This product supports customization services, but the minimum order quantity is 100,000 units (100K).
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I have submitted a purchase request to the manufacturer, but at present I am unable to confirm the specific date when delivery will be completed.
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Depending on the situation, I will assess in the future whether it’s necessary to develop a customized light-emitting diode similar to the SFT-60. This product has customization capabilities, but whether we move forward will depend on market demand.
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I got sft60 6500k from convoy and like it, it’s similar to lhp531 in terms of lumen output, but only 1/2 the size, so the beam can be much more focused and useful, would love to have it in 5000k~
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So essentially the answer is no. Time for LMP emitter between F45R (5mm2) and F150R (12mm2) when it comes to light emitting surface (7-7.5mm2). 
Alright so I have this 2.5V 2.5A red emitter Convoy driver, here is the link to Simon’s listing
I’ve been trying for an hour and it simply will not properly go into the config menu. This one feels a little less responsive than all my other 12 group convoy drivers.
What does happen is when I half press 20+ times like all the other drivers, it’ll either keep going through the modes on group 1,
Or it will go into the 1-flash-buzz or 2-flash-buzz like it should, but then if I half or full press during either buzz it’ll do something different than normal.
If I half press during the first buzz to select mode group, it’ll just go back to 50%, 100%, or one of the multiple blinky modes.
If I half press during the second buzz to turn off mode memory, it will do the same thing, OR start on 0.1%, and mode memory will NOT be disabled like I want.
Any help? Is this driver just inoperable? It has been sitting in a box in a box of drivers in separate baggies since May '25. All the other drivers from that order work properly.
ETA I have a lighted switch installed. I will replace it with a normal switch and see if the problem goes away, will update soon.
Edit 2: yup I feel dumb it was the lighted switch causing the issue. Completely forgot its incompatibly with some drivers.
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Common problem with the low-Vf colors (red, orange, RGB), which draw so much standby current (on the order of >=3mA on a full cell when paired with most drivers) that they interfere with the driver. Maybe @Simon_Mao could consider using 1000 (1k) Ohm resistors for these colors, rather than the stock 300.
If you go with a high-Vf color (blue, purple, pink, white), the drain is reduced to <=1mA and there is no issue, at least on my sample. Alternatively, you can swap the switch resistors for higher values if you want to keep the low Vf colors. Or pry one LED or resistor off to halve the current, if you don’t mind the asymmetry.
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I find the driver retaining rings are extremely tight, the holes are too tiny for the tool I bought from convoy to fit in, my tweezers got bent can’t turn it, what’s the best way to do it?
Sharpen the tip of the round-jaw pliers a little.
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Also, a few thermal cycles between a freezer and a candle flame could shock the ring into loosening a bit. I had a S2+ pill with a super stuck retaining ring, and this did the trick, though I overdid the flame a bit and deformed the driver spring.
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I have four NV1010 R9080 LED diodes for sale.
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Do you have the Thin Retaining ring?
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No. We usually use our own Dremel/rotary tool to grind and sharpen the end of the round-nose pliers appropriately.
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I’ve never had an issue with the tool on the standard retaining ring, only the thin one because the holes are much smaller.
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First, use tweezers to screw the brass retaining ring into place until the final turn. Then, use a pair of pliers with a more pointed end or snap-ring pliers to further tighten the retaining ring to ensure a secure connection.
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I filed the tips of the pliers, now the tips fit
another problem I found, switching from S3 10A aluminum full tube (samsung 30Q) to 18350, the lux dropped by 20%, I thought it’s the vapcell M11 battery, but switched to stainless steel short tube it’s much better, I think it’s the aluminum short tube having threads and ends anodized, create too much resistance and voltage drop? also the tube is too short way too tight to screw on the tail…
Make sure you didn’t install the battery tube upside down:
Edit: The tail end is anodized except for the very bottom rim. This is to allow Mechanical Lockout.
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yes that’s how i put in, i also tried opposite direction, same thing, I think it’s so tight, the end of the short tube can’t make good contact with the tail ledge, and the threads are anodized, that’s the problem, either make the tube longer (I actually tried not the screw in the head all the way and create more length, much better) so the end can contact better, or make the end treads un-anodized so it can make better contact with tail threads
What battery are you using? Is it protected?
said earlier, samsung 30q and vapcell m11, both unprotected cdr>10A
i measure the long tube ~48mm, short ~15mm, battery difference 30mm, so basically short tube is about 3mm too short, that puts too much pressure on the battery and internals
edit: I tighten the tail switch ring more, and it improves, so I guess the reason is short tube is about 3mm too short compares to long, and too much pressure, tail switch ring that press directly on the switch (there’s no stop shoulder) need much higher pressure than from battery so the contact won’t be separated