Costco - 2-pack 500 lumens looks like a large C8

500 lumens high and 295 lumens low? Really? Can you even see a difference between high and low?

-Garry

Yes, side by side, there is a difference. Not blatantly obvious, but there is a difference.

With regard to running these lights with AA Nimh batteries in C size adapters. I see that the instructions call for inserting 3 “C” alkaline batteries. I’m not sure if they are trying to tell us something there. Each of those C alkalines is rated at 1.5 volts nominal and 8000 mAh, for a total of 4.5 volts nominal. See this link for ratings:

Each AA Nimh battery is rated at 1.2 volts nominal and 1900 mAh (Eneloop). So the theoretical substitution would give us 3.6v compared to 4.5 volts. I can’t speak to the difference in mAh, because that’s past my knowledge bank.
I do know that I tried this substitution in a CD player/radio (6 C cell requirement, 9 volts). I did not get much music. Six AA cells gave me a nominal 7.2 volts.

The claimed runtime on high is 7 hours (sounds like a lot). If this light is designed to run on C size alkalines, I suspect that anything less could be a problem. My Jetbeam PA40 (468 lumens on high) has a claimed runtime of 2.5 hours on high. That is with 4 AA batteries of 2500 mAh each.

@SherlockOhms. If you can set up this light to run with 3 AA’s, I would be curious as to the performance.

Once you put a decent load on alkalines, their voltage drops very quickly into NiMh territory.

Current draw on high with the original coppertops is about 2.2 amps. With the eneloops, it is about 2.7 amps. It’s getting noticeably hot running the eneloops on high. I can still hold the body, but the head is close to uncomfortable. There’s relatively little heat build up on Alkalines.

Current draw on medium with either alkaline or eneloops is 1.3 amps.

Because of the heat build-up, I expect I’ll stick to alkalines after all.

1.33V x 2.7 amps = 3.6 W, 1.5V x 2.2 = 3.3 W

Er well let me rephrase that. lol

Doesn’t this really mean its heat sinking is working properly?

Thanks for the insight.

Maybe I am over-reacting to the heat build up. However, there’s a disconcerting difference between just barely warm on alkalines compared to hot on eneloops. I don’t want to fry my eneloops so I’d stick to medium level on eneloops or just use regular alkalines. I actually can’t think of any situations where having 500 lumens for hours at a time would be significantly better than having 300 lumens.

BTW, I took a 2nd look at the tailcap (after reading the slickdeals thread on this light) and finally found the tiny lanyard hole. :open_mouth:

I would take 500 over 300 every time.
I don’t think your in danger of damaging the eneloops unless you toss them in a deep fryer, they can take a lot of high amp discharges

How does this compares to the HD defiant 3C? Is the throw good enough?

These calculations are incorrect because you are using open circuit voltage in place of actual terminal voltage. The NiMH batteries are not going to experience much of a voltage drop while the light is running. But there is NO WAY that alkaline C batteries are going to produce much better than 1.0-1.1 volts with a 2.2 amp draw. The fact that NiMH batteries can hold voltage MUCH better under a load is the reason why they are able to push so much more current through this (probably unregulated) light in the first place.

Personally, I would just spring for some Tenergy Centura C cells for these lights. These are some of the beat around. And you will get MUCH longer runtime with them vs alkalines without that annoying dimming that you get as you use alkaline batteries. Yes, the light will probably run warmer than with alkalines. But I can say that I’ve NEVER had a light give me problems because I’ve used NiMH rather than alkaline batteries.

What are the switching mode on this flashlight? Any memory mode?

Right hand threaded bezel and threaded brass pill with driver

Someone asked in a Private message about the tint. Mine look slightly warm.

Being cheap & mass-produced, it wouldn’t surprise me if there was some variation in tints out there.

I am just wondering why this light does not get more attention from the BLF members. It seems to be the cheapest 3xAA light that outputs 300+ lumen. It has a decent build quality, versatile flood to throw zoom mechanism, long run time with C size batteries, decent run time with eneloop, good heat sinking and locally available with Costco warranty.

Compared to this 4xAAA light New XM-L Light,, 26650/18650/4xAAA Good Price and 57mm head ......... NOTE: The star is solid aluminium !!! :bigsmile: that I bought for 15 from ebay, the Costco ones beats it hands down. It’s brighter, throws farther, floods wider, runs longer on 3xAA. I am just a newbie so I may miss something here. What’s wrong with this light?

What is the price for these? $12.50 for 2???

Nothing wrong with the light.

Should get more attention in USA but I think the BLF don’t like zooms.

Also, for attention on BLF cheap lights first need recommendation by 1000+ posters.

They missed this one so evryone ignores. I think SAD :frowning:

You may be right. They probably missed on this one. I guess I am not a real flashaholic. IMHO zoomies are more versatile. Most of them don’t have a big head so they can be easily carried in a jacket pocket. I only paid 25+tax for a pair of mine. 1000 lumen for 25 bucks is hard to beat. And if you connect both of them using the lanyard, they will transform into a formidable nunchaku :slight_smile:

Did a home made adapter shown in one of the thread here. The tail cap measurement went up from 1.5A to 2.5A and significantly brighter! Nice flooder for the price.

Can’t find the right PVC pipe so I used the standard 3/4” PVC pipe from HD and grind it to fit.

I’m on vacation and saw these in the oahu Costco, tempted to pick up a set. I’ll probably never see these in Canada.
They’d fit better in the luggage than the Defiant light :wink: and it was 2 for $30 I think