Emisar 21700!!!

[SteveK]

@Mark M

I have taken my head apart and it is pretty easy to swap the optics on the 9 LED for channel 1, but I didn’t try to take off the other 3.

Just going by what Hank said, haven’t gotten my light yet. It didn’t LOOK like it would be particularly difficult to do from the pics of the light but there was no floody optic available for purchase on the menu for ordering so I inquired directly. Maybe he will offer the optic separately at some point. For now I’ll use it the way it comes from the factory. If I want flood I have a D4V2 mule that does that quite nicely and is an easy pocket carry.

[Photon_Master]

@Lux-Perpetua

The 40T can be considered as the most reasonable compromise between performance and runtime. While the 30T (in theory) has a slightly lower drop in voltage in the first seconds on Turbo you probably will not notice any benefit from it afterwards. If you are a „lumen hunter“ to measure the peak output in the first 10s, go for the 30T. Otherwise, the 40T is the better option. Both batteries easily sustain SBT90.2‘s power consumption of approx. 20A.

The most promising battery will certainly be the new Samsung 50S which combines the power of the 40T with the capacity of the 50E. Unfortunately, this battery is hardly available right now. I hope Hank will offer it on his shop anytime soon.

Thanks for this great info Lux! I’m going to roll with my 30T’s and 50E’s until the 50S is available!

I’m thinking of getting some monochromatic lights since Hank said he was able to get the XP-E2, but it does not work with D4S V2 and D18.

Any ideas? Thanks again

[Photon_Master]

@MoreLumens

I hope that there will be a more compact version of K9.3. Maybe like K4.1or something that uses single 21700 and head which is not much bigger than that. Would be nice edc-size and getting 660 nm red and white in same package or like W2 in the middle and some floody good around it.

How about a K12.6 in the shape of the D18? I’d be all over that

[Photon_Master]

Or Elon Musk’s new 46800 battery. I wonder how long before we’ll see that bad boy in a flashlight…

[puglife2]

@Photon Master

Or Elon Musk’s new 46800 battery. I wonder how long before we’ll see that bad boy in a flashlight…

it’s like a D cell on steroids

[000-Bluefire]

@Artiet59

Could someone help - would osram cslpm1.tg or cslnm1.tg on channel 1 be impossible? I mean based on the driver, or whatever. I’m just thinking about the fact that Hank is good with entertaining requests, and how awesome something like that would be with like sst20 4000k or 2700k on channel 2.

I know the driver says it’s 9amp + direct drive so that sounds like too much for those little osrams, but I don’t know the difference of leds in series or parallel and how that works. Or if that is even a thing…

I have just what you’re describing in the mail – 9x CSLNM1.TG, and 3x SST-20 FA3 (4000K). Hank said it was no problem, and charged me the same as I would have paid for XP-L HI on Ch1. I’m going to be using the Molicel P42A, which should drive each triplet between 10A and 15A. Tests show that those emitters can withstand a lot – apparently small =/= delicate.

I love my D4Sv2 with CSLPM1.TG, which is perhaps ~20cd/lm. After some rough estimates by comparison, I’m expecting a similar number from this K9.3 Ch1, with slightly more power. The idea behind this build was to combine the D4Sv2’s capabilities with my FA3 FW3A in one body.

I’ll post again here when I’ve tested it out.

[killerjerick]

Just want to say thank you for this chart, I just received my 9.3 today and was searching for Anduril2 and couldn’t find any information other than the text-based manual that Toykeeper put out, so I’m thankful for this, I’ve already printed and put on my wall for ease of use, until I remember it as well as I know Anduril 1.

[Photon_Master]

@puglife2

@Photon Master

Or Elon Musk’s new 46800 battery. I wonder how long before we’ll see that bad boy in a flashlight…

it’s like a D cell on steroids

Wow that’s crazy. How about a can light with 3 of those bad boys. Might be enough to drive a bunch of SBT90.2’s

[SKV89]

I just received my K9.3 today and it doesn’t come with a manual. Anyone know where to download the manual?

[puglife2]

@SKV89

I just received my K9.3 today and it doesn’t come with a manual. :person_facepalming: Anyone know where to download the manual?

I have the manual but in exchange tell me your config :disguised_face:

http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril2/anduril-manual.txt

[SKV89]

Thanks. I got the XPL-HI 5D with yellow, which is actually amber. I love the Amber color. It looks more pleasing than red. It measures about CCT 1700k and actually has some color rendering! I will do some more measuring later after I charge batteries and when the room is dark.

[puglife2]

@SKV89

Thanks. I got the XPL-HI 5D with yellow, which is actually amber. I love the Amber color. It looks more pleasing than red. It measures about CCT 1700k and actually has some color rendering! I will do some more measuring later after I charge batteries and when the room is dark.

Noooo I hesitated between yellow and red when i ordered :cry: Mine is E21A 2000K for ch1 and red for ch2

thats mean i will have to buy another yep ch1 yellow and ch2 2700k

[Photon_Master]

@puglife2

@SKV89

Thanks. I got the XPL-HI 5D with yellow, which is actually amber. I love the Amber color. It looks more pleasing than red. It measures about CCT 1700k and actually has some color rendering! I will do some more measuring later after I charge batteries and when the room is dark.

Noooo I hesitated between yellow and red when i ordered :cry: Mine is E21A 2000K for ch1 and red for ch2

thats mean i will have to buy another yep ch1 yellow and ch2 2700k

Oh dude you’ll love 2000K / Red. I got that in black with a red button and I even carry it around the house. I have another one that’s 2700K E21A / Osram Yellow and actually don’t like the yellow

[lawallac]

@Photon Master

Here’s an interesting one… on a whim, I ordered a black K1 thrower with the 4500 lumen SBT90.2. Should be cool to see

On the page, Hank recommends the Samsung 40T. I’ve been using 30T’s in my 9.3 and lately 50E’s for more run time

Would the 40T work in the 9.3 and give me the best of both worlds? High performance like the 30T and capacity that is better although not as much as the 50E?

Thanks

You are going to love the K1 with the SBT90.2. If there was only a single light that I’d take with me, yeah right, it’d be that one. The K1 with the W1 is a amazing thrower, but it’s just not enough light. I actually like my green W1 a little better than the white W1 because it has more throw and it’s a greenish/yellowish beam- more yellow than in beamshots but still really cool to play with in fog. I put a W1 in an Emisar D1S, easy mod btw 5 min max, and I’d prefer this. The SBT90.2 K1 is one of those lights that even when you try it indoors you know it’s going to be awesome. Often throwers are kind of a letdown until you get to see what they can do with the needed space. But with 4500L and 420K cd it’s a top shelf light for sure.

Battery wise it’s up to you, I always have a lot of cells charged. I can’t tell the difference between using a 30T, 40T, or P42A. But the larger capacity does give a noticeable more amount of runtime. All that said I have a lot more 30Ts because I never use the lights long enough to test the capacity.

[TheAuditor]

I got mine today. Neutral white XPL and warm sst20. I am very happy with the output and am playing with Anduril2. The only minor issue is the finish is not perfect. One small scratch and a ln imperfection in the anodising. It matches my FT02s in output.
I might have to get another.

[Photon_Master]

@lawallac

@Photon Master

Here’s an interesting one… on a whim, I ordered a black K1 thrower with the 4500 lumen SBT90.2. Should be cool to see

On the page, Hank recommends the Samsung 40T. I’ve been using 30T’s in my 9.3 and lately 50E’s for more run time

Would the 40T work in the 9.3 and give me the best of both worlds? High performance like the 30T and capacity that is better although not as much as the 50E?

Thanks

You are going to love the K1 with the SBT90.2. If there was only a single light that I’d take with me, yeah right, it’d be that one. The K1 with the W1 is a amazing thrower, but it’s just not enough light. I actually like my green W1 a little better than the white W1 because it has more throw and it’s a greenish/yellowish beam- more yellow than in beamshots but still really cool to play with in fog. I put a W1 in an Emisar D1S, easy mod btw 5 min max, and I’d prefer this. The SBT90.2 K1 is one of those lights that even when you try it indoors you know it’s going to be awesome. Often throwers are kind of a letdown until you get to see what they can do with the needed space. But with 4500L and 420K cd it’s a top shelf light for sure.

Battery wise it’s up to you, I always have a lot of cells charged. I can’t tell the difference between using a 30T, 40T, or P42A. But the larger capacity does give a noticeable more amount of runtime. All that said I have a lot more 30Ts because I never use the lights long enough to test the capacity.

Wow man that’s great thank you. Maybe I can PM you some time to get some advice on other lights to get? I’m addicted to Emisar (:

[netprince]

Hey All… question about the k9.3…

I cant seem to configure any menu past the first prompt. For example, I want to lower the stepdown temperature, so I do:

3c from off, gives battery voltage
2c gives current temperature
7h light flickers while I enter the current temperature

Thats it! I should get another flicker delay to enter the stepdown temperature… but the light starts flashing the current temperature again. Anyone have any clues for me?

Thanks!

[Lux-Perpetua]

In the last step (7H), keep holding until you see two short blinks. The first blink is thermal calibration, the following two blinks is thermal configuration. If you release the button after two blinks, it starts stuttering to enter the stepdown temperature (30°C + n clicks to set the threshold).

My plan is to make it more comprehensible in the UI chart I drafted a few days ago.

[toobadorz]

@netprince

Hey All… question about the k9.3…

I cant seem to configure any menu past the first prompt. For example, I want to lower the stepdown temperature, so I do:

3c from off, gives battery voltage
2c gives current temperature
7h light flickers while I enter the current temperature

Thats it! I should get another flicker delay to enter the stepdown temperature… but the light starts flashing the current temperature again. Anyone have any clues for me?

Thanks!

That’s a difference between version 1 and 2 of Anduril. You are highly recommended to read the Anduril 2 manual carefully. There is a section describing this:

Configuration Menus
—————————-

Every config menu has the same interface. It has one or more options the user can configure, and it will go through them in order. For each menu item, the light follows the same pattern:

- Blink once, then go to a lower brightness. The user can keep holding the button to skip this menu item, or release the button to dive in and enter a new value.

- If the user released the button:

- Stutter or “buzz” quickly between two brightness levels for a few seconds. This indicates that the user can click one or more times to enter a number. It will keep buzzing until the user stops clicking, so there is no need to hurry.

After entering a number, or after skipping every menu item, it waits until the button is released then exits the menu. It should return to whatever mode the light was in before entering the config menu.

[netprince]

@Lux-Perpetua

In the last step (7H), keep holding until you see two short blinks. The first blink is thermal calibration, the following two blinks is thermal configuration. If you release the button after two blinks, it starts stuttering to enter the stepdown temperature (30°C + n clicks to set the threshold).

My plan is to make it more comprehensible in the UI chart I drafted a few days ago.

Thanks!

@toobadorz

@netprince

Hey All… question about the k9.3…

I cant seem to configure any menu past the first prompt. For example, I want to lower the stepdown temperature, so I do:

3c from off, gives battery voltage
2c gives current temperature
7h light flickers while I enter the current temperature

Thats it! I should get another flicker delay to enter the stepdown temperature… but the light starts flashing the current temperature again. Anyone have any clues for me?

Thanks!

That’s a difference between version 1 and 2 of Anduril. You are highly recommended to read the Anduril 2 manual carefully. There is a section describing this:

Configuration Menus
—————————-

Every config menu has the same interface. It has one or more options the user can configure, and it will go through them in order. For each menu item, the light follows the same pattern:

- Blink once, then go to a lower brightness. The user can keep holding the button to skip this menu item, or release the button to dive in and enter a new value.

- If the user released the button:

- Stutter or “buzz” quickly between two brightness levels for a few seconds. This indicates that the user can click one or more times to enter a number. It will keep buzzing until the user stops clicking, so there is no need to hurry.

After entering a number, or after skipping every menu item, it waits until the button is released then exits the menu. It should return to whatever mode the light was in before entering the config menu.

Thanks! I did read this but I think the first line thew me. “Every config menu has the same interface” sounds like no changes have been made since Anduril. Now that I read it again I see the difference.