Designing a perfect EDC light

Here’s the story:

I want to build/design/assemble a single EDC light to compensate for the multiple $10-30 lights I buy and stay and shelf queens.

Having a variety of lights is great, but I think it’s more quality over quantity when choosing an EDC light.

I would like to mix and match parts (LED, driver, host, etc.) and build a nice light that would stay in my pocket for most of the day.

I’m thinking of a single 18650 setup with an XM-L, so all I have to decide is the host and a driver with a reasonable combination of modes. (preferably low, high, maybe strobe with memory)

I would love to hear some suggestions. Thanks!

I suppose speccing out exactly what you want would be a good start. That way you can see if such a light exists, or if it’d be worth it/more fun to build it.

Good idea. I want a good combination of flood and throw with an XM-L driven at 2-3A at high. Yes, it won’t last long, but I plan to use the high mode sparingly. (10-20 sec bursts)

My budget is about $50 max, including an XM-L but without a 18650 since I have a lot of those.

My current lights are MDXL SA-16 from the $5 deal, a stainless steel Ultrafire C3, and a C11, all with an XP-G or an XR-E. I would like a EDC XM-L now.

http://www.intl-outdoor.com/edc-18650-xpg2-r5-xml-u2-850450lm-flashlight-p-522.html

http://www.intl-outdoor.com/lxp-18650-175a-xml-600lumens-flashlight-p-412.html

There’s a couple to go on with, the top one is available as a bare host too and is really nice, I have it.

For me this is already very close to the perfect EDC flashlight, i don’t have to design something else:
http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/ultrafire-uft50-magnetic-tail-cree-xml-t6-800lumen-led-flashlight-stepless-brightness-control-titanium-18650216340-p-8662

I personally like even smaller lights for EDC.
I used to carry a SK68 clone in a holster, and now I’ve been carrying the Trustfire Mini in my pocket for the last 4 weeks, and you really don’t notice it (if you wear jeans it perfectly fits into the fifth extra pocket :laughing:.

Sounds like this should about fit your needs to a "T"

This host and this driver with Low (5%) - High (100%) - Strobe

There’s also this topic match covered, I would suggest getting a few drivers and stars, get your edc host and one with a big pill, I found a c8 pill easy to work with, but the edc is tiny in comparison.

Here’s a good selection of hosts.

http://fancyflashlights.com/category.php?id=6

http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/category.php?id=88

Note the second link also has completed lights interspersed with the hosts, it’ll give you an idea of the cost of a complete light over the fun of building one yourself.

Gords101 has a good suggestion with the xpg2.

Also, check out this one:

1x18650 Black HAIII Straight Tube Flashlight Host Kit for XM-L T6

I did a quick review of it here. The build quality of the host is fantastic and would allow you to customize it however you'd like. The 8x7135 V2 drivers from KD allow some customization and are good for 3 amps. You mentioned xml, but you may also want to look at the xpg2 as well. It would allow quite a bit more throw from the same sized package...lending more flexibility to your edc and allowing it to fill more roles. A couple of more options:

- Shiningbeam S-mini xp-g modded to xp-g2. Have it. Love it.

- Eagletac D25LC2 xpg2 (or xml). On order (and waiting...waiting...waiting...)

Oh, and like Chicken Drumstick suggested...write down what you want, then start looking and/or designing.

EDC means different things to different people. Do you use your flashlight at work? If so, yeah a 1x18650 sounds great. But if not, maybe a keychain light might be more appropriate.

As a software engineer, carrying around a flashlight in my pocket at work is kind of dumb honestly. Therefore I use a small keychain one (1xRCR123) which gives me 400 lumens on demand, plenty of runtime for my needs, all in a small package on my keychain. You can do a 1xAAA one that is even smaller, using 10440 IMR batteries and get the same crazy 500ish lumens in a tiny package, at the expense of runtime.

You might consider checking out the MBI Torpedo, which is a new light that a member of candlepowerforums is embarking on. Its almost completed. He’s a really good guy, so please no CPF hate here as its totally not relevant to him.

Thanks for the link to the uf-t50…… Just when I thought I was done with built lights and convinced myself I’d just order some stars, drivers and the occasional host….

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I appreciate it!

I rarely encounter any situations where I really needed a light (in fact, I never have) the having an EDC light makes me feel a little bit more secure.

Some things that might help might be to jot down answers to these sort of things:

-What sort of power source?
There are lots of options such as AAAA, AAA, AA, CR2, CR123A, RCR/16340, 14500, 18350, 18500 or 18650. They all have differ pros and cons such as size, shape, length, voltage, price, availability and so on

-Run time
This will be linked with the battery you use. If you want more run time then you’ll need bigger batteries and/or lower output

-General size and shape
Again this will be linked or rather determine what batteries will be suitable. Do you want it short, narrow? How bulky?

-Beam profile?
It’s usually a trade off between spill and throw in terms of how and where the light is directed. You can rarely have both flood and throw. That said enough lumens in flood can still have a good beam distance, but that’s not the same thing as a throwy beam profile. A good example is an old in Mini maglite; focus the beam into a tight spot and it’ll throw the beam quite far, but only light up a tiny area on the target and have very little spill. If you take the head off in candle mode it is now a flooder, it’s lighting up a larger area but with less intense light and has only a fraction of the beam distance ie does not throw far. If you could up the brightness by 100 fold while in candle mode it’d still light a large area and it’s had a greater beam distance, but it still wouldn’t be a “thrower” in terms of beam profile.

What you need to decide is what kind of beam you’d like, do you want only a very bright hot spot and no spill (max throw). A Brighton hot spot and moderate spill or a more even distribution between the hot spot and the spill? You can even make a light that has no hot spot at all and is just a large even light distribution.

The thing is, personally while the actual LED itself will have a bearing on flood/throw a lot of it is to do with the optics

Eg

Smooth reflectors (SMO) will throw the best (for normal reflectors), however they’ll have the dullest spill and a bright contrast between the hot spot and spill. Normally the hot spot will be tight and bright with a SMO but they can be prone more artefacts in the beam.

Orange Peel (OP) is a textured reflector, these smooth out the beam and typically offer a larger diffused hot spot of less intensity, but a brighter spill and more gradual transition. They are usually more artefact free but the down side is they won’t throw as far and the OP means a slight lumen loss overall. There are different degrees of OP such as Mild Orange Peel (MOP) and Heavy Orange Peel (HOP). As well as hybrid rectors that might be part smooth and part textured.

The alternative to regular reflectors are the use of optics. You have TIR (Total Internal Reflection). Led Lenser uses these which are movable to offer “zooming”. But you can set them up as a static lens if you prefer. The other kind is a domed lens known as an aspheric lens. It delivers similar results to the TIR but with some subtle differences.

-Emitter.
Ok so this is still an important choice. But a few key points to consider; the larger the LED the less throw you’ll get for a given reflector in terms of beam profile but maybe not outright beam distance. So in a compact pocket light an XML might offer the most lumens, but it won’t be able to shine as far as either the same LED in a bigger torch or a different smaller LED in the same torch.

Lumens. I think it’s easy to get carried away with wanting the highest, but when you consider all of the above you may find that it isn’t always the case. For example an XPG in HOP is likely to offer a smoother floozy beam than an XML in a SMO given a 17mm reflector.

-Brightness. Max output can be great, but what sort of use would be typical? In a house or close up work a bright light will be blinding. Also a highly driven LED will produce more heat quicker and reduce run times.

-Modes. Do you need any? If so what kind? Different brightness settings, blinking modes? Linked to max brightness, if you want lower modes think on how bright or dim. Also some drivers use PWM rather than constant current. This might or might not be an issue depending on use.

-UI. Do you want forward/reverse clicky buttons. Twisty? Side switch? There are also a number of different types of UI such as multi button setups.

Quite a lot to think about I reckon :slight_smile: