Discussion of compact size production throwers 700m+ under $60

It’s fine, I appreciate your time and recommendations here, whether you saw what I wrote in the OP or not. :slight_smile:

And sorry about your bad luck I’m reading about, but on the bright side I guess none of the next 30 lights you buy will be defective! :wink:

I'm on a roll for sure but sometimes things just run in cycles and I have to learn to laugh about it if it happens. Most of my lights are all fine, but I did get an unlucky streak, no doubt about that. I will admit that the dx80 got under my skin for a little while, but I'm over it.

Ya I have to agree I’ve noticed at least in my life when bad things happen it comes in threes. One thing after another. But Ya no need to stress over it. Thrunights a good company and will take care of their customers. I’m really surprised imalent didn’t just do a exchange give you a new one and repair and resell the broken one if possible 300 dollar light should come with a no hassle warranty

Thanks! Even with the defects, I really love collecting all these cool lights. Years ago they would have been way too expensive to consider, so I'm real happy to let my collection grow, but I'm more picky now than I was a few months ago.

Thanks for clarifying, I copied that right from the review that you linked in your post.
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/44178/14

Actually it is pretty much the same as yours works, but apparently the reviewer didn’t mention the shortcut to low (or mode memory).

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Sounds like the exact same UI as the UT01:

There are 2 ways to turn the light on:

1. Short click to lowest level.

or

2. Long press to memorized level.

Once on (from either method) short clicks for mode changes, long press to OFF.

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I view the short click to ON as a shortcut to low only, since that’s all it does. The real ON is a long press to memory.
(I get confused with UI’s that turning on is something different than turning off) :expressionless:

I’ve been looking into the SST40 for either my HD2010 or SupWildFire thrower projects, both are clicky hosts, single cell, same head size as Convoy L2. But I don’t know enough about the emitter, looks like it’s only made in CW, 6500K is lowest. And highest CRI is 70.

KD has them available: http://www.kaidomain.com/Search/SearchResult.sst-40

I’ve been reading djozz’s review here: Luminus SST-40, a N4 BA bin tested
And the data sheet from Luminus: http://www.luminus.com/products/Luminus_SST40W_Datasheet.pdf

Here’s what I understand about it but not entirely sure: (I’m no expert on this stuff)

  • Same footprint and voltage as XM-L/XM-L2
  • Lower VF than XM-L2 and XP-L HI (don’t need to drive as hard, use less current)
  • Considerably higher output than XM-L2 and XP-L HI running at the same current.

Here’s what I don’t know:

  • How does it compare to XP-L2?
  • Is the best driver a regular FET/DD such as BLF A6 or MTN 17DDm?
  • Is it hard to dedome (slice)?
  • Dedoming can lower the CCT to NW?

Quote from djozz: “The dedomed tint is really good, less yellow than most dedomed Cree’s.”

Was also considering it for one of my smaller clicky hosts X7 or F13.

Nitecore P30.
Tailcap switch = ON/OFF (+momentary) and side switch to change mode (basic cycling UI). Last mode used is memorized = momentary turbo if it was the last mode used.
The ON/OFF switch is easy to find and if the tailcap was unscrewed to lock the flashlight, when screwed down to unlock it, the light will turn ON with the last mode used.

I don’t like : Side switch = hard to find. Cool white emitter.

Exactly 4332K:

And in my opinion, in the last version sold, the switch works perfectly (they probably made changes)

You forgot to add that in the Maeexu M8 there is a problem with batteries, because it has a tight tube.

Thanks for your recomendation, that does look like a good light. I do already have some tail switch throwers, and some that are waiting for mods. I agree a side switch is harder to find in the dark, so those are out for a “tactical” (bump in the night) critical situation/emergency light.

But this is not for that purpose, for normal use I find the side switch / e-switch far more convenient and ergonomic to use, especially for mode changing. It will never be as quick as locating a tail switch for initial turn on, but there are some tricks to help the ability to quickly locate a side switch in the dark.

Thanks I edited that post.

The tight tube is okay for me because there are several good batteries that do fit fine. But yes for someone else it could be a con.

I just ordered a UT02 but I found a review on Gearbest from this month that says the switch is not so good. Maybe they are selling old stock?

So the switch issues were only in the early versions? They upgraded the switch in later models?

Forgive my ignorance but what is the coupon code for the catapult? Can’t seem to find it. Thanks!

20%

Well that is straight forward enough lol thanks!

If your barn has electricity, you could rig a remote control from your house and put as many floodlights around the barn to be able to light up whatever is near it from the safe distance of your home…

Like this one that has 200 mts range… $15 free shipping

https://www.ebay.com/i/162323923072?chn=ps&dispItem=1

I did not have the first version in my hands so I have no comparison. I was surprised by the bad feedback about the switch after I got my flashlight. Works perfectly. I have a comparison to other flashlights and in my opinion it works better than in TC20 and Q8.

For the most part the barn distance was used as an example for the flashlight performance in general, although sometimes I’d want to beam out to it, I also want to beam out all around the adjourning fields, treelines etc., which the fixed floodlights wouldn’t do.

The barn does have electric however since the wiring is ran all the way from the house and is older we keep the circuit off at the house panel, and only turn it on when needed on rare occasion.

Thanks for the link on the remote, I have several of those (short range version) indoors on various lamps, didn’t know they made a long range one, that’s pretty cool!

my UT02 works great no switch problems in fact i was blown away by how bright this light is for the money

The UT02 switch has a little tiny metal cup that is taped to the top of the switch pcb board. Sometimes that cup flattens out, and it will not make contact. Sometimes the tape fails to hold the metal cup in place and you loose switch contact. Or you mod like 15 of these UT02’s like I have and lose the tiny little metal cup. :person_facepalming:

Then you replace the stock UT02 switch with Old reliable…plunger type momentary e-switch.

So yes the stock UT02 switch can fail and have. I bought 4 of them just before Christmas when I can get them really cheap, and they all had the same switch. Not to worry though these plunger type switches can be found and changed out IF you have a failure. http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_83&product_id=430

Working on getting some Lighted Plunger Type e-switches for replacements. I love the UT02 for modding, specially when they can be had for like $30.00! I sell a lot of modded UT02 Torches. :wink:

Just saying….