Discussion: specialized batteries & e-switches (FW3A, FM1, Olight, etc)

I don’t know about those tires and sorry i’m not interested enough to read up about them.

Maybe my choice of words is also a little off point. Let me rephrase it. The proprietary battery seems a rather simple change to me but is only half the equation. The flashlight itself is the other half of the equation and will need more engineering than the proprietary battery. OP’s comment seemed directed at the tail e-switch type of light. I have a habit of looking at things from a modder/maker point of view.

BTW i wasn’t the only one to point out the relevance of side switch lights :wink:

Some related discussion:

Careful now, having worked at Michelin for 35 years you may be stepping on toes. I was a system troubleshooter at the tractor trailer tire plant.

Honestly just going with a side switch instead of an e-switch in the tail eliminates all of this. And I find the experience with a side switch to generally be superior.

The one place I do see validity in this what the Odin needed - remote switch easily attached to the tail.

It’s been a fun discussion. There are several valid points that have been brought up. I posed this not because I think the idea of a new battery format is better, I honestly wanted to see what ya’ll thought on the subject (and it kinda landed where I thought it would). There’s always room to push the current industry standard to something better. But new isn’t always better. That’s part of what makes this hobby fun - see what new ideas get cooked up, see which ones take off, and which ones fall on their face.

Like this perhaps.

/My first post

Ergonomically some prefer tail switches.
With certain kinds of lights (f.e. compact zoomies) tail switch is much easier to do.

For most lights, the easiest/laziest way for me to hold them accommodates a side switch better while the light is in use. The problem is, I prefer a tail switch the rest of the time, for more important reasons.
I’m going to compare three lights I own with side switches. Two of them are done poorly, and one is done extremely well: Emisar D4, Thrunite T10Tv2, and Zebralight SC62w.

  • Pocket activations are a problem. The D4, if not locked out, turns on in my pocket every single time. This is a serious issue because it could burn me, ignite my pants, etc. The Thrunite has turned on as well, but I run it with NiMH so it’s merely an annoyance. It’s also more rare. The Zebralight has literally never turned on in my pocket.
  • Finding the switch: I don’t typically have issues with the D4, but the Thrunite drives me nuts occasionally. This is even after aligning with clip with the button as a marker. For the Zebralight, basically the entire head design subtly points you toward the switch. Further, due to the unibody design, ZL uses the body tube’s flat spot to index the switch as well.

Ultimately, the thing is, I don’t mind mechanical tail clickies. E switches are nice because a mechanical clicky switch is a point of failure and added resistance in the circuit. Anduril is also tons of fun. But if I get the mode spacing right, I don’t mind L->H reverse clickies one bit.

Anyone else notice the e-switch set up on the new glow fw3a ?

Yup. A while back Zeroair did a review of the FW3E (without the glow body)

For $100 too? Erm… Huh. And I guess still people are interested.

Instead of a glow body, a version with auxiliary LEDs won’t use a proprietary battery, would be less expensive and therefore more popular IMO.