just sharing a little silly experience here, i was doing a small project, which required some AAA sized flashlight that able to handle a 10440 battery inside, as you can say- “smallest, brightest flashlight” and here’s a failed test subject.
some pics of the dead light-
I run it with a Soshine 10440 (3.7v li-ion 350mah version) and it was pretty darn bright, almost twice the brightness when its on regular AAA, but after a couple minutes of playing with it off and on, it went dead suddenly, my guess it probably couldnt accept the high voltage from the 10440 battery. By the way due to heating issues I didnt run it over more than 10 seconds.
of course any AAA flashlights isnt recommended to insert with 10440, but my Olight i3s xp-g2, Tank007 blackcat hm-01 survives my test with the same Soshine 10440 inside. This Crelant V01A was the only one that failed my 10440 test so far.
lastly asking if anyone has a Tank007 E10 and run it with a 10440 before? Because that what im gonna do next-
im sorry if my post is being offensive toward someone or not being helpful.
This Crelant V01A flashlight according to what I read
on the Crelant website, is capable of operating with
a x1—AAA or x1—10440 battery without any problem.
If you only used a 10440 battery, check the warranty.
Was the light new ? If it’s not new , how old is it ?
Did you do any type of modification on the Crelant ?
What was the project ?—Did you somehow get a AAA
and a 10440 connected at the same time to the light ?
Good luck, Mike
it was only 2 weeks old now from the purchase date(dies on the first day using it with 10440), but it seems new old stock when it arrives as the battery top connector was kind of rusty. i did not do any mod on it, it only takes one single AAA or 10440 which there is no way for me to mix different batteries together, no warranty comes in the package.
the project was simple, i just need to find a good small AAA sized flashlight that able to take a 10440 without issues with brightness increase.
It sounds like you fried the output transistor in the voltage-boost circuit. When run on Li-Ion, the input voltage is higher than the desired output voltage, and the switching transistor is on full-time [*], with the full LED current (which is now effectively direct-drive) running through it. Since it isn’t designed for such currents — it’s typically a tiny part of a tiny (e.g SOT-89) IC — it overheats and dies after a few minutes or hours of operation. I don’t know how tiny lights like my ATP i3 manage to run “forever” on 10440 with no apparent harm; maybe they just have a much higher-spec’ed transistor, or they use a separate bypass FET on detecting high battery voltage?
[*] the typical boost circuit runs intermittent current through an inductor; each time the current is cut, the collapsing magnetic field causes a voltage spike greater than the input voltage. The output transistor is only turned on during the times that this spike exceeds the output voltage.
I’ve had three drivers die just like this — two UniqueFire G10 (which were claimed to be 14500-capable) and an Explorer E84 (which was only rated for primary CR123; on 16340 it pulled 1.7+ amps, while the boost IC was only rated for 400mA max). One of the G10s had the transistor fry into a short, making it 14500-only, while I fixed the other two lights by bypassing the boost circuit to make them Li-Ion-only.
You are right, I think I fried the circuit part since I dont see any clear burn in the emitter. I know we cant run AAA lights forever on 10440, heat is a major problem, so i mainly run them for not over 10 seconds. But still it didnt survive as stated by the manufacture.
So I guess major cause of this is because the light itself not well driven enough to accept the higher voltage?
I had a cheapo AAA flashlight does the same way like yours two after running it with a 10440, it just wont take any regular AAA anymore.
Thanks a lot for your input, I think I just learn something today.
