Hi, if it is glued with cyano (and not threadlocked), let the head soak in acetone for few days!
Bienvenido rio immagina 
I do not know what product is used to seal the ET.
If you try it first, please share your results. 
I don’t have a D25A, only the C versions (which open no problem from the bezel), but, if the heat or the cold don’t work, acetone is worth a try.
This is how I opened my old Bitz. Boiling the head for hours did not work, freezing it for days neither.
Anyway, I can assure you that acetone will not attack aluminum, titanium or bronze. However, beware the plastic component of the driver.
Happy modding!
just received a new toy (tool) for measuring CCT, CRI, Tint, and Flicker
Oppel Light Master
D25A on AA Eneloop w XM-L2 4800K, 68 CRI Ra:
flicker on low mode:
that explains the banding in this photo… middle light is the ET
.
here is medium mode:
and high mode:
.
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different model D25C 2017 Ti:
Just so people know, the D25A runs on a triple A battery, not a CR123A, or 16340.
Chris
Incorrect.
- D25A runs on AA, not AAA battery. The newer D25As (versions from 2014 and beyond) also support li-ion and function with all modes working properly on 14500. Earlier versions of D25a will work on li-ion at min and max, but intermediate modes don’t work.
- Same applies to the D25C, which is designed for CR123, but for the 2014 and beyond versions fully support li-ion 16340.
1 Thank
Stand corrected and thanks!
I have a 2014 D25C Ti. clicky in my pocket, as I type this.
Chris
Chris
fwiw, there is a D25 for sale
(not affiliated…) I think its a 2014 Ti D25C… check the model year pics in post 15 above