Electric fixed-wing vertical takeoff and landing (eVTOL) aircraft should not be sold in cold states.
Probably should not be sold it hot states either.
Certainly should not be sold to people that have no clue how to take care of batteries.
Probablyā¦should not be sold.
I agree, they should not be sold, they should be leased.
I was in an electric car few days ago for first time. I cant say I loved it but it was better than taking the bus.
I took my dog for a walk around the neighborhood around 7:30-8am the other day, it was a still morning, no wind, sunny day, a little chilly, like -15°C, and the whole out of doors smelled like it had a gas leak. I kept looking around for a house fire but no it was everybody idling their car in the driveway.
Everybody starts their car and then go back inside and get ready for work so itās warm by the time they leave. Which they always have done but its really noticeable when thereās no wind. I mean thatās gotta cost you some range lol
yea, got to be couple of blocks worth of range lost, terrible.
Yes, 20 feet of less range per tank of gas. Its truly unacceptable. How many babies have to be sacrificed.
Odd, I canāt smell my EV. Wonder if there is something missing?
Thatās literally one of the worst things to do. The engine gets nice and toasty, but the trannyās still ice-cold.
Best is to just let the car idle long enough for the oil to get circulating, no more than a minute or two, then just go. Sloooowly and gently, and that warms up both pretty quickly.
My old car had an 88hp(!!) engine, and I could tell on cold days that the tranny fluid was so syrupy that driving felt like I was slogging through mud, and actually needed to bap the accelerator vs just letting it fast-idle its way along.
Iād literally let it do just that: fast-idle as much of the way down to the expressway as I could, moving over to let others pass if Iād see anyone coming up behind me. By the time Iād get to the on-ramp, I could do a āreduced-power takeoffā up the ramp by just holding to, say, a constant 2000rpm. So I could just barely feather the throttle to get up to highway speed, and itād by then be already warm, both engine and tranny (and bearings, etc.).
Also, as soon as itād start getting to near-freezing, Iād block off the radiator. No need to let a 60mph headwind air-cool everything I worked do hard to warm up. Plus, that much less ādirtyā airflow.
Problem is, people just donāt think. They want a warm interior, so let the engine take forever to do that by idling, even if itās absolutely the worst for the engine, and let everything else be frigid like the arctic.
The gasoline-scented air-freshener?
Shaped like a little jerrycan vs pine-tree⦠Love those things, but the scent doesnāt last long.
Absolutely, I tell people this all the time.
But occasionally I donāt follow my own advice. Rarely, but if itās really bad sometimes Iāll thinkā¦do I want to spend spent 30 minutes manually pushing off snow and breaking ice to drive to work with no heat the entire time⦠or do I want to start the car, go take a hot shower, watch some TV, and then come out to a warm car with the ice and snow melted enough that the wipers push it all off.
But thatās like a once a year kind of thing for me. People do it everyday all winter tho.
What I need is an oil pan heater but my oil pan is plastic. I need to switch it for an aluminum pan so I can stick a heater on it. Or figure something else out.
My suv has a remote start and a 10 min timer, i start around 10 min before i leave in the winter, it automatically sets climate to 72 everytime remote start is activated, even when it is 10f outside, i get in a car and it is warm already. it does not really take forever, just 10 min, I do same in a hot weather too, when i get in, it is already cooled enough, not sauna hot like it happens when i do not use remote start.
It is a myth that idling is bad for an engine, police cars idle 2/3 of the time, their motor hours are 3-4 times more for the mileage, yet you take that engine apart it would look fine for the actual mileage driven. our shop used to have lots of old police cars used as car service cars, mostly crown vic, common issue oil burning due to small rubber parts wear, so we opened lots of them most of them looked pretty good otherwise, no extra wear for extra thousands of hours idling, some had sludge issues, but imo they were not serviced correctly, not due to idling.
Makes me grind my teeth when I see someone starting their car in the deep winter and flooring it to 80mph.
For the record, when you warm up the engine, you also warm up the transmission (fluid) as the engine turns the torque converter that turns the transmission pump that circulates the fluid in an automatic transmission.
Rain-X. Slather it on and donāt even wipe it off, right before an expected snow-/ice-storm.
A few quick light baps to just break the ice, and it pushes off practically in a sheet.
Dipstick-heater.
Idling from cold to heat up, not idling in general. Huge differenceā¦
Yeah, assuming no faults with the radiator this has been a solved issue for decades now.
It does take what seems like a small eternity for an idling vehicle to warm up to the point that thereās surplus heat to shed to the cabin. On the handful of days Iāve got to scrape frost off the windows I start the car and turn on the front/rear defrosters while I scrape away. But by the time Iāve worked around the car starting one side of the front to the other side of the front the rear defroster has but loosened frost around the conductors and the front defrost has barely started to remove frost near the vents.
Totally true, friend from high school is Trans tech for 40 years, he says a warm tranny is a happy tranny, but an overheated tranny is soon to be a sick one. He also recommends warming up the engine.
Power steering pump will warm the fluid as well when idling during a warm up run.
Have had 2 Chrysler minivans with 3.8 engines and have gotten 333,000 miles with original factory engine and tranny. Bought with 28,000 miles and always warmed up in cold weather. Other one was retired with 272,000 because of rust issues but drivetrain was still strong. Use Good oil and Filters and they can last.
Cylinder washdown from idling is wives tale, non issue.
Properly working fuel injection comes off high idle/Full rich condition much quicker than the primitive 1800-2000 screamers of past.
Car shouldnāt stink after like 2 min. average.
YMMV
Very little, though. Like idling.
Itās that gear-on-gear action that heats up things, and why trannies fry when hauling too much for too long.