Crelant CH10 emitter and driver swap

Other Types of Lights LED Headlamps
1

Hi friends, I am decided to buy Crelant CH10 headlamp but I did not find much information about mods in this headlamp. I plan to swap the original cold white emitter for C4. Is it possible to get to the emitter without breaking the light? Also I was thinking about putting my own 17mm driver inside. Will it fit in? I guess the light switch is momentary.

BTW, I know JetBeam hc20 allows emitter and driver to be swapped but I want to stay with Crelant CH10 from banggood which is the cheapest and will go through customs legally with no taxes (22eur limit)

Thanks.

2

Yes, you can get to the emitter by unscrewing the head. Once that is loose, the lens, reflector, centering plate and emitter can be removed. The driver is behind the shelf that the emitter sits on and it is visible but I was not able to get to mine.

3

Thank you Jackasper for this information. I suppose the emitter is glued with thermal paste. What is the size of the led star?

As for the driver, you say you were not able to take it out?

4

The CH10 is already available in three tints; cool, neutral and warm. Check out Ali Express, there are a lot of listings in the sub-$30 range. I bought one in neutral, and it’s right in the 3C/4C range. Might save you the trouble of modding.

The only downside to mine is that it seems to have a lot of parasitic drain when off. I simply make it a habit to lock it out by turning the tail cap an eighth of a turn if I’m not using it for a few days. Otherwise, its a great light.

s. Its also available with XM-L2 or XP-G2 emitters, if you prefer flood or throw. Mine is in XM-L2, and I just fabbed up a home made diffuser out of some thin translucent plastic and a chair leg protector. Works like a charm.

The power is adjusted in a smooth constant increase or decrease by holding down the button. It goes from almost nothing to about 450 lumens. It works well. First click is high range, second click is low range, but it can be set the other way around if you choose. It goes back to high/low after you break the circuit by loosening the tail cap.

5

Thanks for your reply Tumbleweed48,
I noticed the versions on AliExpress, but those few more dollars for neutral one will get over the custom limit when I have to pay VAT which is 21% here. So I will go with cheeper cold white and then mod it.

I am quite surprised about the parasitic drain which is quite big. That will empty your batteries in less than 2 days. Unscrewing is a possible solution but I gues that it will not be enough when the anodization on threads scrapes off. Does anyone know if changing the driver for momentary nanjg driver lowers the parasitic drain significantly?

6

@ Tumbleweed48 - Thanks for the heads up. I did not know that about the parasitic drain. Will have to lock it out as you suggested. I have a cell in there since the 2 day power outage we had here in Vancouver back in late August. Needless to say the torches came in handy!

7

Just to be sure, the parasitic drain might not affect them all, mine might the exception rather than the rule. I haven’t heard others mention it being a problem.
In general, I really like the CH10.

8

I use mine (XP-G2 CW) almost every day and I noticed that there is a parasitic drain but its not that pronounced, once I left unprotected battery in it for about 2 months (I used it before so the battery was not full) and it killed the battery but I can certainly leave it for a week without any worries.
I can test mine, vill insert charged battery and in couple of days without using it, measure voltage again if you want…

9

Hi Marruz, the pcb was not glued down but it was held pretty tightly in place by a plastic ring/centering plate. It’s kind of a tricky set up. There is some artic silver (or similar) behind the 20mm star but the shelf that it sits on has a slot cut out of it that the wires are routed thru. This is where the driver is that I could not get to. It sucks because the wires are so thin I could not believe it. I mean they are ridiculous. I will try again to get access to it but I think it was assembled inside the main body and I don’t have the “know how” to get it out.

10

Thank you. I found a picture showing the driver: here So far it seems that the emitter and driver swap shoud work just fine. The only thing is the parasitic drain? Do you know what is the parasitic drain of nanjg 105c with momentary switch.

11

I think they are great lights, I love the UI BUT

The emitter is press fit in the head at the factory do not just assume you can easily get it out (you have been warned).

The wires definitely need upgrading (if thay have not taken care of this yet).

As it is an E switch with a way cool ramping driver I only wish more juice could be extracted from it.

smart money says buy the one you want, if you want to mod a headlamp buy a SPARK

I have one with broken wires if you want it? just cover the shipping. Then you can mod it all you want or have one to practice on?

intl shipping from California might cost as much as a new light from banggood

12

Ronin42 thanks for your info and the offer to send one from CA. However I have already ordered one from banggood.

13

Does anyone in the US want a (broken wire) CH10 to mod?

Shipping will be $6 I can return over payment once shipping is actual paid for.

14

If you PM me your address I can arrange to have it sent to you from Czech so shipping will be next to nothing. (but my friend leaves soon so I don’t have a lot of time to get it to her if you want to go that route). tic tok :slight_smile:

It might be good to have a mod friendly version before you dig into a new one?

15

I’ll take the head light if that is ok Ronin. Shipping is to a US address.

16

Ronin42 I sent you a PM with my address and other info. I will be glad to mod yours first. Thanks again.