The D3AA is smol! As mentioned it is almost exactly the same size as the Zebra SC53.
I’ve tested it with Eneloops and a random Varta AA alkaline and it works well with both of those. It does however, not work with Vapcell H10 button tops because they’re too long to fit. This is disappointing as I’d bought them specifically for the D3AA. On the up-side, the USB-equipped 14500s that came with my Loop SK03 and Lumintop Tool do fit, and they work even though they’re protected. If the SK03 and Tool have LVP I can use the Vapcells in those.
I know mostly Hank lights are not compatible with protected cells, does the fact that the D3AA seems to work fine with them mean that I’m OK to use the Lumintop? If not, guess I need to order some flat-tops.
I’ve not had much of a play with it yet, certainly haven’t configured it how i like it, but initial impressions are excellent.
I never got that. I know where my lights have been. And if you dealt with as much cleaning solution, polycarbonate swarf, battery terminal corrosion, and whatever my car’s engine block has accumulated a layer of over the last 39 years as I do, you would not be putting that light in your mouth.
Aside from size, the main reason for no protected cells is discharge rate. Drawing 5A through most of those USB cells will trip the circuit. The Lumintop is okay for 5A surges and 4A constant, but most 14500’s max out at 3A before cutting out; about two-thirds of what a D3AA will draw on Turbo. If you’re okay with the risk of tripping the circuit at higher levels, then the Lumintop cell will be fine, though other similar cells may have issues.
Of course, you’ll also have lower mAh from that “14430 with a funny hat”, as well as higher self-discharge… but those who want USB-C often consider any price worthwhile.
If there was a version of the D2 that traded dual-channel for boost then the DW3AA would be less attractive. The D2 has some serious limitations that a DW3AA would not. The D2 would still have it’s place as it’s still rather small and has the dual-channel uniqueness.
I wouldn’t count on a DW3AA either, but for different reasons. I think the biggest barrier really is how much time Hank has to make it happen. Hanks already got a lot on his plate, and I think designing a new head just won’t fit in his schedule for the foreseeable future.
That’s make a lot of sense. I’ve almost ordered D2 but big drawback for me is that only works with flat tops. If will be introduced updated version with only longer tube it will be great and doesn’t involve a lot of enigneering.
Hank can and will modify them for use with buttontops if you ask nicely. Personally, I prefer flattops anyways since I like knowing that my 14500 battery is 50mm and my 18650’s are 65mm and do not consider adding the resistance of extraneous components to be a good thing even if the resistance is minimal. Is that a 2mm button or a 3mm? Do I need to dig through reviews and spec sheets to know if a particular battery will fit? Too much hassle. And having clamping force (for lack of a better term) vary with battery length while possibly inducing extra metal fatigue in the springs required to accommodate a variety of lengths has it’s own problems, though less so with 14500’s that only vary a little compared to the differences between protected and unprotected 18650/21700 cells.
Just give me a light with decent RPP circuitry and keep battery buying and spring design considerations simple.
That’s right, if it possible to get longer tube it is great. I’ll write to him after this D3AA crazy rush
Personally I don’t like to be limited to only flat tops, because I’ve bunch of both types. And D3AA according to news will handle all types with no problem.
Place the solder braid into the bottom of the tailcap and wedge it under the threads.
If necessary, fold the solder braid double before bending it into the C shape.
Screw the tailcap on tightly.
This simple workaround can add a couple mm to the length of the battery compartment without affecting the light’s function. It might allow you to use button tops. Unscrew the light at the head to change battery.
Thank you, that’s good to know. I’m using the H10s now I know that they do fit, but I have turbo disabled on my D4K and D3AA and for most uses find that I don’t need more than step 4 of 7.
In some ways I think the USB charging would be helpful on the 14500, but then as you say it does come at the cost of capacity and I do have built-in voltage check, a travel charger, a spare H10 and can use AAs so I don’t really need it.
I also prefer flat top 14500, the Vapcell H10 flat top is actually short at 49.15mm, a Duracell optimum is 50.5mm, Eneloop AA white 2019 is 50.1mm, while a Vapcelll H10 button top is 51.5mm, based on the ones I have.
I assume the Button tops have become more popular because most brands use mechanical RPP which seems quite the norm for AA sized flashlights and thus they could could care less if the flat top 14500 cells work or not, so probably there are more button top H10 Vapcell in possession of people than flat top.
I agree adding too much pressures on components rather bad in the long term or what we saw in some cases, the bottom of certain cells get bent in a little.
At first it almost seems like it wouldn’t work, I had the same impression. But if you tighten it hard (well) it will turn on, and if you leave the cell in for like a couple of days something will loosen up and after that it worked much easier to screw and unscrew the tailcap. So far I have not seen the cell bottom to be bent.
Thank you, that does seem to be the case with mine, something seems to have loosened up and it goes together easily now. I noticed when I got the H10s that they were just a tiny bit too long to fit into my battery case, which was mildly annoying. My spare’s now in a case for an 18650.
So far I love the D3AA, output seems to be more or less the same as my D4K although obviously the battery won’t last as long. I do tend to mostly use it at lower levels and for fairly short periods though. The moonlight mode is so low on the D3AA that I’ve actually bumped it up a few notches! I do wish that the aux lights weren’t quite so bright when set on low, but I’ve set them to red and that’s much nicer by the bed.
