De-dome an MT-G2, has this been done?

Hello

I have seen beamshot pics of lights with MT-G2 leds and I find their color temp to be very pleasing to the eyes, with so much lumens at that. Assuming one has an S2200 and have its MT-G2 led de-domed, have its innards souped-up by increasing current, etc. (increased throw and a more warm tint is welcome), what do you guys think will be the net result? Or is this a crazy idea and unworkable in the first place?

Only by accident

I have read the title of that thread but didn’t seem to be interested at that time. Thanks for the link. It has satisfied my curiousity and has answered so many questions.

Totally increases throw and warms up tint. I dedomed my one and only MG-T2 (at the time) because I had busted the dome. I used the residual heat from a reflow to do it. Infortunately, the dome was in pieces so I could not get a clean one piece lift off. I think one will get good a good result if the heat of the led is use and the dome is gently lifted off in one piece. I have 5 more on the way and plan on dedoming a couple of them.

Most that have tried have reported partial of complete removal of the phosphor. I think ImA4wheeler did it right because his got warmer, not cooler.

Yeah, after reading the ‘accident’ thread, that got me confused. So there is still no definitive experiment result I guess.

It's not possible to do it without also taking off at least some of the phosphor. Skill and/or technique have no bearing on that. It's down to luck whether the amount removed is a little or a lot, and whether it leaves enough behind to still give a good tint afterwards. Remember, the phosphor is in the silicone dome, and you're removing the silicone dome.

I can do XML/XPG de-domes in my sleep, but I won't be messing with it on another MTG2.

Is the ‘gasoline’ method not effective on MT-G2s? It works perfectly on XM-Ls and I can literally sleep while dedoming them (XM-Ls).

I have no experience yet on MT-G2 dedoming but if the material of its dome is similar to that of an XM-L then I think there shouldn’t be any problem using gasoline. :~

I don’t remember which thread I posted in, but I was able to dedomed the MT-G2 from my DST using gasoline, and it was fine (phosphors were ok). It was awhile ago, but I do remember that the tint changed the opposite from other dedomes, and someone else on that same thread said the same thing happened to him.

Edit: It was on this thread: Accidental MTG2 dedoming.

Oh! :open_mouth:

So unless one likes the cooler tints over the warmer ones, gasoline should not be used in dedoming MT-G2s. :frowning:

I guess its time to learn and master the technique used by ImA4Wheelr. :slight_smile:

Edit: Thanx for the links Ohaya. :bigsmile:

You’re welcome. As mentioned in that other thread, what I did was poke a couple of holes in the dome with the pointed end of a tweezer (carefully, just enough to puncture the outer dome), then put the emitter+star into the gasoline. Others said wash with isopropyl alcohol after it’s done, but I just put it under a water faucet, slowly running water over it, then let it dry out.

I’ll put that in mind.

I’m currently reading - and learning - from the posts in that thread. :slight_smile:

If you remove every last trace of silicone like you do with the other LEDs, you'll also be removing every last bit of phosphor. The phosphor layer is in the bottom layer of silicone in the dome. It is not bonded to the die independently as it is in XML/XPG. If you end up with phosphor still on the die, that's only because there is some silicone still there. It cannot be de-domed without some amount of alteration of the phosphor layer, which is the only thing that makes a LED able to output white light. Without the phosphor, the bare dies emit 'royal blue' light so any phosphor removed will shift the light output towards the blue end of the scale. How much it changes depends on how lucky you are as to how much phosphor is left in place and I am not comfortable with depending on luck.

I have to disagree Comfy. It is definitely a separate layer. It’s just not strongly bonded to the led die. The silicone peeled off with no phosphor on it. In the interest of full disclosure, I have to admit that I feel I was very lucky on my dedome. On the other hand, I feel it can be done better.

I only just started playing around with these and I love the tint the way it is. I don’t think they are ever going to be great for throw no matter what you do and when you can get 1500 lumens with a XM-L2 on copper I don’t see a lot of advantage to using them for anything other than a good flooder with a great tint. You have to put so much power in one to run it properly and then the heat builds up so high. I have my doubts if they will see that much use in budget lights. I like them a lot more than the SST-90 though. The SST-90 is just not worth much at all if you ask me. (Anyone want to buy a De-domed SST-90 cheap :wink: )