Python. Not only is it powerful and one of the easiest languages to learn, it’s also #1 on Github these days.
Long ago, I would often write out programs in pseudo-code before translating it to actual code. I made the pseudo-code as simple as I could, since the point was just to work things out in my head before actually writing the real thing. But then one day, I discovered that my pseudo-code was executable, and had a name. It was called Python.
There were differences, of course. I didn’t actually invent Python. But it was strikingly similar to the “as simple as possible” ad-hoc language I had been using in my comments to describe algorithms. So I started learning Python, and it quickly became my favorite language. That was Python 1.5, and it’s now up to version 3.11… and still my favorite. So I’m happy to see it being used for virtually everything now, and topping the charts for usage stats.
Yes, that’s the configuration I’d recommend. Emisar D2 with a W1 emitter under a spot optic, next to the button… and a 519A 5700K dedomed in a frosted optic, closer to the middle of the light.
first I pulled the spring assembly out, it is only held by a tiny bit of adhesive:
note the white ring around the spring:
I dont think sanding the MAO off the inside of the tailcap, below the magnet, makes any difference. I also dont think sanding the MAO off the threads is helpful.
I sanded w 600 grit emery paper around the contact surface around the tailspring to remove the white ring (it may be a sticker), I then reinstalled the tailspring assembly w a dab of contact cement between the magnet and the tailcap, and also between the magnet and the pcb that holds the spring.:
I believe sanding the contact ring around the tailspring is the effective intervention. I will monitor for any future contact issues, but atm am confident the issue is solved.
(I made a poor choice of word “contact”, it can be confused with electrical contact… I should have just said I used an adhesive)
I used Elmer’s Rubber Cement because I had it handy… but it does not matter what type of glue is used imo… there is no electrical conductivity below the switch pcb. I chose the rubber cement partly because I was preserving the option to disassemble the tailswitch again, if needed.
Actually there is no need to remove the spring assembly from the tailcap
cleaning the tailcap electrical contact ring with 600 grit emery paper, can be accomplished without removing the spring assembly from the tailcap… although it might come loose during the process because it is held by such a tiny amount of adhesive, it is easy to reglue it… (it is not threaded in, there is no retaining ring)
I also recommend using the 600 grit emery paper on the end of the body tube, to be sure there is no MAO nor anodising around the face and corners of the end of the body tube at the tailcap…
I also cleaned the end of the body tube at the head end as well as the contact ring where the body tube meets the driver, also using a bit of 600 grit paper, held in some forceps…
Got mine about a month ago, slick little light. Have a small problem with mine
where the UI seems to get confused at times, when this happens, I have to discon/recon the battery which resets things then it’s ok for a while but, learning to live with it. No regrets on getting it though.
I feel the same way…
is your light the stone white color? (MAO)
(there is a rumor that MAO has more frequent contact issues than the anodised models… just checking for another data point from you)
the UI seems to get confused at times, when this happens, I have to discon/recon the battery which resets things then it’s ok for a while
suggest you clean the ends and edges of the body tube w 600 grit, or finer, emery paper… also the contact rings where those tube ends make contact in the tailcap and in the head… The goal is to remove any surface treatments on the body tube, that could be interfering w good contact… and removing any oxide from the contact rings inside the tail and head…
While I’m sure those members who are interested in your mods can generally understand what you’re doing, I want you to know that the depth of the details you typically provide with the projects you post here on BLF, truly makes a big difference in our ability to more clearly understand the technical details. Despite over 13 years of my own modding experience, I still benefit greatly from the added graphic details you include in your photos, along with your clearly written descriptions.
Kudos and keep up the great work from an appreciative member.
-KSM (the other one!)
Thanks, Toy Keeper! I think I’m going to delve into Python.
Do you have any recommendations for a good place to start? Are there some videos or online tutorials that can get one up to speed in a fairly decent amount of time?
You were just a couple letters off from answering your own question.
This isn’t the only tutorial, of course… but it’s the one I most often hear recommended.
Oh, and one other important thing. Python itself can do a lot of the teaching. If you ever want to know more about something, just use help(something) to see the built-in documentation. Like, if you wonder how a function works or what’s in a module or what data type an object is or … whatever. Just stick a help(some_object) in and it’ll start up an interactive documentation reader for that particular object.
Speaking of Dive, do you know of the Kuru Toga Dive? Terrific pencil.
Excellent, I’ll give that tutorial a shot. Good to know about that interactive help system. Once I’m fluent enough with the basics, probably the next logical thing is to identify real world programming problems and see how to solve them with Python.
Nope, haven’t heard of a Kuru Toga Dive pencil before. I don’t write on paper often, and when I do, it’s usually my Fisher rainbow space bullet. The Dive sounds like it does some cool stuff though, automatically keeping the right amount of lead sticking out the front without a need to knock it.
For writing, I mostly just splurge on keyboards. Like a Keychron Q65 with Durock T1 Silent “shrimp” switches and black+purple MT3 keycaps and heavily customized firmware. Here’s the current layout:
I forgot to mention earlier… one particular thing which is handy at first is help(__builtins__) to see what’s in the default namespace. Using help() by itself also offers a good starting point. And import this shows the Zen of Python.
> python
Python 3.7.3 (default, Jan 22 2021, 20:04:44)
[GCC 8.3.0] on linux
Type "help", "copyright", "credits" or "license" for more information.
>>> help()
Welcome to Python 3.7's help utility!
If this is your first time using Python, you should definitely check out
the tutorial on the Internet at https://docs.python.org/3.7/tutorial/.
Enter the name of any module, keyword, or topic to get help on writing
Python programs and using Python modules. To quit this help utility and
return to the interpreter, just type "quit".
To get a list of available modules, keywords, symbols, or topics, type
"modules", "keywords", "symbols", or "topics". Each module also comes
with a one-line summary of what it does; to list the modules whose name
or summary contain a given string such as "spam", type "modules spam".
help>
Really, you can just run python and then ask for help, and it should point you in the right direction.
No mine is the dark grey color. I have the white / UV model. What happens about 50% of the time is, while the white channel seems to work fine, if I switch over to the UV then, either leave it at the level it started at or, try to increase the output, it will start to flicker then go very dim. At this point, I cannot switch back to the white channel, all I can do is reset the battery. I will try the cleaning procedure you mentioned which makes sense because it acts like it’s a connection problem.
Thanks for the info.
Thanks for the details of your light color and failure mode… The first thing I would suggest you try, is removing the white ring around the spring:
no need to remove the spring from the light… you can erase the white ring with emery paper folded to a corner… held in some forceps or tweezers
Please share if that solves the contact problem.
I hope it helps.
Wow, looks like it worked. As soon as I started to clean the ring with the emery
paper, I could see a little discoloration on the paper. When I was finished
with the tail end, I also put a fine coat of conductive lube on that, the end of
the head section, and the threads on both ends. Gave it a try and the problem
appears to have been corrected.
I found this solution thanks to makeruvthings on Reddit. I also heard from another redditor privately that their D2 no longer flickers and is now working reliably also.
That’s what is so great about this site, if you’re having a problem with a given light,
more than likely someone else has had the same problem and may have a solution.
