Who do I send my light to for this and any other improvements??? :)
Put me down for 3
your work on this driver is simply amazing :heart_eyes:
My new Solarstorm SP03 is begging for this beast driver! At 48mm it should swap right in. It'd turn a good light with great potential into a great light with fulfilled potential.
Is there a way to disable over temperature shut off, maybe some weird clicking or so…I am asking because I don’t feel comfortable with a light which switches offs in a moment I really don’t need it?
Wow, this is looking better and better. Count me in for one.
great work on the thermal control. The flickering you saw with auto up and down might be the reason why Taskled drivers also have just a one way response to overtemp.
a couple of Q. Do you know what the LED temp is when case temp hits 55C? Temp at the star would be great, as I think we can infer junction temp from that and current draw. I know that this will vary depending on light design and so on, but I can’t remember much data showing what the delta is (other than the conjectural 10C between LED and driver).
Also, response temp is set to 55C because of comfort (hand held) not to protect the electronics, right? How does the light cope with some light airflow? I’m curious as my application would be bike lights, which generally have more airflow but smaller bodies.
Once the light heats up the driver, case, and star are pretty much at the same temperature. Junction temp as a function of star temp depends upon the thermal characteristics of the star.
Any airflow over the unit would considerably reduce the heating. Since my thermal management is based upon actual temperature and not some timer, it would delay or prevent the thermal management from kicking in.
Also, right now, once the driver temp falls to 42C, the thermal management is switched back off.
You would have quite a bit of warning before the light switched off. It would signal the start of thermal management by 4 blinks. The the light level would start stepping down over several minutes. It would be at 25% of the desired value before it shut off. If you were concerned about be left in the dark with a boogie man under your bed, you should switch the light to a lower level once the thermal management started.
Uhhh, this driver is 46mm… did you measure your SP03 driver properly or just eyeball it?
Calipers, baby! That’s a bummer if it is too small. Oh well…I will just have to put one in my non-functioning SRK then. I have a DrJones electronic switched driver to use in my SP03 if yours won’t fit so no biggie there. 
It’s odd they used different size drivers in the two since only the thread pitch appears to be different between the two lights. The bodies aren’t interchangeable like they are between the SRK and the Terminator. Would have been too good to be true if your driver fit the SP03. I guess you can’t have everything work out perfectly.
Well, how big is the lip on the driver cavity? You might be able to tack the driver in with some glue (or perhaps ring the driver board with some epoxy and grind it to fit). The back side of the driver does not need to make electrical contact with the body.
So no bypass off the thermal shutdown possible? Why?
We are all grown up and should have the freedom to switch a light on in high mode if we want so.
because he is building a driver exactly how he wants it... im sure if you wanted you can program out the thermal drop down
+1
Probably very viable options. I’m not sure how large the lip is since I haven’t removed the board yet. It is right up against the switch and appears to already have some clear glue in spots holding the driver in. After I do a full review I will risk tearing it open to have a peek inside. I’d hate to break the light before I have a chance to play with it some more. 
I’m sure the lip is more than 1mm so it should be able to be centered in and glued in place. Great idea!
bend a piece of solid copper wire around the driver and solder it on?
The batteries are at a temperature close to what the driver is at. The space-time continuum can get very angry if they get too warm.
+1 Was going to make that very same recommendation as I was reading my way down.
The ground ring on the driver only needs to make electrical contact to the front face of the battery tube, the head does not even need to be grounded (but good contact will help with the thermal monitoring function).
60°C is nothing to matter about with liion…
And that is a temperature many feel as hot…so they are warned already twice.
I would be glad if you implement a thermal shutdown bypass, maybe it could be switched on again and switch off again after five minutes or so.
It’s better to have this feature and never need it, as to need it and not have it.
Oh damn, put me down for one
I also would like either the ability to change the thermal kick in temp (45c is ludicrous), i’m sure you could program that to be adjustable by UI, or have an option to disable it all together.
-Jamie M.