Simon, I ruined the threading o. A brand new s2+ copper head. Now I’m left with a s2+ where I can no longer thread the original pill back in. What can be done here?
its impossible, the thread is much bigger on the litnit.
Did you try putting a Hoop pill in the new S2 version (LITNIT) or visa versa —— I tried putting the new copper pills in an older Aluminum S2+ —too big —- won’t even start to thread
Hoop, master craftsman of the beloved copper pill. Yes, I used the hoop triple in the new s2+ copper litnit. Ruined the first couple threads in the copper head now I cant even go back to the stock brass pill
You are going to figure out the thread, and get a tap….
Ouch!
Copper is soft, but work hardens, so it is interesting to work with. If you get a tap and try to re-thread it, you have to be really careful (might be easy, but you won’t have too many tries) and make sure you re-thread it plumb to the head. You can use the tube to determine the thread pitch and dimensions. Not sure where I’d look for the tap though. Might be cheaper to acquire a second host come to think of it.
it’s better to send some photos to my email 468924022@qq.com , i will check
I’m interest in copper head S2+ with aluminium body.
That will save weight and cost
Received the LITNIT copper s2+ host I ordered from the convoy ali store today (very nice!) and the triple spacers and copper s2+ pill from kiriba-ru (also very nice!) and plan to do the build tomorrow. Triple lh351d 4000k 90 cri and optics from mtnelectronics, 12a ld-a4 driver… looking forward to seeing the build and results. There were 8 of the LITNIT left when I placed the order so I consider myself lucky. Very heavy for its size.
Those pills won’t work with the new copper s2+. The threading on litnit is more coarse. My heart was devastated and shattered my dreams when I found out the hard way.
I plan to use the pill from kiriba-ru in an aluminum s2 with the sst-40 5000k also from convoy and a narsil driver from lexel. The LITNIT came with a copper pill so I’ll only be using one of the spacers from kiriba-ru in that build. Based on the photos the tube threads looked more coarse and square than the aluminum s2+ (which sold me) and I suspected the same for the pill.
fwiw, i suspect the the litnit name and the emphasis was intended for the first i to be hard, as in “light’n it” similar to the hard vs soft i in the pronunciation of linux. if so, an excellent brand name.
Got my smooth copper S2+ yesterday and am pleased with the product. Machining and finish quality was just slightly below my other copper S2+ (from the first Convoy production run) but I’m not going to chase Simon for it as it’s minor.
It also came with copper pill and SST40 with ramping driver and with a Samsung 30Q it draws 7.7 amps at the tail cap! Gets hot quickly but I don’t need sustained 100% for long anyway so it’s fine with me. Very happy with the amount of light this thing throws out!
Can we get a Copper C8+ one day Simon? 
I’m hoping for a copper C8, too. Astrolux produced the C8 in copper but the host doesn’t have the nice design of the C8.
+1
Whatever, but with standardized threads. It's a @#$% when for whatever reason shite happens.
While a tad off topic, certain manufacturers like Sofirn (for example) use propietary/different threading for their C8 flashlights, this means they don't lego with Convoy. If this happens within the same brand, $%&#€ #@%%€n$. 
I’d like to see a c8+ style light with a copper head and aluminum bezel and tube with the aluminum anodized to a color similar to the brown the astrolux s41 baked to.
Yeah I agree, the Astrolux C8 looks OK and kudos to them for doing it in brass also but the C8+ design is so much nicer in my opinion. The knurling on the C8+ is also much better than the C8 :+1:
I haven’t acquired the spacer I need to build mine yet… but I’m thinking about lockout. As this is a copper light, I assume lockout will not be achieved by merely loosing the threads a tiny bit like with anodized aluminum bodies. Is this a correct assumption? Can someone who has managed to get their light built confirm?
I am not certain if the light is coated (had to hide it until I can finish it so I don’t spoil the surprise), but I am thinking there is a .04% chance this would allow for physical lockout if it is.
I tried the lockout with my smooth version. It works with loose threads and I had to take off the tail part to power off the light.
I think only the surface has a light coating because it still shiny.