Just for fun.
My Emisar D4S beam shot on the ceiling. I was surprised to see this — what did I do to my D4S to get this pattern? I do use a wide angle Ledil Angie optic, but I don’t think this is a main cause…
see 2nd pic here for answer: New member from London, getting a first 18650
You cook your optic with a roll of toilet paper? 
I just attempted to flash the Anduril onto my D4. This was my first attempt ever at flashing a driver on a flashlight so I don’t really know what I’m doing.
Result: TOTAL FAILURE.
When I tried to run the app initially it seemed to work fine. typing AVRdude at the command prompt displayed the list of stuff AVRdude can do. But when I tried to flash an ATiny85 I got a message about USBasp not being detected or something like that.
After a few attempts at this, the result changed. Instead when I tried to run the command line for AVRdude a pop-up window appeared saying “this App can’t run on your PC”. Along with a similar message at the command line prompt.
I’m running Windows 10.
Need a very detailed step-by-step guide for dummies on how to get this thing working on Windows 10. 
And what’s worse… now that I read up on some of the 1-star reviews of AVRdude, people are complaining that the app messed with their system and broke many programs. GAAAAH! I hope this didn’t happen to me. I have no idea if that happened. I sure hope not. AVRdude seemed to work at first from the command line then abruptly stopped working.
Are there any safer alternative programs to AVRdude for flashing the ATiny?
Hi,
I would like to mod the Emisar D4s.
I like brighter AUX-LEDs.
The series resistor ist marked with 122, so it should be a 1200Ohm resistor.
Whats about, when I bridge the resistor.
Does the MCU limits the current for the AUX-LEDs, or does the AUX-LEDs burn imediately?
If this works, can I use this a long time or only a few seconds?
otherwise I would like to replace the SMD Resistor against a SMD-Trimmer, maybe like this one, which I already bought:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/50-St-SMD-Trimmer-1k-Murata-POZ3AN-1-102N-T00-M199/131386392464?\_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20170511121231%26meid%3D6f86ce28a4784b398d456f4ad59083ca%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D13%26sd%3D201019428139%26itm%3D131386392464&\_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&\_trkparms=pageci%3A9872844b-1fa4-11e9-a49a-74dbd180291e|parentrq%3A7ea1820e1680a9cda0546b7cffff638b|iid%3A1
Thanks.
I’m unable to remove the driver from my D4, and I haven’t tried flashing on the D4S yet — so I haven’t flashed on those Emisars yet…
However, I’ve been able to successfully flash Anduril firmware on the BLF Q8.
I’m using Windows 10 (64-bit) and AVRDude works there.
Can you point out where you got AVRDude? Mine indicates AVRDude v6.0.1 <http://savannah.nongnu.org/projects/avrdude/\>
I think I installed it from a package called “MHV_AVR_Tools_20131101.exe”.
But it looks like there is an AVRDude v6.3 from the above website (which I have yet to test).
I like AVRDUDESS as its a bit more idiot proof if you want a GUI, but really you need to do some reading. You can kill your D4S if you flash it wrong and it wont be recoverable without specialty tools.
Check out the first post in this thread: Flashlight Firmware Repository
Look through the readme and read the getting started links.
Im thinking you never installed a driver for your USBASP and the links above should have the correct drivers.
I use simple batch files for flashing lights with AVRDUDESS and I have it broken up based on if im flashing fuses(potentially dangerous, only needs done once) or flashing firmware (Mostly safe)
These are both for ATtiny 85s.
FW:
cd “C:\Program Files (x86)\AVRDUDESS”
avrdude -c usbasp -p t85 -u -U flash:w:C:\Users\username\Desktop\builds.local\1.hex:a
So you would type “FW-ATtiny85.bat FWNAME”
Fuses:
cd “C:\Program Files (x86)\AVRDUDESS”
avrdude -c usbasp -p t85 -u -U lfuse:w:0xe2:m -U hfuse:w:0xdf:m -U efuse:w:0xff:m
Type “Set-ATtiny85Fuses.bat”
I’m hesitating about flashing anduril in my D4S, I have the hardware and I flashed the SP36 sucesfully, so the procedure won’t be difficult
Apart from the funny blinky modes, both firmwares are similar, aren’t they? I can’t find any info about the aux leds, can they still be configured with 7 clicks from off or lockout?
I Did it, only tested it one or two minutes, worked well:
Low AUX LED output is still low, nearly not visible.
High AUX LED output is much brighter than original with serial resistor.
The AUX LEDs are still adjustable, its not in the graphic but it is however in the Anduril Manual.
Anduril gets you the fun blinky modes, stepped ramp if you want it and configurable ceilings for the stepped/ramping modes.
So what that means is that the basic ramp or steps you can have max out at say max regulated 7135, and a double click goes Full turbo.
If you dont care about any of that, just let it be.
Hello, i just received my D4S SST-20 5000k, and globally i love it!
As other already said the beam is a bit greenish in the lower mod, nothing too dramatic in my opinion but i'm not a tint maniac ( no offense there 
) i just like my lights around 5000k and i'm ok with 65/70 cri.
Inside, on a white wall i can noticed the greenish tint, but outside not really.
At higher output level the green is gone and the beam is whiter than my blf Q8, i like it.
I was a bit worry about the heat generation of the SST-20 5000k, on turbo the light get hot pretty quickly, that was expected, but i thought it would be way worst than that, see the video below.
Here is a crappy beam shot in lower mode, left to right : Emisar D4S SST-20 5000K > BLF Q8 XP-L HD 4750/5000K > Astrolux S1 XPL 3D 5000K > Convoy S2 XM-L 6500K
And a 3 min thermal test video with an ir thermometer and no cooling. the light was calibrated before the test at my ambient temp, 21° Celsius.
The ceiling temp was set at 60° Celsius.
i'll keep it set @60° ceiling for the moment, outside temps are around 2° Celsius so it's a nice hand warmer. 
But during spring/summer a ceiling @50/55° should be more reasonable.
That's my first Emisar light, and now i do understand why peoples love their products so much.
Thanks to this thread i pushed the button for the D4S and i'm glad i did it. 
Only problem, now i want more Emisar flashlights. }D
the stock firmware in the D4S also has the stepped ramping and adjustable botton and ceiling for the ramp
Anyway, I just flashed anduril, I like the extra funny strobe modes
Looks like that is one of the problems. I never installed the USBasp driver. However, there appear to be some other possible problems:
Yes. The stock RampingIOS V3 firmware is actually a copy of Anduril with some things removed or shuffled around. The main usage modes are identical, and they only differ in terms of the extras (3+ clicks).
Is there a reason to get the XPL HI and pay the premium instead of going for the SST20 if I am going on both for the 6500k? What is the advantage (if any) on the XPL HI?
I was like you 3 weeks ago, the sst-20 5000k vs xp-l hi 5000k dilemma.
I read a lot about those 2 emitters and i finally ordered the stt-20 and i'm happy with it, under 60$ with a battery, for this awesome product is a very good deal.
In my opinion since sst-20 led are available, the 15$ upgrade for an XP-l hi is the cost for max efficiency, less heat generation, less amp draw from the cell with fet driver, and no greenish tint on low level modes.
Some peoples seem to hate the greenish tint, so that could be a deal breaker for the sst-20, but personally it doesn't bother me, only noticed it on a white wall in lower modes.
SST-20 have also a bit more throw so if it's what you are looking for, that could help you with your choice.
First Emisar light for me, and i was really impressed by the quality of this D4S, now i got a new dilemma, should i order another one with a different body color/aux led? :D
I think i will, and this time i'll try the XP-L Hi. })
I’d love to see a 21700 tube for the D4S
I can guarantee it doesnt come wired correctly. I know mine didnt.
The easiest way to orient the ATtiny is to look for the corner marking. That divot indicates Pin 1.
Also, if you have male DuPont connectors, File the end at a taper and it slips in the flashing holes on the D4S much easier.
+1. Always nice to have more options and having a 21700 tube would make the D4S a bit lighter and slightly more portable when required.
I would also prefer D4S with 21700.
I wonder if 21700 cell technology will be the one to keep growing with Tesla and vaping using it more and more. I’m glad that there are some solid 26650 choices out there but a quick and nonscientific look around leads me to believe that a bunch of new and high-performing 21700 cells have popped up recently.