I doubt it. Folks don't even seen interested in one for a SRK, and that's way more common. I might be interested, but could you post some links? I'm here a lot, but I don't remember the mod you're talking about, and I don't know where the best place to buy a TR-J12 is.
these days it’s not worth it to buy TR-J12 anymore as TR-J18 which is brighter and has 7 LEDs instead of 5 LEDs is only different about $5.
as it has the same body/head size. and oh yeah… the beast driver with TR-J18 is a lot brighter too 
Would you mind posting some links? Are a you avail with XML2-U2’S? Any copper sink pads with emitters available or anyone willing to custom fab them? Final question would these lights be considered flooders? Can they throw at all?
Thanks.
Are you firm on wanting Sinkpad brand mcpcb's? I recall them having quality issues: poor centering and warped boards. If not RMM has Noctigon's with premounted XM-L2 U2's in stock in both 16mm and 20mm.
Iirc the sinkpad v2 fixed most of the issues? I’m not 100% certain though.
If you really want to upgrade the emitter to copper boards I would go with xml2 on noctigon. It will be quite expensive either way you go.
In regards to the TR-J18 Ill have my review up within 24 hours. My preliminary findings are that it is slightly weak in stock form. It’s output is similar to a good SRK about 3200 estimated lumens. The great thing about it is that after a VERY simple driver swap and you have a lumen blaster at some 5000+ lumens. Extremely easy to take apart as well. Quality machining/threads/reflector and it looks great imo.
They are flooders for sure.
Idea and I have bought quite a few 20 mm copper sink pads with XML2-U2’s but being the tr-j12 and TR-J18 are multi emitter I was wondering if anyone made a multi emitter for them with the emitter spaced on one large copper pad and still not sure which way to go as my buddy wants a thrower something like a C8 but much brighter more throw all that good stuff.
Ohhh 1 big plate, gotcha. Not really sure where you could get one of those. I imagine it would have to be custom because of the reflector. I don’t think you could make a trj18 throw further than a C8.
BTU Shocker? Large triple emitter thrower. Might satisfy.
Perhaps a modded DST for a single emitter.
What kind of battery config single battery / multiple? Single stack plunger style, or short fatty / thick battery tube?
I am wondering if I am headed in the wrong direction my dude is the one who showed me the beast mod on tr-j12 but he wants a decent thrower nit a pencil beam but not the flood of a sky ray king and of course on a budget so any suggestions I am open and I will see my friend this weekend and reconfirm what he wants ts and his budget a you suggestions? From what I recalled he was wanting something around 4000 lumens otf .
Alright yeah, these 5 and 7 emitter light flood a lot. Slightly wider hotspot, but a lot more flood than an SRK.
About the only thing coming to mind with 4000lumens and c8+ throw would be a rather heavily modded BTU Shocker, TK-75, or that other triple that VN mods. I’ll look up its name.
You’re looking at easily $130+ if you do it yourself for the BTU and the price goes way up for the others.
MULTI-LED SHOOTOUT (BEAMSHOTS) This may help.
Not sure all I know is he wanted a budget thrower I don’t think form fa tor is a huge deal.he doesn’t want for edc UT more of a wow light fa tor for himself friends and family when he showed me the tr-j12 with beast mod he was attracted to the low cost but now what I am seeing it is a flooder again any suggestions I’ll bring up to him this Sunday after church thanks again .
You might want to start him off with a Jacobs A60. Building that would cost around $20. If he wants more, then you can start talking to him about the big guns.
budget thrower and 4000 lumens just doesn’t rhyme together 
but for a decent budget “thrower” lightmalls C8 XM-L2 is an excellent light 
but of all the lights that I own… I must say Fenix TK75 is a good all around light ( although it’s not really consider budget)
as it has excellent combination of throw and flood
was brought to my attention that the TR-J19 could be easily modded to a decent thrower under 100.00 $ USD but under 2500 lumens d as far as C8 S go I can do simple mods like swap out drivers and Install emitters mounted on copper sink pads and do some spring braid jobs ,I just got my C12 back from Vesture_of_blood water he lathed out some copper pillars he added 4 more 7135 350mAH chips for a total of 12 and man can this thing throw I feel like a puppy that found out he has another tail to chase, but again I am trying to help out another flashabolic friend aand get some more modding experience.
This is a workaround for these tightly-packed multi LED boards, where there's not enough room to fit separate MCPCBs without a whole lot of work.
That one is really thin & flimsy, I think only 1mm which is about the worst-case, it's easier on thicker 1.6/2mm boards.
I have to ask where in the world did you find copper rivets? And what degree is the counters ink 83· or 100 that is great idea.
Just plain 12AWG solid copper wire, it's around .079" OD. Holes are .080". Countersink is made with just a small Dremel round ball carbide cutter, I think it's 1/8" or around there. I lay it face down on a flat surface so there's no excess rivet sticking out on the LED side. It's easy to mill off the backside, really tricky to do on the LED side, best to just set it up so nothing needs to be trimmed off afterwards from the top side.
I actually do have a specialized rivet mill that is adjustable by .001” increments Utah that is a clever way for a thermal path did you use a hammer and a large punch to offset the backside of the rivet? How much does it improve thermal path way over just pure aluminum?
I just smash the rivets flat with a hammer until they 'look right'... the wire expands nicely and fills in the countersinks on both sides, still solidly locked into place after the excess is milled off.
It's not aluminum vs. copper that's the important part, it's that drilling & pinning eliminates the insulating layer between the copper trace on top of the board the LED is soldered to, and the Al base. This gets rid of that and puts the LED in direct contact with the whole Al board underneath and whatever you stick the board onto.
Okay man I learn a lot from folks like you Relic38 Tom E thanks