What is the date on the vertical board. The one I have and another one I got today for someone else says 2011-03-30, but the label is at the top of the vertical board.
The Manafont 3T6 driver is labeled TR-0159D, 2012-01 and has a couple more components on the horizontal board under the toroidal inductor. Also the existing components have different values. The 2 additional components are SMD and are labled "A07T". They are rectangular and have 3 prongs total along the 2 long sides. Two on one side (far left and far right) and another tab on the other side in the center.
Also, there is another resister bay in the voltage sense resister band under the toroidal inductor.
As far as I can tell, my TR-0142b looks like the exact same board as dthrckt’s in this thread, which is a TR-0159B, 2011-06-18. https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/17886
Looks the same as the TR-0142B's I have/had too. The version I have though (TR-0159D, 2012-01) is different. We talk about it a bit towards the beginning of that thread you linked, but I didn't notice the "missing" components in his pictures at the time. I can see it now. The two additional components would be on the horizontal board right under the sense resister back in the 3rd and 4th picture of the OP. His is just blank green there, but our TR-0142B's have a label imprinted there. Additionally, the vertical board is taller on the TR-0142B. I will do my best to take a couple pictures tonight. The version I have is the one I want to get more of.
EDIT: A couple pictures:
TR-0142B. Notice label on horizontal board under the toroidal inductor:
The labels on the bays are Q1 and Q3. Does anyone know what they are?
I decided to dial back to 6.5 amps. Also went with domed XM-L2 T6 3C. It a much tamer light now with only 134kcd, but it is much more useful to me in this configuration. Bigger hot spot and brighter spill. I kind of miss the burning hot hot spot though. Just seemed like. "I'm a pissed off hot spot and I have places to go!" Fun on occasion, but not what I need.
No, it's missing these 2 components under the inductor. Q1 and Q3 in the pic below. That driver from FT will eat up xml's if you go past around 5 1/2 amps.
EDIT: I'm not sure the driver you linked to (One post up) fries xml's. I was thinking about this driver when I said the above. The driver you linked to above is a 32mm diameter driver. As opposed to the 26mm driver being talked about in this thread.
The only gain I'm looking for is to get rid of the fried parts and make the driver functional again. The specs are slightly different, but I don't think these parts are in the main current path so not affecting output to the LEDs, everything that exploded seems to be right near the B+ input section.
I just did the same exact thing on my fenix TK45 (replaced one of those unknown sod323 FET’s with a 2502 and it worked perfect and now a guy’s sent me a TK61 driver that needs the same thing). The one I took off the 45 I can’t even look up spec’s on cause it was literally cracked open and melted, a 2502 had it running again in 10 minutes!
I think it’ll get it fixed up for you no problem.
I try to make sure I have good clear macro pics of everything before I do stuff that could be risky. If I didn't have these I'd never be able to figure out what they were.
Stock TR-J18 boost driver, TR-0169D. Adding the extra 0.25 ohm resistor isn't what killed it, it ran fine after adding that. Tail numbers went from like 2.25A to over 7A(!).
We may have a source for the good "3T6" drivers. I just received this one from GearBest. It has those 2 components under the inductor that seems to be what separates it from the bad driver that fries xmls.
I haven't tried it out yet. But visually, it looks promising.
I got a couple 3T6 drivers, but I probably won't have time to comparison test. When I do use this driver, I'll report back how well it works. If it's good, I'll report in those high current threads by MRsDNF and RaceR86.
Well mine didn't work. It lit up for about 2 seconds then shut off, no smoke or drama, just gone. It's still boosting, I measure ~34.xx volts from LED+ to ground, but ~19v from LED- to ground as well. The difference there is the drop through the LEDs, the LED- side isn't being grounded.
Is there ANY driver available to buy ANYWHERE that will run a J18 with XML2s? For more than 5 minutes? Even another stock driver. Why aren't these drivers for sale anywhere, I mean other TF drivers used in other TF lights are, why not more of them?
CC which one of them is bad? Do you have other value FET’s you can try? I have several dozen different assorted ones in that package size I would gladly send you if you want to try some experimentation.
Yep, 3T6 is wired in series, with only 2 cells/8.4v input. The one you linked to at FT is a buck driver.
I'm not for sure what failed the second time. I guess if I replace the 2 FETs again and it works for another ~2 seconds, that'll at least verify that's where the problem is. I don't know if I even want to mess with it anymore.
I couldn't find another 226D (20v) tantalum cap, all I had was a 226C (16v) in the same case size. I did replace the new 226C with another one and it remained just as dead as before. Didn't change a thing.
