Kinda nice idea. Maybe if you want to strobe someone and candle light mode goes on it will make the situation more romantic 
you have strange problems, the strobe is remembered, just click click hold
Everything you never knew that you didn’t want to know is right here.
A slightly simpler summary was posted here.
Thanks, familiar with the first link, the second not. I know all these figures and numbers can be found in datasheets, but that’s not exactly what I was asking for.
Again, do you know which led stabilize on highest output?
That would be XP-L.
XP-L HD for most lumens, or XP-L HI for a brighter hotspot. I find XP-L HI to be the best option for most Emisar lights.
Okay, it sounds like you’re looking for a custom-designed UI.
For that degree of customization, you should probably get a copy of the source code and read through the guide for how to use the FSM UI toolkit. It exists to make it easier for people to create their own interfaces.
The “Baton” UI might be a good starting point, since it already has the stepped ramp as you described, it’s a good introduction to the tools, and it may only need a strobe added.
Dunno why the High CRI lights always have to be 4000K now, they just look yellow outside apart from the 219B R9080 which is pure violet. That said my S43 5000K Nichia looks green
Sofirn has been putting out some fairly neutral tint LH351D 5000K emitters, eg in the Wurkos WK30.
Thanks TK. :+1:
Brighter hotspot than SST-20?
Depends on if it’s a high-CRI SST-20 or a high-output one. Both are a bit more throwy than XP-L HI in terms of cd/lm, but the 4000K and warmer ones with high CRI have so much less output that they have less throw than XP-L HI. The 5000K and colder ones typically out-throw XP-L HI a little though.
However, for the highest sustainable output after stabilizing, XP-L HI typically performs better. It makes less heat.
Thanks
[quote=Osaka_Musika]
It’s clear that you need a strobe mode you can quickly and reliably access regardless of what mode you’re in when the dogs attack.
Years ago I had this same dog problem with an intimidating standard poodle (The standards are BIG!) who bit me when I was on my motorcycle. I needed to go by his house several times a week so I decided to use a new pepper spray I recently bought, one of the first commercially available pepper sprays in the US, a product called “Repel”. So, next day I turned onto Fido’s block, he saw me and started running til he got close and I gave him a short spray in the face. He jumped up and spun around while I gunned the engine out of there. The next day…same routine, but this time when he saw me coming he ran! I figured the eye injury was temporary since I tested it on a dumb macho neighbor who volunteered.
If all else fails, perhaps you might consider pepper spray as an alternative. Good luck.
I just noticed that the most recent versions of Andruil for most lights seem to be dated 9-28, but the latest for the D4SV2 is from 8-28. Does anyone know whether that is the same version?
Right, sorry. I keep forgetting to merge that now that it’s public. It wasn’t included with the other build targets because I hadn’t merged it yet.
…
Okay, done.
Many thanks!
Sorry for the dumb. I haven’t used my light (D4S v1) in quite a while. When I went to use it yesterday, it wouldn’t turn off. It’s stuck on. The only way to get it to turn off is to unscrew the tail cap. Pressing and holding the button or clicking it is doing nothing. Nothing changes (brightness stays the same). Is there some way to reset this light? I don’t know what I did to get it stuck on.
On this thread we’ve talked mainly about the sophisticated inner workings of the D4S (thank you TK!), but now I’d like to mention something about the ergonomics of this beautifully designed light, specifically the button, of which there are at least three important advantages.
1) The “hump” which provides instant tactile identification of the button’s location, something that is lacking and often a problem in many small lights with side buttons.
2) The recessed button which significantly guards against accidental activation. (I belt-carry the light in a small perfectly fitting pouch, much smaller and more convenient than the Bianchi 7307)
3) The anti-roll function of the “hump”, very important if you put the light, body-down, on any surface that is even slightly slanted.
These seemingly minor features add greatly to the comfort and convenience of using the D4S. Actually, point one is crucial in a situation where instant activation is required.
What pouch are you using and where did you get it? I’ve been looking for a better way to carry mine and would love any info you can give me.
I agree with you about the ergonomics of the D4S. I wish its features were available in a smaller form factor, because it is a lot to carry, but the upside is the way it fits the hand. The grip, the button, and the user interface all come together in an amazing way with this light.
What about the D4 / D4v2?