Thank you. . :+1:
Okay, the keywords to find those sweet hot plates seem to be : “LED remover plate”
I can’t check on Ali, but it’s a bit cheaper on ebay already
Or you can get an adjustable temperature one
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/UYUE-110-220-V-Mobilephone-Built-in-Pump-Vacuum-Metal-Body-Glass-LCD-Screen-Separator-Machine/32801227476.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7b654c4ddKdQ9c
Thanks a lot guys.
I won’t have to use my big hot plate anymore for reflowing.
Most recently I’ve been using a copper disc and my soldering iron. I put the MCPCB (or just a driver PCB) on the disc, and press the tip of my iron against the plate, rotating it a few times to get it to heat more evenly. Next time I’m going to (kapton) tape a thermocouple to the disc so I can track the temperature more carefully, and try and manage a ramp and soak.
For those that haven’t seen this here is a link to djozz’s home made reflow plate mentioned above.
I can’t believe it has temperature control built in the hot part (but perhaps a simple bi-metal switch) , the alu is thin, and 300W is absurd for a small hotplate. I do like that blue one a lot a few posts down from it though. Or build your own for less than 10 dollar, as Steve suggested 
I already built mine like you did Djozz, I just saw that in the new products section of BG so I thought it was interesting.
Here’s mine :
Now I’m curious, but the pic does not show for me.
Sorry, it should be ok now
That is one pretty tile :partying_face: , using a tile makes more sense than the wooden frame that I chose :person_facepalming:
Nonetheless, my little reflow block still works like a charm
Mine is ok, a bit long to heat up though…
The tile was an idea, not the greatest I had :person_facepalming: I now have a burnt area on the table :innocent:
Now I use a brick…
Mine I use clamped in a small table vice to prevent thermal contact with the surface.
I made one with four heater cartridge for 3D-Printers and a thermocouple.
Controller is a Rex C100 clone and a 12V powersupply from a Server.
I had some troubles with the controller manual and improper “own” design :person_facepalming:
The solid state relay works only with an AC load. I replaced the SSR with a normal automotive
relay and failed again since the controller can only source a few mA, which is for a big relay not enough. :cry:
Solved this with a simple transistor as driver for the relay.
The heatplate needs now a pice of wood to isolate the ground better.
-> Cannot recommend my design/idea, also the Rex C100 needs a relatively large case.
Besides the troubles I had, soldering MCPCB’s with a heat plate is now a very easy job! :+1:
If it works Zelda… I’d say you did good!!! 
Interesting. A word of warning, though - you’ll need to be very careful with isolation and earthing if you’re thinking about using one of these mains AC units. Mains electric shocks are not fun.
I’d be more likely to build a 12V Djozz-style device if I were going to DIY one (djozz’s thread ). It’s much safer.
Do you think it could work with a 24-48V input voltage, just at a higher current?
It would be an interesting DIY project to use some of my hundreds of salavaged 18650s, with a buck/boost converter with a variable pot to get variable temperature to either preheat parts or reflow LED/parts
Very interesting, thanks.
I wonder if it would be possible to control the warmup profile somehow….
- it warms up much too fast
- peak temperature is a little too high
- there is no heat soak to shorten the peak length
- what is the cooling speed?
Maybe removing heating elements would make it better?
First thing you should do is isolate those scary looking wires with some heat shrink tubing. For the money it’s worth the try, start with some old MCPCB to try.
i dont think so, this is basic a resistor, more voltage, more current, simple as ohm laws