I'm on a roll for sure but sometimes things just run in cycles and I have to learn to laugh about it if it happens. Most of my lights are all fine, but I did get an unlucky streak, no doubt about that. I will admit that the dx80 got under my skin for a little while, but I'm over it.
Ya I have to agree I’ve noticed at least in my life when bad things happen it comes in threes. One thing after another. But Ya no need to stress over it. Thrunights a good company and will take care of their customers. I’m really surprised imalent didn’t just do a exchange give you a new one and repair and resell the broken one if possible 300 dollar light should come with a no hassle warranty
Thanks! Even with the defects, I really love collecting all these cool lights. Years ago they would have been way too expensive to consider, so I'm real happy to let my collection grow, but I'm more picky now than I was a few months ago.
Actually it is pretty much the same as yours works, but apparently the reviewer didn’t mention the shortcut to low (or mode memory).
. Sounds like the exact same UI as the UT01:
There are 2 ways to turn the light on:
1. Short click to lowest level.
or
2. Long press to memorized level.
Once on (from either method) short clicks for mode changes, long press to OFF.
.
I view the short click to ON as a shortcut to low only, since that’s all it does. The real ON is a long press to memory.
(I get confused with UI’s that turning on is something different than turning off)
I’ve been looking into the SST40 for either my HD2010 or SupWildFire thrower projects, both are clicky hosts, single cell, same head size as Convoy L2. But I don’t know enough about the emitter, looks like it’s only made in CW, 6500K is lowest. And highest CRI is 70.
Nitecore P30.
Tailcap switch = ON/OFF (+momentary) and side switch to change mode (basic cycling UI). Last mode used is memorized = momentary turbo if it was the last mode used.
The ON/OFF switch is easy to find and if the tailcap was unscrewed to lock the flashlight, when screwed down to unlock it, the light will turn ON with the last mode used.
I don’t like : Side switch = hard to find. Cool white emitter.
Thanks for your recomendation, that does look like a good light. I do already have some tail switch throwers, and some that are waiting for mods. I agree a side switch is harder to find in the dark, so those are out for a “tactical” (bump in the night) critical situation/emergency light.
But this is not for that purpose, for normal use I find the side switch / e-switch far more convenient and ergonomic to use, especially for mode changing. It will never be as quick as locating a tail switch for initial turn on, but there are some tricks to help the ability to quickly locate a side switch in the dark.
If your barn has electricity, you could rig a remote control from your house and put as many floodlights around the barn to be able to light up whatever is near it from the safe distance of your home…
Like this one that has 200 mts range… $15 free shipping
I did not have the first version in my hands so I have no comparison. I was surprised by the bad feedback about the switch after I got my flashlight. Works perfectly. I have a comparison to other flashlights and in my opinion it works better than in TC20 and Q8.
For the most part the barn distance was used as an example for the flashlight performance in general, although sometimes I’d want to beam out to it, I also want to beam out all around the adjourning fields, treelines etc., which the fixed floodlights wouldn’t do.
The barn does have electric however since the wiring is ran all the way from the house and is older we keep the circuit off at the house panel, and only turn it on when needed on rare occasion.
Thanks for the link on the remote, I have several of those (short range version) indoors on various lamps, didn’t know they made a long range one, that’s pretty cool!
The UT02 switch has a little tiny metal cup that is taped to the top of the switch pcb board. Sometimes that cup flattens out, and it will not make contact. Sometimes the tape fails to hold the metal cup in place and you loose switch contact. Or you mod like 15 of these UT02’s like I have and lose the tiny little metal cup. :person_facepalming:
Then you replace the stock UT02 switch with Old reliable…plunger type momentary e-switch.
Working on getting some Lighted Plunger Type e-switches for replacements. I love the UT02 for modding, specially when they can be had for like $30.00! I sell a lot of modded UT02 Torches.