[quote=ch1ir]
Mule means no reflector or optic.
Something like Amutorch AT40 mule Version for epample or Zebralights Headlamps have Mule Versions
Woah, thank you, I was assuming Iād get 2 or 3 sarcastic posts, guess I need to join the mule club, Hank thanks for always being on top of the FL game
I ho.pe Emisarās e tail switch is more reliable then the FW3A. While mine eventually settled in, I never really trust it.
Need a Crenelated Bezelā¦to see the glow when bezel down and the tail cap trit at the same timeā¦ 
This looks awesome!!!
Sooā¦I still have to order a D4V2, and now this? :o
Seems like I will go bankrupt sooner than I thought 
Those lights look awesome 
Looking forward to the E21A version
Is this 18650?
Hank knows what we want,the Nichia E21A option is interesting.
Looks like Hank's sticky finish - should solve the grip problem. Wish it had a deep carry clip though. Guess this was TK's mystery output test, since the output matches - figured it was a quad.
Look'n good! I'm sure Hank won't release it with contact or switch issues - he's the one that should have done this light format from day one 
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Hank, if possible, can you also manufacture switches without slot for a tritium vial?
Hope the E21A 4000K is a neutral-rosy D220 bin, not the neutral-green D240.
I must have missed that. What kind of output was the mystery test showing? Iād like to know how this compares with the D4 on power.
Great news about the successor of the D1S! I never bought one until it was too late.
It would be nice if the D1S had a short 18350 tube Option.
The new Emisar/Noctigon looks very nice. I think that the spring for the inner tube will be much better than on the FW3A where the inner tube doesnāt make contact if you donāt screw the battery tube on tightly.
I LOVE this :heart_eyes:
A 5A driver should pair well with it, too.
+100
Iām interested in output, will it be same as d4v2, what about mule and E21A
Is this an 18650 or 21700 light?
Awesome. I didnāt know it would have a E21A version. Iāll probably have to get one of those. 
The FW3A holds all its pressure on its inner tube while the outer tube can move a bit. It is sensitive to very small manufacturing errors. If it has the wrong amount of pressure, it doesnāt work right. Also, loosening the head doesnāt actually cut powerā¦ it just disconnects the switch.
The KR4 is built more like other lights, keeping all the pressure in the outer tube. Inside it has a spring which transfers the switch signal, and it stays connected even if the other parts are loose. Power is disconnected by loosening the head or tail, but the switch stays connected.
Iāve only gotten to test one, but it has been very reliable.
Also, the KR4 can safely have its tailcap removed. It does not fall apart like the FW3A tailcap.
Yes, it is pretty grippy. The narrow part of the tube is covered in small grooves which provide friction. It is not the rough rock-like finish of the D1S. Instead it is more like the machine marks of bare metalā¦ but more pronounced to provide more grip.
About the clip, itās pretty decent but I would probably change the design a little. Itās pretty comfortable to use and it lands at exactly the right place, but the tongue sticks out a bit far. So Iād probably make the tip shorter and shallower.
Or perhaps add an option for a deep carry clip, as you said. Iāve always liked the style Olight used in ~2016 or so, with most of the clip straight and parallel to the body, then a dip and a small tongue at the end. I like this shape (but as a ring-in clip instead of a clip-on clip):
The KR4ās performance is impressive enough that I thought I made a measurement error and had to triple-check the results. It can sustain much higher brightness than a D4 or FW3A. In my testing, it performs more like the larger D4S. However, itās not like any of those because its runtime graph is almost completely flat. It varies by less than 0.3% regardless of battery voltage.
With mild fan cooling, I measured the sustainable brightness (at 45 C) of a D4v2-XPG2 at about 630 to 690 lm. The larger D4Sv2-XPG2 measured at 1030 to 1160 lm during its stable regulation phase. Both had sort of a sawtooth pattern while the FET output gradually falls and then thermal regulation bumps up the power to keep the temperature steady. Meanwhile, the KR4-SST20 held rock steady at 1100 lm.
This is despite the KR4 using a high-CRI LED, as far as I can tellā¦ while the D4 / D4S did not.
Additionally, the KR4 is regulated up to about 5 A, which on my prototype is about 1750 lm. The D4 is only regulated up to 350 mA (about 140 lm).
Plus a million for an Olight s mini style clip (as you said though, tube-mounted a la fw3x not clip-on). āDeepā part to go to very slightly before the tailcap ends to ensure tail stand.