convoy S5 came to me from banggood. It seemed OK the first day, but after a battery swap was losing contact, and it flickered periodically. Got worse, then totally quit after I tightened everything down.

Found the problem was tube-end to pill contact reach adjustment.
The threads have ALL been anodized in my light. It was locking out at the head. No fix, either the lens is loose or the tube contact is locked out. The online photos don’t jive with the light I’ve got. The web shows clear threads in head and tube. Only the tail and tube/tail are suppose to have anodizing.
The head thread is infinite, going most of the way to the lens. It does not provide pill a shoulder to lock in place at the correct depth for the tube end to make contact.
Current Convoy S5 from Convoy is a fail. (bangood is replacing it for me, very nice)

Bob

[Halo]

Shim it to make contact.
People like full anodized threads.

Is there an oring at the lens?

[WarHawk-AVG]

I love my S5, it was my first EDC and is in my truck now as my “dome light” as the dome light is kaput and I need light at night

Convoy S5 and UltraFire 602C

I built a few UF 602B 16340 lights to compliment my Convoy S5 here is the family Daddy and kiddo lights [image] I bought the standard UltraFire 602B host from FT, XP-G R5-1A 345LM 6700K, Nanjg 101-AK-A1 driver, and two different TIR, a 10 degree 5pack and a 15 degree and some XP-G to XM-L converter reflector adapters Body components [image] The 10 degree ones drop right in after removing the outer plastic, the 15 degree I had to file off the lip a bit for it to drop in Flashed the Nanjg …

[bikedude]

I’d guess the rim of the tube is supposed to make contact with the driver retainer ring.
You can remove anodizing with H2O2 NaOH 30-50% solution. Might wreck the threads if you overdo it and you need to mask of the rest of the tube with wax. Try it on some scrap alu (anodized ideally) first, usual rules for corrosive chemicals apply (eye protection etc).

EDIT: wrong chemical

[plumrt]

Yep, Halo, really like the anodized threads, but not “fixing” a new light. I didn’t buy it to mod or re-design. Yes, the o ring is in there the pressure of the pill tightened to snug the lens and reflector. So, now the tube will not reach the pill. I think after the first couple twists, the solder compressed ——— can you suggest how 2 shim it? Is solder the acceptable method for a light that gets as hot as this one with 7135*8 2.8amp?

Q for WarHawk, are your threads anodized? Does the pill in your S5 have a shoulder to tighten against? Was looking for solutions and had noticed your kiddies lights. Vry very cool. My kids are a little older and just give me a lo?ok.

Bob

[plumrt]

Is that peroxide?

[D10ten]

@bikedude

I’d guess the rim of the tube is supposed to make contact with the driver retainer ring.
You can remove anodizing with H2O2 30-50% solution. Might wreck the threads if you overdo it and you need to mask of the rest of the tube with wax. Try it on some scrap alu (anodized ideally) first, usual rules for corrosive chemicals apply (eye protection etc).

Well in my case, I accidentally put he body in backward on my S2. so the anodized was on the head side instead of the tail side. It wasn’t until half an hour later of cleaning and trying to figure out the problem that I realize I put the body on in backward. So once I change it and have the anodized side facing the tail the light work again.

[plumrt]

@plumrt

Well down.

Found .
The threads have ALL been anodized in my light. It was locking out at the head. nice)

Bob

Realy, ALL the threads.

[D10ten]

Yeah, someone must have accidentally anodized the whole tube lol.

[plumrt]

D10 I like, time goes fast! ………… scrapers I don’t ……… cranes are fun

[pilotdog68]

Yeah I just got an S5 host, all the threads are anodized on my unit as well. It’s really very annoying.

[bdiddle]

Your S5 is normal. Need a thicker lens or lens oring. I used solder blobs on the pill end for mine.
A new one will likely do the same.

Fully anodized threads are great for long term use. They last much longer than bare threads and don’t break down with lube.

[plumrt]

@bdiddle

Your S5 is normal. Need a thicker lens or lens oring. I used solder blobs on the pill end for mine.
A new one will likely do the same.

Fully anodized threads are great for long term use. They last much longer than bare threads and don’t break down with lube.

Agreed. Would prefer anodized thread.

However, Convoy has designed this light with a flaw if fully anodized, and should have set the depth of the head thread, and milled a SHOULDER there for a positive stop. A new light shouldn’t require me to troubleshoot and modify just to get the light to come on.

[bdiddle]

I agree that it missed the needed stop.

[plumrt]

Convoy attempted higher quality with anodized thread, but didn’t go the extra step with a shoulder for the pill to seat on to make the electrical connection good.
If they left the threads clear it would work perfectly fine I’m sure.

[bikedude]

Sorry, it’s not H2O2 (Hydrogen Peroxide) but NaOH (sodium hydroxide aka lye).
You can use H2O2 mixed with HCl but that’s neither cheaper nor safer, so…

[plumrt]

Probably not , just some good old elbow grease and ingenuity.

[Halo]

Easiest fix would be a thicker oring at the lens or double oring.
Might be able to just find a metal washer that fits.
I would solder a piece of coper wire to the edge of the pill where the body tube should be making contact. Bend the wire into a circle and solder it down in 4 places. You could also just solder a couple small pieces.