That is because the operating force is very light for the chosen switch, like I have said above is some of these light would be equipped with the harder to higher operating force models it would not activate on a light breeze.
Now I think many want an ultra light operating force switch that does not not activate in a pocket, which is kind of wanting opposite things. Sure you can have the actual button deep in the tailcap for example with a light operating force switch, but then one can easily complain it is not easy to access and could still be accidentally turned on by keys.
So higher operating force switch models can be solution for the light breeze activation.
These are different categories of flashlights, tailcap vs side.
Then Zebralight has most of their switches deep in the head, even if you would compare them to other side switches from other brands, others would still be not at Zebralight’s depth for the most part.
And finally most Zebralight come are high operating force switches, which is not really a design feature but a characteristic of the actual metal used for the contact, which is one of the main reasons it does not activate by mistake, many other brand can use very pressing force switches (and if they use very soft material for the button, then the pressing can feel mushy)
That sounds kind of dumb, no offense to anyone in that category. If I has known it would have been such a light touch I wouldn’t have bought one. Alas, hype and marketing got the better of me. In retrospect I should have realized for myself that such a design may have had issues for my own style of usage (flush tailcap) but I was blinded by the shiny thing. Well, you live and learn.
I think there is more to it with the Zebralights. They all are ‘chunky’ with big’ish heads and reflectors. This design likely gives far more room for the side switch and allows it to be more recessed. If the head was kept the same diameter as the battery tube, I suspect it would be a very different reality.
Maybe so. But the truth and reality is, I’ve had torches go completely flat or drain Li-ion to way too low voltage levels. I don’t believe all the torches can be faulty or poor design.
I admit, sometimes these lights are left for months at a time. Maybe to a max of a year (unlikely, but possible). With mechanical switches it just isn’t a problem. But it is a real issue with electronic ones.
At best, you grab a light off the shelf that you think is functional. But it turns out to have hardly any life left in it. At worst you find you’ve ruined another battery. Often a 26650……. which is £10-15 to replace.
Electronic switches are a poor attempt to improve something that does not need improving. The only implementation I like is the way its done on the Convoy L6 with a mechanical lockout.
The fact that Zebralight switches need more actual operating force is a reality also, as well as the fact that the switches are not flush with the head, more recessed as you mention.
Operating force difference wont make a difference for someone who has several things in the pocket in the case of a flush with the body switch button, but it would surely make for someone who does not have anything in their pocket and says the stretch from the material caused pressure on the switch to turn on the light, if this happens to someone.
But then there would be the question if the user would appreciate the harder/hard to press switch for this reason alone. Probably in the case of some flashlight with tailcap tactile switches would be good idea for that particular case of use.
I was thinking of the added length of dual switch lights like the Sofirn SP31 compared to the SP32.
This is why there’s many different makes and models to float everyone’s boat. Buy what you prefer to use
I enjoy tail switches BUT 99% of my customers like an easy to use e-switch. Tail switch you have to hold in a tactical position to cycles modes/turn on/off, while an e-switch you’re operating it with how you’d naturally hold the light.
There isn’t Crescendo lights easy to find on market
For me the solution to accidental activation is UI designed with lockout as a first-class mode.
My Andruil variant has:
- 3 clicks from lockout unlocks and starts the light
- 3 clicks+hold from lockout starts ramping from moon
- 3 clicks from any other mode goes to lockout (note: this does not apply to muggle and momentary modes which I removed in my config)
- I have aux LEDs on high when off and low when locked out to indicate whether the light is locked out
- After 5 minutes off the light locks out by itself
- After power is connected the light starts locked out rather than off
- mode memory is reset every time the light is locked out so I always know the mode the light will start with (either the default or moon)
BTW, I actually don’t tend to 3-click to enter lockout, I twist the tailcap back and forth.
I'm not in love with electronic switches. I like the idea of "off" actually being off.
I like tail-click switches on some flashlights but it depends on the form factor. I miss the concept of hardware-based controls for modes too. The closest thing I've found on a modern flashlight is a ring control with clearly marked modes. It eliminates the annoyances of both electronic mode memory and mashing a button X times to cycle through modes. Just twist to where you want and all set. Does anyone make a good modern flashlight with a comparable sliding switch?
i’m ok with electronic
wle
I like the E-switches on KR series and most other lights. I also really like the BLF a6 UI, simple and straight forward. I do not see the need or value of having a in depth UI like anduril on my throwers (ft03s, KR1, X9L etc) because all I do is set them to stepped mode with 4 steps and 1 click for the highest step setting (nearest turbo possible) and 30 or so clicks for the lowest step setting. I have never needed one of my throwers to turn on in moonlight or whatever .1, or even 10 really. I can agree with both sides of this argument, but I think it really depends on the light and its intended use. No need for ESwitch and in depth UI on a thrower/S&R light. On the same note, Eswitch and Anduril on my EDC and night table light is PERFECT. so… yea.
Side note, there is nothing more ANNOYING then when im trying to put my X9L, KR1, whatever into turbo from off while, say, talking to someone (maybe showing off the light?) and it going into battery check mode… I haven’t read about Anduril2 but think I remember TK saying that might be changed, but its really annoying and I do it often. and I use those lights often too, so id think I wouldn’t keep doing it but it still happens.
How about needing to put your Anduril light into "tactical strobe" and having to turn the light off first and then ending up in "candle mode" instead of "tactical strobe"?
Wellp, it might just relax your attacker into going nappy-time…
100% in agreement with the OP! As a matter of fact, thanks for this thread, which motivated me to go through my collection to make sure there were no vampire drained cells. Unfortunately, I found some.
Ideally, I prefer a hard on/off switch in combination with an e-switch for adjusting the mode, but those are pretty hard to come by. I think I have two in my entire collection with that setup. I wonder if there are any enthusiast flashlight forums out there that could incorporate the dual-switch setup into a cool new flashlight model… 
I found the solution to this was to have the start up mode memory set up to turbo, so one click always activates full blast, whereas a hold activates moonlight or ramping thereafter.
This therefore keeps the tactical function along with daily carry useability
I lean toward clickies for one simple reason; they seem to be relatively common & are easy to replace.
From what I've seen, e-switches are generally proprietary. If an e-switch fails, the user is at the mercy of the manufacturer which, in the case of Chinese brands, may or may not still be around. I have a Thorfire TK05 on which the e-switch first became intermittent, then failed entirely. When swapping the head with a known-good TK05, the problem follows the switch. A query to Thorfire has been met with radio silence.
I get that an e-switch enables all sorts of very useful UI's, and I have a few lights with e-switches that are much fun to entertain myself with. However, the vast majority of my personal lighting needs are nicely met with M>L>M>H, or, H>M>L.
slmjim
I don't like e-switches either, nor do I like fancy flashlight UI's with lots of functions. I guess I'm semi-muggle, but I prefer it that way.
I do own two flashlights with e-switches and on one I do the quarter-turn to deactivate it. When I want something off, I want it off. I don't understand why this is sacrilegious on this forum.