Cyclone C88 with 6xAA -finished!

Wow! Nice work!

+1

That copper heatsink looks chunky !

Jamio, you should start to produce that extension tube and sell it lol :D!

Good job, cant wait to see 6AA vs 3AA beamshots, should there be any difference?

Sweet .

Awesome! I like the 6AA format.

-Garry

Good effort. I like it a lot.

Amazing work….that’s what the light should have been in the first place!Very nice!

Beautifully done! Thank you for also taking the time to upload graphs and pictures and the whole process. That is also a lot of work! TY.

Very nice work, well done!

Thank you guys, I’m sure there is still room for improvements!

Well, it certainly added some weight :slight_smile: maybe it was not needed to make the heatsink so big as transfer to flaslight body is good, even the default pill did the job very good

:slight_smile: I must agree now with one of earlier Old-Lumens posts, that at that costs of making an extension tube for c88 one should rather get a Maglite and mod it instead of modding Cyclone. There are many options of length and so no need to pay for custom extensions. But still, if someone is interested in cyclone extension tube, we can work something out.

I’ll do beamshots on max, only with 6AA. I’m not sure if it would be any benefit to do beamshots with 3AA.

I had time to shoot few beamshots and also have comparison between CW and NW led tint, here they are:

(settings are iso100, 1s, f2.8, auto-color)

control shot

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100m distance

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200m distance (trees and the building behind)

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After using this light a while, my opinion is that this light is very good at 100-150m, and still usable to illuminate object at 200m. For further distances there is not enough light for eye, so to light up more than 200m I would certainly consider a better thrower. With it's beam pattern it is pretty much all-round light.

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CW U2 1C (left) and NW T6 3C (right) comparison

These pics were made with color-balance set to 'cloudy day' in order to compare color differences. Notice that color of the wood is much better with NW, also red bricks are better with NW. On the other hand, green and blue colors are more intense with CW tint.

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Enjoy!

Great photos - thanks! Is it just me, or does the T6 3C look brighter than the U2 1C?

Yes T6 looks brighter than U2, unfortunatelly I'm not able to make further shots with U2 to compare again. Honestly I was surprised too, but the reason for this could be conditions:

= both were certainly taken with the same manual settings, still my camera is older

= U2 was at 2.8amp and on default star with aluminum heatsink

= T6 is at 3.15amp and direct bonded to new copper heatsink

I tested both leds at low currents outside the light and luxmeter showed about 15% better readings for U2 than T6 version. So I'm not sure if there should be so visible difference.