Is the tint rosy now?
There are lot of comments already, and I did not checked every, so forgive me if my question was already answered.
How driver is fit into head? Is it glued to?
Yes, the driver is glued in.
Fortunately, there isn’t as much need to remove the driver in the D4S as in previous models. It has spring-side reflashing pads or vias, so firmware changes don’t require any soldering. Emitter and MCPCB swaps, and aux LED mods, don’t need the driver to come out either. So at least two common types of mods are not affected by the glue.
I don’t really see any rosiness, but it is very neutral. Everything looks the way it should to my eyes (though a little rosiness would be nice). I believe the current 3000k & 4000k SST-20’s that Hank has are in the first bin at or above BBL. I’m guessing/hoping that combining them lands it right about on the line. When I get time, I’ll set up my photo gear and take some controlled comparison shots.
Mike
Thank you for answer.
I’m aware of vias on spring side, but I was rather thinking of D4S as an host for mods.
Actually I have some ideas in mind and I would like to calculate possibility of making them.
First one is to simply replace FET + 3 with FET + 1 + N custom made for D4S. I think that attiny85 can handle one more PWM channel with some pin shifts.
Second would be an interesting project. I was thinking of making 4 led light with combination of serial/parallel leds with configuration 2+2 that would run on 6V. This would require boost driver and custom made MCPCB. It would be really nice to have possibility to mix 2 different led types (for example Samsung’s LH351D with Luminus SST-20) with proper power distribution.
Is there any easy way to remove glued driver?
Hank, do you think it would be feasible to offer 21700 tubes for the D4S (and maybe even D4)? I'm sure there would be quite some interest into it. The D4S would perform even better with two Samsung 40T or Molicell P42A batteries in parallel instead of the best 26650 battery. Moreover, one would gain additional runtime with 2x 4.000mAh in parallel. What's your opinion about it?
Example for comparison (Nitecore EC4GTS tube):
Picture taken from this review: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/52924
Cheers,
Thomas
Tubes alone just won’t do it, the larger tube would have a larger dia thread and be unable to screw onto an existing head, so the entire light would have to be redesigned. That side by side “tube” is actually a complete light that is a unibody, cast aluminum construction, a different beast altogether…
Okay, how about at least a single 21700 tube instead of the 26650 tube?
Put the 21700 inside the 26650 tube. It isn’t that difficult to do.
It would be great to know which 26650 lights have enough spring length to accept a 21700.
Are you sure it is that easy? I mean the springs will already be compressed a lot when using an unprotected 26650 battery inside the D4S. I could image the 21700 might fit but with extreme tension onto the terminals and maybe the tailcap cannot be fully tightened. Is there a difference in length with the magnetic tailcap and the one without magnet?
A copper wire such as that removed from a 12Ga Romex house wiring can be shaped into a circle and used to make an extension between the battery tube and head/battery tube and tail cap. Simple, really.
Just curious if anyone has had a D4S or any Emisar break from a hard drop. My D4S is what I always grab first lately maybe because it is the newest but is also a great light.
My D4S has survived with only a short drop so far.
One of my D4 has had so many hard drops on concrete I know would have killed some of my other lights.
So do you know of any Emisars breaking from drops as mine have been very reliable?
I’ve only heard of one D4s damaged from dropping , I’ve had my D4 for about a year & a half & dropped it a few times but it still works fine.
The parts which are probably most likely to break are the lens and the switch wires. Glass is, of course, fairly easy to crack. The switch wires are just thin and attached to really tiny pads.
I suppose if it was heated up from turbo, it could potentially also have the LED domes knocked off by force, depending on the LED type. Some are fairly easy to de-dome by accident when they’re hot. XP-L HD is particularly prone to this.
There really just isn’t a lot of product out there that survives hard knocks without damage. A brick breaks, a knife get’s chunks out of it’s edge, maybe a rubber ball survives well? Doesn’t cast a lot of light though…
For those looking for an alternative to the Shockli 26650, I just measured two Vapcell 5500mah (Red wrapper) and got 5,991mah and 5,971 mah on my Xtar VP4 Dragon Plus. I just received these direct from Vapcell. These measurements are consistent with what I got with the Shockli 26650 from MtnElectronics from over a year ago measured when they were brand new. Strangely Vapcell said these cell capacities are not as high as they used to be. My test shows them to be just the same as the old Shocklis :+1:
How is the SST-20 3000K tint? Is it similar to CREE 7C4?
Apparently the tint is greener at low output and more red at higher output which is a huge bummer…
Maybe the Nichia 219C might be a better option?
Nichia 219C 5000K is very green. If you don’t want green XPL-Hi is the best option.
Can confirm. The XP-L HI version is very nice.
I’d recommend a high-mAh cell to go with it though, like the Shockli 5500 mAh model, because there’s pretty much no benefit from the higher-amp lower-mAh cells unless most of your use is on turbo. Higher-mAh gives more runtime on the practical levels where it’s most likely to be used.