Absolutely.
A lantern is — by its design — a light shared with multiple people.
Complex controls make no sense in this context.
1 Thank
I use the front and back selection on an LT1S quite often, but only to turn it away from me and bring the light level down below minimum. I’d love to see lower lows on this updated model
I know it’s a little off topic but please ask them to make the PRO Version with warmer tint! It makes the camping much cosier and attract less bugs. Nobody needs a lantern with a 5000k or more. The ideal tint ramping for a lantern should be between 1800k and 4000k.
One feature that I like from the anduril is the timer. Would be nice to set a timer and go inside the tent.
I had previously been thinking about button mapping for 3-channel mixing. Here’s what I came up with. I’m being a little bit verbose to try to be precise, but I don’t think it’s very complicated in terms of actual use:
Basic logic: The channel boundaries are controlled similar to the existing auto-tint control. Once the ramp reaches 100% of a channel, the light blinks and stops ramping the tint, and starts a timer (~1 second, I think?). The existing logic is if the button continues to be held until the timer expires, auto-tint is activated, with the channel currently at 100% as the low power tint. I propose a new action where if the user releases the button before the timer expires, and presses the button again before another time elapses, the new action is triggered. I see two ways this could be implemented:
Option 1: Continue to hold to continue ramping into the next channel once the first timer expires. Release before the first timer expires to maintain the current tint. Release and then click before the second timer expires to toggle auto-tint. This makes ramping across the full tint range more natural, in my opinion.
Option 2: Continue to hold to toggle auto-tint once the first timer expires. Release before the timer expires to maintain the current tint. Release and then hold again before the second timer expires to continue ramping into the next channel. This has more commonality with the current Anduril 2 logic (continue to hold = auto-tint).
I don’t have an opinion whether auto-tint should ramp within the current channels only, or across all three channels. I actually have a more complex idea that is not well thought out, but am not ready to share it unless there is interest in tinkering with the auto-tint feature.
Note: this isn’t necessarily limited to red - warm white - cool white mixing. The same interface in a triple-emitter flashlight could mix between warm white and cool white flood LED’s at first, then once you’ve reach all cool white, mix between cool white flood and cool white throw (Osram W1 or XP-P). Or it could be mixing RGB (caveat: R+G or G+B, but if R+B is desired to get purple, the ramp needs to be extended so that from 100% channel 3, it can roll over to mix channel 3 with channel 1). The same logic could even be extended to 4 channels for a W + RGB light, which combined with the rollover idea I mentioned for R+B ramping, could mimic both extremely warm white and extremely cool white tints.
However, I’m getting ahead of the current concept, which is 3 channels. Or actually 5 channels for the front and back feature, but the mixing ratios remain the same (or 0 if one side is off).
The current LT1s cycles this using 2C from on. There is no shortcut from on to max. This would be an option, but inconsistent with the current Anduril logic, so I think 6C from on is currently unused.
Hi Guys! Firstly, I am very impressed, that Sofirn use my ideas for LT1S )
Of course, some Anduril features vill be very useful, like timer, as example.
If we have troubles with channels for logic, i think RED could be simple used as separate driver and button. 1 button interface is cool for flashaholic, but for odinary users it will be much more better to use red button for all manipulations with red. Modes, brightness. This would allow to make any mix with main LED. (And this increase chance to have red sos even if main driver dead by any reason)
About side swithing. This feature will be very useful if LT1S will be possible to shine from top too. We could disable top light if place LT1S on table, or enable if we use it on tree or cable.
Now this feature work not well, but still can save a little power, if our LT1S stay on the corner of table.
I am very dissapointed for magnet missing. Sometime is very useful to put flashlight on metal wall, etc (for such scenario side switching still useful).
Side switching could be realised by just one button, which disable any commutations for LEDs from one side of flashlight. This is 3 transistors for cool, warm and red channel. Button pressed - transistors communicate power to them, unpressed - nod communicate.
So, everything that should be done
1 driver from LT1
1 simple driver for red (ramping-stepped-strobesos)
1 additional red button for red channel
3 transistors for one side channels
1 button for side enable/disable
3 buttons for camping large flashlight (and LT1S is not very compact) is good. Even old housewife would understand how to enable red, or disable side.
Guys, I started a group buy thread. Please leave comment if you are interested.
Yes, please keep the half-on feature, as it helps a lot with glare. However, it works well on the lt1s because there are so many leds. Can I suggest Optisolis instead of 519a? I’ve built lights ranging from 3000k to 6500k, and liked all the ccts. Their disadvantages (tint shift and lower power) are mitigated if configured like the current lt1s. The battery indicator would be nice to keep as well. I wouldn’t need this myself, but some have also requested magnets on the bottom.
As for the red, I find it most useful in dual channel lights when mixed with warm white. So I’d suggest adding it to the main ramp. When you ramp from cool to warm, it should pause for a second (like it already does for the auto-ramp settings) and then ramp from warm to red. Super useful at night when you want to easy on the eyes without turning to red.
As for the interface, the single switch interface is getting out of hand for multichannel lights. Can I suggest a dpad instead? Something like:
From on:
Dpad up/down 1c: Go up/down through the stepped brightness levels with each press
1h: smooth ramping while held
2h: ramping at a slower speed, or even a speed ramp like qmk mouse mode, used for fine adjustment
2c: shortcut to turbo/moonlight, then again to return to previous level
Dpad left/right 1c: click through a stepped tint ramp (maybe 9 levels with warm white in the middle, and cool/red at both ends?)
1h: tegular smooth tint ramp
2h: slower ramp like above
2c: shortcuts to cool/red, again for warm white
Momentary, candle, and other stuff would require 3 clicks or more, but it’s better than what we have now. The only problem with this otherwise nice idea, is there’s no way to power the light off, without making other stuff more annoying. Or just get rid of the click-step, and have every direction be power for 1c. Or rely on auto-reverse for the tint ramp and pick either left or right 1c for power.
Aside from sofirn’s unfamiliarity with waterproofing dpads. everything else seems doable. That could also be addressed by using those clicky camera pointing sticks (also known as af joysticks). Those also have a center press-in which could be used for power. I don’t know if using a ribbon cable for that would be too much for sofirn, but it’s worth a shot.
I think the other thread mentioned parts had to be reused, so I understand if the above isn’t feasible. Will there be sp10 pro style flashing pads?
Have my LT1S Pro now, but does anyone else notice this issue with the orange aux (button) LED? Firstly, the two levels (7 clicks) are set incorrectly: low is wayyyy too low, you can literally barely see it even in full darkness so it’s useless. High is far too bright and so also useless! (Completely different than levels on LT1 which is done just right). But also, high seems to drain the battery noticeably! I was wondering why voltage was decreasing steadily while barely using the light over a few days. It was down to 3.8 V. So I turn the button LED off and soon after that it’s back at 4.0 V! Something’s wrong here. Even on high, it’s not that bright so can’t drain it that fast…or can it. Ridiculous if true. LT1 on high aux led (which is dimmer) stays at 4.0 V seemingly forever.
It’s behind a black button, what do you expect? 
Low cannot be changed, but high can be set by the manufacturer (by selecting an appropriate resistor).
1 Thank
Yes, the hardware for the button light is … not good. It shines through a light pipe into a dark smoky button, so most of the light is absorbed or shines in the wrong directions. This makes low mode way too low. To compensate for this, they made the high mode way too bright, so it drains power far faster than it should. It actually uses significantly less power to just leave the light on in moon mode, instead of using the button LED. Like, moon mode can run for about 3X longer than “aux high” mode.
The battery indicator lights are also way too bright, and use too much power. But at least they turn themselves off after a while.
So I recommend turning the button light off, and putting some kapton tape over the battery indicator LEDs.
2 Thanks
It would be a start to place the LEDs under the light pipe. Right now they are offset.
1 Thank
Well good to know it’s not just my unit, it’s clearly a design defect. The blue battery level LEDs: agreed. Tape would be a very unsatisfying solution tho IMO 
I just tried a black sharpie marker - it works but still bright! Black paint, with a v. fine brush might be the solution. Or maybe better, a paint marker.
This is unfortunate. I like Sofirn but all the extra LEDs on this one are defectively designed then. It just points to lack of testing/refinement which is albeit what you expect for lower-priced products. But this lantern isn’t that cheap 
Oh ok, was thinking on outside 
Not sure is it right to post it here.
I have a question about LT1S pro. When I set it to turbo (which is not even that bright, its dimmer that my Fenix CL26R) its stepping down almost immideately. Like a 2-4 seconds. Like this is not enough, its have audible PWM on some levels. Its not audible on turbo (ceiling) but very audible right after stepping down.
Initially a thought about thermal control, but it’s not warm at all. I set thermal control for 50C, check the temperature right after stepping down - it was blinked smth about 29C.
How can I fix this?
And it’s also step down pretty deep. Like to 50% or more in a matter of seconds
Sounds like an empty battery or bad contact.
Forgot to mention. Battery is full (checked in battery charger also). Contact with battery also seems good (spring on each side).
Tried another full battery - no luck