fritz,
I used vias, but I wanted them covered with solder mask, especially on the back. I wanted nothing but the ground ‘ring’ exposed on the back, because it is going flat against metal, which I’m hoping will help with heat. Of course, the solder mask is another layer on top of the copper, which means that the ground traces will be lower and won’t contact the metal directly. I’m hoping to help that by putting a bit of solder over those traces so they stick out further. In fact, what I might do is glop it on thick, then sand it, so that it is a uniform layer, smooth and even over the traces. That way, the board will still sit flat, and there will be good electrical and heat conductivity. This is my dream anyway. Whether it will work is yet to be seen. I had also thought about putting some holes so the board could be screwed down. But, I have so far forgotten to do that. I may try to add them for the next version of the board.
I think turning the AMC’s sideways wouldn’t help, because then the traces would still need to cross somehow. But, I’ll take a look at it when I get a chance. Anything that would simplify the traces would be great. I really like to KISS.
The trace you see from the AMC to the LED was put there by the auto-router. I added all the wide traces you see on the board, then hit the auto-router to fill in the rest. Since my center LED pad is grounded and the center pin of the AMC chips are also grounded, I guess the auto-router thought a trace there would be nice.
The middle pad of the LEDs is as wide as it can be on the bottom, but on top I was just using the same size for all the traces I ran. If you look closely, you’ll see that I put wide traces both top and bottom for all three LED traces, and joined them with vias. I wanted to make sure this board had the least resistance possible to the emitters. But I’ll look at possibly making those thermal traces wider when I make the next version. I have seen people use vias under the thermal pad for boards made for LEDs. I just didn’t do it. Maybe I’ll add those. That would definitely help with heat management. For this light, it won’t need it. But, if you count the AMC chips, there is potential for a total of 7.98A on this board (or more, if stacked). Divided by six LEDs, that is over Cree’s current rating for XP-E2 emitters by one third. So, better thermal management might be needed in order to maximize the potential of the board.
I was planning to order the 0.8mm board, for the 2oz copper. I want the best conductivity I can get, both electrically and thermally. I don’t need physical strength, since the board will be sitting flat against a metal base.
This board will support ATTiny25 (and 85 with bent pins) but My UI is going to be super simple, so nothing more than the 13 is needed. In this light, I will be using an e-switch, but OSH Park gives you three boards. I might need a clicky in the future with one of these. I want to leave the board flexible. However, the resistors don’t have to be populated if they’re not being used. And the capacitors could be bridged if not being used. At least this is how I understand it. My concern with the components is their positions relative to each other, especially to the MCU. I remember reading that some of these need to be close to the MCU, but I can’t remember which ones. And I don’t know if mine qualify as close, especially with some of the traces I have there.
I’m already using three pins for output. This board is meant for triple channel support. It is divided into one chip, four chips, and sixteen chips. The sixteen chips are on pin three with no PWM. I won’t be using those at all in this build. I’ll use two channels - one chip plus probably either two or three, not even four on the other channel.
Since it’s been brought up now, I could use some advice on mode spread. I was thinking of using four modes (maybe five) as: 1) 10% of one 7135 chip 2) 33% of one chip 3) 100% of one chip 4) 100% of three chips and possibly 5) Moonlight mode (but I’m not sure if I want that in this light or not). Anybody have a better idea for mode spread? I’ve seen people use thirds like this, but I’ve also seen people use quarters. My board is actually designed for quarters. But, which is better visually?
Edit: I just remembered that I still need to add some e-switch solder pads somewhere.