Video of temperamental button issue - Amazon Drive
Thanks for the video .
If you hold your click for a little longer the problem remains ? ( I mean not long enough to enter last used mode , but a little longer that short click ).
If problem remains there , contact Gearbest (open a ticket) and send them this video .
Good point, actually. The click interval is longer than on the Manker E11 and so you sometimes need to very slowly click to be able to cycle, but even then it sometimes will not respond at all. No matter what you try and do. I’ve opened a ticket on Gearbest with this video.
I have mentioned this before with no response (and hope no offense)…yet it constantly amazes me that so many (save myself) perform these frankensteinish mods on a number of questionable quality lights…yet when something that the average dummy (me) might easily replace with even something that looks just as frankensteinish yet works with that particular switching design…it’s not worth looking at or working on.
Are a lot of these designs just so bad that they can’t even be ‘saved’ by something as simple as an inexpensive (quality) switching device?
I value functionality over beauty and could care less what a light looks like after my $17 was saved for even a few bucks more.
Perhaps I’m just too old and don’t understand our throw-away society or how things are made nowadays
My generation has always run across quality issues from “….”…yet I can never remember ‘a switch’ blowing our minds to the point of simply giving up.
Note: My light is either lost or delayed in the mail system for the first time ever which doesn’t bother me anymore than the switch being defective.
I would simply purchase another…yet am beginning to wonder (now) whether we have exited the lottery era concerning quality and indeed moved
on to that throw-away society which I evidently refuse to live in. 
…even if the question was whether the ‘guts’ could hold up to being switched/programmed/pushed/’whatever’ more than a hundred or so times…if I could program the blasted thing ‘once’ to simply come on in turbo and never use the switch but to turn it off/on…or find another switch that simply keeps the switch ‘on’/never use the switch again until the threads wore out…that’s better (to me) than a stick in the eye.
The one gripe I have with my ut01 is the switch. It’s far from horrible and functions good. It has an odd feel to it and compared to my mecarmy pt14 it’s definitely not in the same category. But it’s a very minor issue on my light. $17 light it’s a good one.
Sso do they relabel the seconds that got bounced from QC?
That’s not true …
Why everyone searches where they come from ?
Because when a pattern emerges — like the bad switch:
people wonder if this is a batch that got build with bad switches, being sold under a different name.
Stuff like that happens. Some supplier sells them a batch of bad parts, the product gets built
and sent out under a different name at a discount, and people start to notice.
It’s a pattern sometimes called “customer QC” or “Charie testing”
The supplier always gets the blame.
…because the switches (or more) don’t work and the fact that their drivers have “Manker” written all over them.
I’m still happy and haven’t even received mine…only curious as to why a fix hasn’t materialized…
This cannot be the case because they are not the same light. They have manufactured a completely different body. though it looks similar it requires its own manufacturing.
Ah, Ya…. Sorry, lost it I guess
It happens to the best of us.
It’ll be interesting to see what the truth is behind the Manker/UTorch story. Given Manker’s reaction, and the difference in body tubes I think it is more likely that any ‘funny business’ was on the part of whoever was contracted to manufacture the head units than Manker itself.
Maybe Manker is behind the Utorch name. It’s their way of generating sales while maintaining their overpriced MAP.
Whatever ends up being the case, it’ll be a cautionary tale (already repeated countless times) for pretty much anyone doing business overseas, no matter the product.
Young entrepreneurs need to both hear and understand every one of these angles before bringing anything they have developed to market.
Not hard to change the settings on a CNC machine to carve out a different-looking tube, right?
I am hopeful your the only one who caught that before I came back to get rid of it, and if others read that post, Please accept my most sincere apology, I should have taken that issue to that person and handled it that way, just might still if it doesn’t stop, post like the one I posted sure don’t help anything and just greats more garbage and issues and I know better… But thx again Kindle very kind of you…!
So lets talk witches or switches, alright here’s a thought, what if a company just had a bunch of left over stuff, like springs, lens, Switches, and decided to have an auction and all the smart OEM guys AND gals showed up and bought say 5000 of each…??
Well what would you do with them next…? No conspiracy there, I hope… ha ha
Anyhow, I’ve taken my CW light apart because I was getting intermittent failures with that lights switch, even though I had just been messing around with my preferred tint the NW for days and doing massive amounts of switch pushing while fooling around with those very cool hidden output modes so wanted to change the modes in the CW also and that is when I noticed that when I needed to do a one click to lock a mode it would not lock the mode due to no click and I did not have one issue with the NW while setting the hidden outputs and that was a lot of clicks, no issues at all until I pulled out the CW.
I took a few pics to show what I think the issue is, and I will only be addressing my lights switch issue,
But if you follow this idea the simplest way to know for sure if your having a switch failure would be to directly switch modes without the switch boot on and clicking modes directly.
It’s really easy to remove that boot and could be done without any tools even, you could use a small flat head screw driver but could also easily poke a hole through this soft silicone boot.
It’s also easily replacable, at least on mine, and even with the retainer ring still in place.
I removed the switch boot simply by gently pulling the boot back to one side so I could see the bottom part of the boot, the hat brim part that secures the boot under the retainer, and I saw how much room there was so I just held it in place with one finger pulling back and used my other finger to sort of pull the boot enough to get a hold of it and just gently pulled it out, simple.
The retainer is pressed in and pressed in tight, might even have a dap of glue but not much on mine, cleaned it all off, then I took a few pics of how I to get to that switch pad and see if your switch is bad for real or not.
In the picture you’ll see that the switch button pad is offset to one side, and these boots are very soft material, the center nub is really IMO to soft also,
Look at how they have formed the solid ledge around where the switch boot nub is supposed to contact the pad, with the switch off to one side like this the nub from the boot nub can get hung up on that ledge, that explained to me why I could sort of push down and upwards at the same time and get it to change modes easier than what is just a normal switch push.
All of this should be fairly simple to straighten out, maybe using a clear L6 switch small one or the ThorFire S70 clear side switch boot,
I’m not sure how to recenter the switch quit yet, but working on it,
I hate to admit this but I can’t get the reflector out, not sure if screwed in or glued in, but it doesn’t seem normal and don’t want to mess it up.
So here a few pics and if you do take a small blunt object and click through your switch modes directly on the switch pad, with no boot installed, and then it still won’t change modes, well that’s a for sure bad switch of course since everything that it could get hung up on is out of the way now, just want to help out because I really do like these lights,
George did a great job on putting these GB’s together and the price for these were super fantastic, so it does make me sad to see so much worry about this or that with the lights, it doesn’t matter at all to me who made them or what parts as long as it is as it is, I am happy, it works, it’s was very cheap and it’s a nice looking light,
“Pics of switch”:
OK, fixed my switch issue.
What was happening was the switch boot nub was catching on that flat ledge around the switch contact pad.
So all you have to do is remove the switch boot, very easy to do.
Check the switch by directly pressing on the switch contact and go through all your modes and on/off, check double click, check everything and if all your modes are working fine then it’s probably not centered and catching on that ledge, you should be able to notice easy enough.
So being that the driver, switch and MCPCB are all one piece, just get some very fine tweezers and inside the positive end of the driver take the tweezers like you where going to remove a regular retainer ring, and just slightly turn the complete driver assembly one way or the other until it looks centered and put the boot back in, it’s very easy to put in since that retainer isn’t really pressed down hard onto the lip of the boot.
And done,
Hope that helps someone, these are really great lights no matter what.
Thank You George, what’s next ??
Edit: By the way the reflector is threaded and mine had a small dap of glue on it, might be wise to remove reflector prior to twisting on the driver end…
Thanks for confirming that the driver, switch and MCPCB are indeed all one piece.
It might also be helpful to remember that poster Mankerlight has (for some unknown reason) been the most unhappy member with this light along with at least one other poster insisting that BLFers not support its sale.
Kudos to George have flowed and every post involving unknown manufacturing issues have fed off of those two challenges.
Your quit welcome Freedom, if there is one thing I regret posting on Georges thread here was my comment about Manker being stamped on my drivers,
I had NO idea that a member here was yet again making some big stupid controversy out of now these lights.
What bothers me the most is I have seen this one member do this so many times, seems to just thrive on conspiracy theories,
The guy doesn’t ever buy the light or support the group buy or Georges hard work, just likes to cause trouble,
It just gets old and hard to ignore sometimes.
All I know for a fact is I have 4 fantastic lights and I got them at a great price thanks to George,
Thanks again George, you are great, and greatly appreciated, and I’m sort of patiently waiting for your next venture, so very very happy with my lights for sure…!
Hey did I mention that it said JetBean on my switch? Hum, Odd… What’s really going on, 
And I think the anti reflective coating on the UT01 lens is a copy of the same coating on the UTorch 007 lens, weird…?