Emisar D4S review

The Lady knows her stuff and we are smack in the middle of her zone, who better to answer here?

On these drivers the modes are all carefully placed according to the original design, unless you were going to remap the whole layout changing the regulation chips values by stacking would just be sort of silly. Too high and the regulation wouldn’t exist anyway as you’d exceed the cell. And unless you’re an old hand at stacking the 7135’s this is probably not the best driver to learn on, due to the aforementioned skewing of the layout. And the room mentioned is not about board real estate but clearance between the pcb and emitter shelf…

I’ve stacked as many chips as anyone here and I don’t recommend it on this type of driver. YMMV

Momentary strobe:


I’m considering D4Sv2 but having already v1 I’m trying to justify it to myself :smiling_imp:

Once I had two pieces of V1: XP-L HI and SST-20. I stayed with XP-L because I liked the tint better and it took more time to heat it up.
Since v2 has even greater variety of emiters I feel kind of lost. The thing I’m missing to make a decission are graphs of runtime vs output.

It’s just my assumption that SST-20 will perform with max output for shorter time than XP-Ls. But how does it reffer to XP-G2? Nichia?

If there was a graph for each option I’d more than happy but I failed to find it.
Can anybody help?

Alternatively - can someone put the leds names in order (ascending/descending) to figure out which produces most heat, which least?

My final aim is to choose the option which allows for highest output ofter stabilizing temperature.

Kinda nice idea. Maybe if you want to strobe someone and candle light mode goes on it will make the situation more romantic :blush:

you have strange problems, the strobe is remembered, just click click hold

Everything you never knew that you didn’t want to know is right here.

A slightly simpler summary was posted here.

Thanks, familiar with the first link, the second not. I know all these figures and numbers can be found in datasheets, but that’s not exactly what I was asking for.

Again, do you know which led stabilize on highest output?

That would be XP-L.

XP-L HD for most lumens, or XP-L HI for a brighter hotspot. I find XP-L HI to be the best option for most Emisar lights.

Okay, it sounds like you’re looking for a custom-designed UI.

For that degree of customization, you should probably get a copy of the source code and read through the guide for how to use the FSM UI toolkit. It exists to make it easier for people to create their own interfaces.

The “Baton” UI might be a good starting point, since it already has the stepped ramp as you described, it’s a good introduction to the tools, and it may only need a strobe added.

Dunno why the High CRI lights always have to be 4000K now, they just look yellow outside apart from the 219B R9080 which is pure violet. That said my S43 5000K Nichia looks green

Sofirn has been putting out some fairly neutral tint LH351D 5000K emitters, eg in the Wurkos WK30.

Thanks TK. :+1:

Brighter hotspot than SST-20?

Depends on if it’s a high-CRI SST-20 or a high-output one. Both are a bit more throwy than XP-L HI in terms of cd/lm, but the 4000K and warmer ones with high CRI have so much less output that they have less throw than XP-L HI. The 5000K and colder ones typically out-throw XP-L HI a little though.

However, for the highest sustainable output after stabilizing, XP-L HI typically performs better. It makes less heat.



It’s clear that you need a strobe mode you can quickly and reliably access regardless of what mode you’re in when the dogs attack.

Years ago I had this same dog problem with an intimidating standard poodle (The standards are BIG!) who bit me when I was on my motorcycle. I needed to go by his house several times a week so I decided to use a new pepper spray I recently bought, one of the first commercially available pepper sprays in the US, a product called “Repel”. So, next day I turned onto Fido’s block, he saw me and started running til he got close and I gave him a short spray in the face. He jumped up and spun around while I gunned the engine out of there. The next day…same routine, but this time when he saw me coming he ran! I figured the eye injury was temporary since I tested it on a dumb macho neighbor who volunteered.

If all else fails, perhaps you might consider pepper spray as an alternative. Good luck.

I just noticed that the most recent versions of Andruil for most lights seem to be dated 9-28, but the latest for the D4SV2 is from 8-28. Does anyone know whether that is the same version?

Right, sorry. I keep forgetting to merge that now that it’s public. It wasn’t included with the other build targets because I hadn’t merged it yet.

Okay, done.

Many thanks!

Sorry for the dumb. I haven’t used my light (D4S v1) in quite a while. When I went to use it yesterday, it wouldn’t turn off. It’s stuck on. The only way to get it to turn off is to unscrew the tail cap. Pressing and holding the button or clicking it is doing nothing. Nothing changes (brightness stays the same). Is there some way to reset this light? I don’t know what I did to get it stuck on.