Copper MCPCB Mods

[Pulsar13]

Being in international forum, I would like to highlight the difference in living standards.

Before anyone think about people being cheap or anything, it could be because some really couldn’t afford as much.

For example - the median wage for the US is about $50k while in Malaysia it’s $10k. That’s 1/5th purchasing power.

This is not exact, but quick calculation would bring it to this - would you have bought the copper Noctigons if they are 5 times the price e.g $8 apiece? No? Probably you’d still buy some to try out but not as much of course.

If there exist a way to use current aluminium or cheap dielectric copper board, we’d be glad to go that way, even if it means some mod is necessary.

[Rufusbduck]

I’ve go no problem with cheap. It’s a part of DIY.

Nice job CC.

[musicmagic]

@Rufusbduck

I’ve go no problem with cheap. It’s a part of DIY.

Nice job CC.

+1

can you tell the difference in heat transfer?

[Rufusbduck]

In my case, not really as it’s in a solitaire which heats up quickly anyway. I’ll almost certainly continue to use this technique on occasion.

[Nightbird95]

@comfychair

~.080” holes drilled, top & bottom of holes chamfered:

12AWG pieces are a light press fit. Clean off all the solder on the topside so it can be laid down flat, then hammer the pins from the backside only - that way the LED side won’t need any filing or sanding afterwards.

Before riveting:

After:

The chamfer on both sides of the holes lets the copper spread out and fill in the space, which leaves a flange on either side that locks the pins in forever.

Cool! 8)

So this is the right way to do it. I’ll follow this technique. Thanks comfychair!

[Nightbird95]

@Pulsar13

Being in international forum, I would like to highlight the difference in living standards.

Before anyone think about people being cheap or anything, it could be because some really couldn’t afford as much.

For example - the median wage for the US is about $50k while in Malaysia it’s $10k. That’s 1/5th purchasing power.

This is not exact, but quick calculation would bring it to this - would you have bought the copper Noctigons if they are 5 times the price e.g $8 apiece? No? Probably you’d still buy some to try out but not as much of course.

If there exist a way to use current aluminium or cheap dielectric copper board, we’d be glad to go that way, even if it means some mod is necessary.

Well said Pulsar13!

Anyway, I don’t mind what others might think as long as I don’t offend anyone and I enjoy what I’m doing. I also think that many of us here think the same way too.

[WarHawk-AVG]

@comfychair

~.080” holes drilled, top & bottom of holes chamfered:

12AWG pieces are a light press fit. Clean off all the solder on the topside so it can be laid down flat, then hammer the pins from the backside only - that way the LED side won’t need any filing or sanding afterwards.

Before riveting:

After:

The chamfer on both sides of the holes lets the copper spread out and fill in the space, which leaves a flange on either side that locks the pins in forever.

Absolutely gorgeous job! Love the chamfer and riveting approach

Excellent job as always comfy!

All done with a drill press?

Reminds me of those copper core aluminum heatsinks for CPU’s

[comfychair]

@WarHawk-AVG

Absolutely gorgeous job! Love the chamfer and riveting approach Excellent job as always comfy! All done with a drill press? Reminds me of those copper core aluminum heatsinks for CPU’s !http://www.frostytech.com/articleimages/200706/intelC2Dstock_nofan.jpg!

Those Intel HSFs work nice too.

[Nightbird95]

@comfychair

@WarHawk-AVG

Absolutely gorgeous job! Love the chamfer and riveting approach Excellent job as always comfy! All done with a drill press? Reminds me of those copper core aluminum heatsinks for CPU’s

Those Intel HSFs work nice too.

Whoa!

Wat is dat? :~

[comfychair]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300639533243

[Nightbird95]

Cool! That’s one bright LED at 9000-9500 lumens specs.

[djozz]

No worries here about being cheap! No matter if it is because of lack of funds or because of general attitude: I think it has something heroic doing so much work to save a buck :-)

[Nightbird95]

@Pulsar13

…

But I do look forward to see your aluminium version - that will be ultra-cheap mod with highest gain per $.

I believe comfychair has already posted the best approach in modding aluminum MCPCBs but since I promised to show my modded aluminum MCPCB, here’s a sample of a 25 mm - of course doing it the comfychair way :bigsmile:

Front end:

And back:

I’ll be reflowing an XM-L2 T6 3B on this in a few minutes and install it on my Tmart TS-2010.

[WarHawk-AVG]

Nice Nightbird95…any results on this yet?

[Nightbird95]

@WarHawk-AVG

Nice Nightbird95…any results on this yet?

After reflowing the XM-L2 T6 3B on this 25mm, I removed the spacer so the bottom of the reflector sits on the kapton tape I placed on the MCPCB to prevent shorting (I copied this from Texas Toasted’ thread). I think its the best focus I could get (it only gives me 44KCD at 1 meter - stock driver and domed emitter) but I cannot close the bezel fully because the 25 mm MCPCB sits over the pill.

I’m still finding other ways to ‘perfect’ my 2010 focus with the tools I have.