No… I don’t think you understand… This is not only hobby for me but I thought that you’ll figure that. I am selling my builds.
- So you can’t pick 1 of 5 emitter (although with new ones 1 of 100 would not help) cause you are on loss. With old XP-G2 S4 2B pick any emitter you want and performance is there
- Potting buck driver. I’ve been there with Dereelights(since 2007-2014) and nothing so I switched to nanjgs and after that Djozz fet and problems gone away.
I don’t want any battery that is hard to get on my market 18350(nobody ever heard about that). Most of them did not even heard about 18650 which is unbeatable standard(battery size and performance) imho.
- I do my own “Djozz FET” 3$ drivers (150 so far and 1 failure only by mine mistake).
This are mine drivers and yes they are potted with fujik although they would probably withstand recoil without potting. They are one cheap thick and robust drivers… Thanks Djozz
Here are finished before potting with fujik:
- I am using precoolimator lenses and my beam has 100% bigger surface in full focus position without losing lux values. (Vinz Germany “patentented” that and we discussed a lot about that here and on CPF). Downside of this is less lumens in flood mode (less but still enough)
- Wavien copyen stole patent from our BLF member MEM (MEM invented it and he calls it “RA” = “Wavien collar”) and I talked a lot about that with him(when he was active member) and the main thing with RA is that is tricky to fit and you loose flood mode also you can’t fit precoolimator lenses… So you guessed right; I don’t want it even for free
If you can get me good old types of XP-G2 emitters PM me and I’ll take anything from S2 to S4 :+1:
Those drivers look like 105c’s that have been stripped and an FET added?
A bit old school don’t you think? Why not try one of the more modern designs, they cost about the same but are a lot more stable and would even offer more output power. Plus you could use the newer firmware available today such as bistro.
Maybe they are old school but I really don’t see how modern designs could be better? Especially with those AK47 vias directly connected to + pad like in some new designs I saw .
If you would like to share modern FET drivers for about 3$ I am all into ears… Seriously! I would really buy them for such money… Why? It is not that easy to make Djozz FET driver. It is 2 day process for me (could be faster with different glues etc but for peace of mind I do all with the stuff I trust)
And Djozz likes lo-med-hi without memory… Yes they literary don’t have use for me with your fav mode order But most people here are not hunters anyway and hunters do not like to cycle through modes neither remember how to memorize favorite mod cause they are mostly older gents that likes simplicity… Turn on - Turn off.
The power line trace on the old 105C was prone to sizzle under full direct drive loads. Richard also discovered this. The new FET boards from OshPark don’t have this problem. Quite possibly the 105C is ok at XP-G2 levels but not so much at XP-L or higher, and definitely not for triple or quad set-ups that run 12-20A. At least, not without modifying the board for positive current flow.
+ vias could be solder filled or drilled through with small dremmel auger for even more direct spring to emitter contact (although really not necessary to do so)
If you look at the drivers in my sig, if you left the 7135’s out they would cost about right around $3 in parts with an nxp FET. Even with the 7135’s (Which I am going to assume you have a lot laying around from stripping all those other drivers) it would only be about $4.
The nice thing is better firmware and all the parts are properly soldered down making it much more robust and much much easier to assemble.
Get yourself a stencil with some solder paste and things get way simpler.
Look, I was trying to help you. If you don’t activeley contact suppliers in many different countries, you wont get your old XP-G2s. And even that will not work forever.
How am I supposed to know how your lights are built? I can’t find a thread on them. I don’t know what name you sell them under. etc. Where do you advertise them?
It’s great that you use precollimators and pot your drivers. :+1:
Vinz did not invent this, he just perfected it (nobody makes higher quality lights).
saabluster sold his lights with them half a decade ago.
mem… I don’t know. He writes a lot of stuff without any structure in his posts. There are never any pictures of finished lights (exept for pre-built Olights), never any really good beamshots, nothing. The topics he writes about and some of the things he says are really interesting, but until now it has mostly been just words (I have read basically all he has witten here).
Could you post some pictures of your lights here (inside and out)? Maybe you will also sell some more…
I have spoken with MEM at length, I like the guy, but we have this saying here that goes way back… pics or it didn’t happen.
The new emitters ARE better. Maybe not for what you want, but they make more lumens while using less current, thereby they are more efficient which is what it’s all about as far as Cree is concerned. The actual intended use for their emitters needs that efficiency, so they cater to the people that buy reels, lots and lots of reels. We just use the scraps…
The problem I see here is that you are making general conclusions for everybody so you should speak for yourself :laughing:
PM me if you want to see them and then If I decide that you are good girl or boy I’ll show you. It is not thread for build show ups… We spammed it already enough.
I laughed when I saw this, I doubt anyone has searched as hard as l.i. to try and find old XP-G2. I was trying to help him with an Australian supplier but for some reason they stopped replying to me after I placed a small order, I would have thought a second order of 60+ emitters would have interested them.
Well ok, then we are back to the topic of new designs/ideas to get similar performance (maybe a moderator can put all these pots into a new thread). I think the lights will probably get noticeably more expensive though (and/or larger).
*EDIT: *I have an idea - buy some Noctigon Meteor PCBs with Nichia 5700K 219C LEDs and offer to build them into the lights of people who have the old XP-G2 S4 in their lights. The Nichias a just as bright and have a lower Vf (meaning longer runtimes) as the XP-G2s in these lights. The tint might be a bit nicer as well. Every light will get you 12 LEDs.
Oh there are more guys that tried to find them Mitko is on of them
My lights? I really don’t find them any special to show them off… They are regular lights that 70% people here were modding and maybe only difference of mine builds is used driver and precoolimator lenses which are not needed if one does not like it.
If someone wants to try them this is good(the best) reference thread.
And now I will stop spamming this thread permanently… I am unsubscribing at least until MEM himself renews it…
Dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B (New Production) - 170 393cd [825m] [13.63% drop in cd]
Dedomed XP-G2 S3 3D (Old Production) - 188 329cd [867] [4.54% drop in cd]
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The dedomed old production S4s does have an Awesome tint, that is, for hunting purposes, with its hint of green. I’d say the tint shift after dedome is something in the line of 3B/3S.
The dedomed new production S4s has a different tint than before, as already mentioned in previous posts. Not so nice as the old production S4s, again for hunting purposes, but not as bad as the old production S3 3Ds. I’d say the tint shift after dedome here is something in the line of 4S/4T (strange).
The dedomed old production S3 3Ds has the worse tint between the 3 LEDs, again, for hunting purposes. The tint struggles to make the subject ‘pop’. I’d say the tint shift after dedome here is something in the line of 4D/4C.
On paper the old production S3s perform better, but, I must say, in real life outside, because of the ‘incompatible’ tint of the S3 3Ds, the new production S4 2Bs (with the slightly better tint) is very close to the old production S3s, arguably slightly better, difficult to say…
Thanks for the insightful comparison shrick! It is nice to see numbers with these leds. And funny how personal tints are, I am very fond of the dedomed S3 3D tint, with lots of yellow and red, while you prefer the greener tints. But then, I do not hunt
Yeah, i have some old XP-G2s, i think they’re 3D tint, and i dedomed one and put it in my B158B on 2.8 Amperes, and i love the tint it has now.
I don’t know the sepcs like brightness bin either, i bought them from lck-LED on ebay as “neutral white”.
But throw has obviously improved over the stock XP-L HI.
Herewith the readings from my light sphere @ turn on. Tested with both Samsung 25R and LG HG2 right from the charger. Both batteries presented pretty much the same values.
Dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B (New Production) - Light Meter Reading -> 480 -> 1200 Lumens
Dedomed XP-G2 S3 3D (Old Production) - Light Meter Reading -> 435 -> 1088 Lumens
Benched against the old production S4 2Bs, the new production S4 2Bs produces 6.6% more lumens. The old production S3 3Ds produces 3.33% less. This probably implies the reduced lux figures on the new production S4’s are related to the bigger size of the die. I’m not sure where to check this, but are there also maybe a difference in the angles of projection between the new & old production LEDs?
Herewith a photo of the hotspots. Lights were placed next to each other, exactly the same distance from the projected surface. From left to right.
Dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B (Old Production)
Dedomed XP-G2 S3 3D (Old Production)
Dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B (New Production)
The LEDs are focussed exactly the same. The mark on the middle hotspot is an imperfection on the projected surface, its not in the beam or flashlight itself.
