I am wondering if these are available at a low price anywhere, the 2% 30% 100% on the 105C is not very optimized, in everyday use i would want something different that better meets my needs, but i don’t have the ability to reprogram the driver myself
I don't really think anyone is still doing it.. DrJones, maybe?
There's definitely a market for it.. Buy a programmer, start a service, make a few bucks and help the community at the same time..
what would i need?
I think it is still possible to buy the "lumodrv" drivers from DrJones.
He is very active at the German TLF.
What do you want ?
what do you see as optimal ?
For a 2.8 or 3.04A driver i would like 1, 10, 25, 50 and 100%
how do i upload these to the driver?
i assume i need some computer software, cables and an interface of some sort?
The only weakness I see with a q-lite is the lack of what i call a runtime high . which woud be percieved as a very high /(stupidly high medium) at about 50 or 60%. This would let you have a light not run at max and still put out about the same amount of light yet have good runtime . I see the "runtime high as being most important when you're pushing the limits of the light hard on high .
The rest of the Q-lite driver I think is well thought out .
There is lots of info on BLF about how to program your own drivers . Just use the search and start reading .
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/744
what ?? ....have you been asleep for the last year ? clowns will eat you ..
why yes when one stays awake for far more then 16 hours (be it due to clowns or another legitimate reason) the drive for sleep eventually catches up to you, you either crash and catch up on the sleep your body needs or have microsleeps while awake
here is the detailed explanation for my mode selection
1% for low light needs in the dark its more then moonlight but 10-15 lumens will get you through most situations and can last days
10% will get you through an entire night on one battery with a bit over 100 lumens great for power failures or when you need more then 1% but not lots of power
25% for about 300 lumens for when you need a fair amount of light but not a blinding amount
50% is lots for outdoor use but better battery life then full
100% for showing off and rare situations you want lots of lumens
if I had this on my most used light I could forego most other lights I have
You can program the "lupodrv" driver from DrJones inside the flashlight.
lupodrv user interface:
Just like normal drivers it has some modes and memory, but it has two additional features:
Mode locking: Select any mode and use it for a second, then quite quickly tap (halfpress) the button 5 times (so it's on for only <0.2s each time), then the mode you started with is locked; it won't change to next mode any more. Good for tacticool or signaling purpose. Return to normal operation by quickly tapping 5 times again.
Programming: You can change any mode to a different brightness, strobe or beacon; you can change the number of modes (1-7), and you can change the memory type (no-memory, classic memory, short-cycle memory).
Select a mode (use for a second) and enter programming mode by 8 rapid taps (<0.2s on each time); then the driver goes through all options (see below), just tap again at the right moment to choose the one you want.
* Programming mode signal, also serves as battery indicator (number of blinks indicates battery voltage)
* Ramps through 16 visually linear levels of brightness up and down two times; just tap to reprogram the above selected mode with that new brightness
* blinks 4 times (* * * *) and repeats that once: strobe (tap to select strobe as new mode)
* blinks 4 times in a bigger interval (*___*___*___*): beacon
* Morse signals "a" (* ---) twice: add a mode; the new mode is inserted before the above selected mode. Tapping here automatically starts programming mode again for that new mode.
* Morse signals "d" (--- * *) twice: delete the selected mode
* Morse signals "n" (--- *) twice: Set to no-memory
* Morse signals "m" (--- ---) twice: Set to normal memory
* Morse signals "s" (* * *) twice: Set to short-cycle memory (see below).
* Then the light exits programming mode without any changes and returns to normal operation, 1st mode.
Short-cycle memory combines the advantages of lights with memory and those with no-memory: Usually with memory you have a few modes, but if you want to go back to the first mode, you have to cycle through the remaining modes. With no memory, you always start at the 1st mode and don't always have to click through all the modes, but you have no memory.
With short-cycle memory, a mode is memorized after 1s, but if you when you change modes again, it will restart in the first mode instead of the next mode, so you don't have to cycle through all the modes. You can have memory, lots of modes, but no need to cycle through all of them. It effectively hides every mode behind all it's predecessors and is very effective if you have your favourite modes in front and blinkies or other rarely used modes at the end.
Text above from DrJones.
There's a custom driver thread here.
I sell drivers flashed with various firmwares (list); the most versatile for a clicky flashlight is lucidrv, successor of lupodrv. It's 'programmable', i.e. the user can change the modes as he wishes (and also the number of modes), and it has 2 mode groups to quickly switch between 2 setups, all by a number of clicks on the flashlight, no need for a PC etc.
There are also a few different UIs for flashlights with momentary pushbuttons (electronic switch) like the SmallSun ZY-T29.
I have several flashlights with drivers from DrJones and don´t want to miss them anymore. IMHO it´s the best programable driver and I can highly recommend it.
+1
You can’t go wrong with Doc’s drivers… plus he’s a great guy to deal with and VERY PATIENT to hear your needs and help you get exactly what you need…