I have replaced the mosfet but I noticed that the sprint of the driver gets really hot after some seconds of running. I worry that might some other components have damaged, except the replaced mosfet. Using a fet driver with star firmware is my next step, what do you think?
11Amps is lot ,maybe add copper braid to the spring
Do not bypass these resistors. Bypassing a boost driver which does not have an additional limit is bad. For example, people do a bypass on Fenix boost driver sense resistors, but those drivers have a 4.5v voltage limit. That keeps the current from getting so high that it destroys those drivers.
The spring getting hot may be normal. If so, a copper braid mod is in order. Maybe comfychair or someone else can tell us. Did you remove the bypass?
An FET driver will require you to put the emitters in parallel.
I removed the bridge that caused the mosfet meltdown. I am planning to use a noctigon triple in parallel. xpl would be great but they are damn expensive for now.
I would measure the current draw. If you get the expected numbers then I think it’s safe to say the spring is just crap. [EDIT: Well, maybe not crap. Let’s just say “not the best”.]
I've been ignoring this driver while doing other stuff... well, not really ignoring it, just giving it some free time to float around in the ol' brain computer.
As we know, the modes come from enabling small FETs that use a limiting resistor to control the output level. No PWM. Each 'mode channel' is used independently, only one in use at any one time. Would there be anything to be gained (moar output!) by switching them on concurrently? Like, low = channel 1, medium = channel 1 + channel 2, high = 1 + 2 + 3? Or would that overload the smoke-prone AO4468? Is it already too close to max output in stock form running thru the original resistors?
zeremefico got 11A at the tailcap when he torched his. It seems that the stock turbo is 5.5A @ tailcap on an MNKE cell, see post #13 here. In post #1 of the same thread vinhnguyen54 mentions that he purchased some to mod before he realized that the stock turbo was just as high as he was planning to take high.
If we are assuming that the smoke comes out with an input >5.5A and <11A then… I’d say leave it alone. Remember on the tail end of the discharge you’re pulling like 25% more or something, so you’ve got to have some headroom. So we may draw up to… what, 7A or something on a mostly dead cell on Turbo w/ the stock setup. That’s a lot of guestimation, but I don’t see much space for increasing the current.
Switching them concurrently could be used to give more granular mode spacing, as I’ve described in other threads for use with a 7135 driver. This would be slightly different of course.
Wouldn't that be rather straight forward though? Rework the pcb with pads for the switch, throw on BLFDD hardware with the old switch, wire emitters in parallel, and it's done. Old driver should still be good in case the BLFDD driver doesn't work out. I want to say that if no one else did this, I eventually would, but this light appears to be out of production and the replacement is currently listed with a very high price, so perhaps I took too long.
Eh? You are talking about taking a regulated, no-PWM-at-all, boost-driver-having light and changing it into an unregulated DD light with PWM. Totally different subject. Please skim the thread in order to get up to speed if you haven’t yet.
Also, and I don’t know if they are telling the truth, but WB and BG both claim to have the light in stock for $45 or less:
BG probably isn't. They've been telling me via email that this light is out of stock and they can't find new stock, but their webpage sure doesn't reflect that.
Yeah, I'm thinking of something totally different. I'd hate to muck up the stock driver without a backup to fall back to.
I don’t trust a one of ’em.
You may not want that thing you linked to. It seems to be a clone of the SF lantern head, AFAIK the universal opinion is that the lantern head sucks. I bought the SF one even after reading people’s opinions because “how bad could it be”. It was bad. Totally useless and completely unable to distribute light the way you might think it could. I kept it on the parts shelf for about 6 months and finally threw it away. I couldn’t think of any use for the parts and it would never be useful as a lantern so there was no logic in gifting it.
I wouldn't be surprised if the internals are completely different. They've done that kind of thing before.
Roche F6 driver from Fasttech left, Roche F6 driver from Banggood right:
xD
Ugh, good point. I’d forgotten about that already.
Is your v06 adapter correct for this board, as far as you know?
Yes, as far as I know. Assuming you just plan to use the stock operation mode of the driver (no PWM).
I have modded my mini with a MT-G2 on copper + 30mm TIR. What is the safest way (without damaging the driver) to increase the output on turbo?
'Safe' and 'increasing output from a boost driver' are two things that don't really go together. The current draw as the battery drains can get out of control and burn the driver up.
Well then, I really don’t want to fry this one! So, I will probably leave it alone. Wasn’t easy to fit that big boy in there!
Anyone have a final take on this driver fast forward to date? I have one appears to be a little newer based upon a component numbering and wonder whether its worth playing with? Someone sent it to me about a year or so ago and I don’t know who. (28mm)