Yea, he insists on it not having LVP :person_facepalming:
Lets end this right here, once for all.
I just made a quick setup, and made a time lapse showing the LVP kick in.
The setup:
My 18650 “LVP” cell that’s always almost discharged, to test LVP, in a battery holder. Powering a D4S.
The blue 18650 in the background is powering the voltmeter. This makes sure the voltmeter is not drawing power from the main battery, skewing the results (pls ignore the broken led in the voltmeter )
To make it a worst case scenario, the AUX led was set to High. At full charge 4.2V, the aux (+MCU) draws 1,24mA.
As the LVP kicks in, the battery is at 2,87V. Notice the power draw from the aux is so low, the battery even bounces back a little. (and that 18650 is a 10+ year old cell)
At 2.87V the current draw was 0,0211mAh. And lets say, that there would be 100mAh left in the battery. That’s still over half a year to use up the remaining juice. And as the voltage gets even lower, so will the power draw.
SO YES, the D4S HAS LVP!
And no, the AUX doesn’t (but the power draw is so freggin low)
When in the adjustment mode for min and max ramp ceilings, does anyone here know how many clicks it takes to have maximum regulated brightness as my high ramp ceiling? Often times when using the D4S I will spend time ramping up and down trying to get it as bright as possible just before the flash and keep the level there but then end up using some other modes and loose my spot, then have to do it all over again which isn’t terrible by any means but I thought I would ask around and see if anybody has the magic number of clicks…
Loosen the tail cap to disengage the cell, click the button, tighten the tail cap… turn it on and it’s at the max regulated brightness. You can do this in about 2 seconds or less once you get used to it as it only takes a slight twist of the tail cap to disengage.
Then you don’t have to click the button Nev, I don’t have my D4S anymore (wouldn’t have mattered as I always immediately flash to Anduril) but all my other Emisar lights require that button click to defeat memory, virtually no time lost at any rate so if it works to not click the button it’s even easier… just break contact and retighten. (as stated, I always flash to Anduril as soon as the light comes in so… grain of salt and all that) Sure doesn’t hurt anything to click the e-switch on a broken circuit.
Edit: For clarification… EOS is a limited version of Anduril, the bells and whistles have been capped. I LOVE Candlelight and Lightning modes so I always flash to Anduril these days on any e-switch light I get, regardless of what driver it comes with. I’ll change whatever I need to change to make it happen. I avoided e-switch lights for years as I don’t like how they keep power to the board at all times and merely sleep, but Anduril has such low drain and good lockout mode so I use it. I’ve built more high power lights than most people have ever seen flashlights. So I am biased in how I do things, it’s true…
Thank you DB Custom, I had no idea the D4S could do this, very handy info there! Also, thank you SammysHP, this is exactly what I wanted to do…much appreciated everybody!
Yep it won’t hurt , I was just wondering why you said click the button ,I like ramping v2 , it seems odd to me that temperature check is only a triple click & a double click on RampingIOS but it’s triple click ,double click , double click ,double click again on anduril ,it can be a bit awkward & slow with a hot torch & sensitive hands (that that I’ve got sensitive hands) to see what temp it is.
The temperature check feature is not something I ever use, it’s essentially useless to ME to know what the internal temperature is. I build em hot, have for a long time, and have many lights that are too hot to hold within 8-12 seconds. I push limits, it’s what I do, started out trying to see what a light was capable of so then compromise could be made with the knowledge of where the ceiling is. Now there are manufacturer’s that build em hot like I have for years, the problem is these lights are not for everybody. It takes some personal attention to deal with a light that is pushed to it’s limits. I have been called Dr. Frankendale for good reason, after all. And yes, I’ve melted internal components, fried traces on switch PCB’s, burned springs, fried LED’s, melted optics and ate up the life expectancy of Li-ion cells in short order. I learned a long time ago that I do it for the exercise in modding, more than the need of a high power light. I like removing as much resistance as possible, regardless of the length it requires me to go to. And then it’s on to the next one. lol (which explains the 230+ lights I have all around me)
)
