You can play around with the spreadsheet here. Note that we are not factoring in driver losses, I am not sure what are the driver efficiencies between these and the SkyRay or Trustfire. Do remember, this is a 3-cell flashlight and fully charged is 12.6V and current drops while voltage drops, while the the other SR/TF are fully regulated and the current rises while the voltage drops so power is maintained overall. (P=I*V) https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/2525
What I also do is to give additional info to support, I use a light meter to give get a direct “OTF” from the business end, which is probably what matters for everyone. Just take it that the DRY NW at 2 amps is around the same as SkyRay SR3800 CW (150 reflected lux vs 160 reflected lux). If you are talking about 3 amps and the new driver works, it should be a fairly straight line up for your usage in Belgium esp under somewhat breezy conditions as I just checked your weather as of now in August (hey you are always going out to sea, you a sailor/make a living from those delicious crabs in the North Sea or something? :D ), that’d be 240 lux. For info, I get about the same from my TK70, in the 240-250 range.
The Trustfire 3T6 is at 130 lux.
But one thing you need to note is that this is for newly charged batteries. For eg I have written how I Direct Drive my SkyRay SR3800. On my meter I am getting 4.6amps from 4.2V Solarforce v2 2400mAh cells unloaded, and 3.6amps from my XTAR 18700 2600mAh at 4.2V unloaded. If you look at the discharge curve of batteries, it drops from 4.2 to 4.0V quite fast. On the SR3800, it drops from 4.6A down to 3.7A when the voltage drops from 4.2 to 4.01V. (of course when loaded the voltage sags). After that fast drop, the discharge follows a much gentler curve from 3.9V down.
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/2325#comment-44727
The SkyRay 3800 when DD (ie no driver at all, pulls amps direct from 18650s) starts off at 310 lux but drops quite fast to 270 lux in less than 30s, and then slower from 26x to 250. If i pack the head with 2 ice cubes, i can maintain 290-300 for quite long, and any drop is due to batteries, not heat. That performance is brighter than a TK70.
The DD 3-mode driver should be very similar in performance. Basically the heads are the same.
So Direct Drive could be a good choice if you are looking for performance in a cold breezy environment where additional cooling would let you take advantage of that additional lumens available from 3 amps to 4 amps range, for that 1 -2 min or so. This is what I found out last night. It needs to be cold and windy enough so that it is pulling away enough heat. Neutral White is really preferably for outdoor use. But if you want the max brightness and you are shining on concrete buildings and stuff, then CW is a good option too.
The solution is very simple. Buy an additional driver from Ric, and then you can decide if you want 3 amps or direct drive.