It’s a better mood light with Anduril installed. That adds, among other things, candle mode. Works well with a traffic wand or something over the bezel.
You should be able to check the accuracy by comparing known levels to what the computed ramp says. For example, level 85 is the 3x7135 mode and should be about 400 lm with XP-L HI emitters.
I’d suggest checking a few points along the curve, like 1, 40, 85, 120, and 150. Then adjust the parameters until all of those line up with the expected values.
Because the calculator and the actual light won’t necessarily agree, it may be necessary to split the ramp into two parts and calculate them separately. Probably levels 1 to 85 in one segment, and 86 to 150 in another segment. It’s a little tricky getting the calculated shape to match, which is why I haven’t already made a reference chart.
Additionally, the 219c curve will be different because all its FET values are multiplied by 0.8. This is because Hank was getting complaints about 219c emitters burning themselves out on turbo, so the 219c “turbo” is 80% power.
Another solution until the pogo pins arrive: just use a piece of breadboard with some crooked pin headers as the programming vias are not aligned on a 100mil grid.
It may not be the best solution, but it’s faster than connecting all 6 pins seperate each time.
Adapter for the D4S is on the left, Clip for D4 / Q8 is on the right.
Also, if you don’t have an AVR ISP but own an arduino you can program the arduino to act as an ISP.
I couldn’t wait either, my XP-L 5000k came today and I got 4650 lumens at 4.10v with a Shockli on the KG-Lightbox, the shockli are taking hours to fully charge.
Also, to get nearly any kind of connection, I suggest a set of Dupoint connectors (male-male, male-female, female-female)
You will use this cable to make connections between the Pins of the programmer and either the clip or the D4S programming pads.
2. Connections
Now lets look at the available connections, with an example for the D4S.
You have the programmer
And you have the D4S
Now you take the female-male dupont cables and connect it the following way:
USBasp -> D4S
GND (any) to V- (top left)
MOSI to MO
RST to RS
SCK to SC
MISO to MI
VCC to V+ (bottom right)
The result may look like this
(for the BLF Q8 ,D4 or so, you do the same thing but with the connector of the clip. But that’s out of scope for now)
Very tough to call as it’s around 4600 for a split second. The Shockli both came on at 4400 at 4.20v though which was weird, they perform a bit better around 4.10-4.15v
A quick ceiling bounce with the ceiling bounce app calibrated to read 4300 off an Emisar D4 XP-L yeilded the same results:
D4 XP-L 4300
D4S XP-L 4600
Can anyone commend on the Neutral White - XP-G2 S4 5D, 4000K tint and the current draw on full power of the XP-G2 in general? How about tint shift and amount of yellow/green/red? Thinking about getting it as a warmer addition to the XP-L 5000K.
I ordered mine two weeks ago from international outdoors with a Liitokla cell for $70. I am very anxiously awaiting delivery!! i have the D4 and love it but it has it’s drawbacks. I don’t love how easily it can be accidentally turned on and certainly the heat (40 second stepdown) is not favorable.