Factory sent us their proof within 5 mins from our request. If anyone is doubtful of their 219C, please send in your beamshots for us to have a look.
See, he has inside connections. I knew it! Lol
It would be nice if Mateminco consulted with BLF in order to produce a better product.
Tell your friend they should not be cheap on the thermal sensor and stepdown circuitry. Make it as “smart” as possible so it has good usability.
How to differentiate V2 from V1?
1) Number of wires leading to emitter MCPCB.
NOTE: I was told that during V1-V2 transitional period, manufacturer had converted 80+ V1 PCB into V2. Which means that V2 exist in both 2 and 6 wires configurations in early phase of second batch.
2) V2 has four power inductors on new driver instead of 3 larger ones for V1.
3) Manufacturer replaced standard Phillips head screws to tamper proof Torx head.
The replacement head for my Nichia light is being delivered today. The original head, though faulty, still powers up. I may do some beamshots of the two tonight.
+1.
Thanks a lot for the info freeme. Torx = sexy :sunglasses:
Maybe bad picture of those v1 and v2 Mcpcb but in my eyes those emitters doesn’t look the same.
Edit: could be the angle of the photo tho.
V1 pictured = Nichia, V2 pictured = XP-G3 if I’m not mistaken.
You are referring to this? 219C is on the left and XP-G3 on the right. What I am trying to show are the wires in the center.
Yeah. Getting tired. Didn’t think of that. My brain just saw 2 pictures and started to point out what was different.
MAIL CALL!!!
Thru the frosted part of the optics, you can see the 6 wires of the V1 vs the 2 wires of the V2.
I had intended on getting some outside comparison beamshots. However, in the cold, wet rainy day air, I didn’t feel comfortable swapping the heads back and forth.
Instead, I did a shot with my Nichia S41S and my MF-01 at comparable output levels. Other than a slight difference in tint, it’s clear that the V2s are of the High CRI variety. 
LEFT - S41S RIGHT - MF-01
But the big question is are you finally happy with the light (so far)? I personally love this light, and I want others to enjoy it as much as I do.
Yes, I am. I’ve only used it with the new head for a few minutes before I had some pending stuff to take care of. Step down from turbo was right at a minute. Though, the ambient temp was 50F. I believe my S41S steps down at about 45sec., so a 1 min step down for the V2 is not at all shocking. My Manker MK41 and two HaikeLites will hold turbo for much longer. But, you pretty much need to wear a glove if you’re going to operate them on turbo for an extended period. I’ve had the V2 on High for about 10 min now, and there’s been no step down and it’s only slightly warm . I also like that the step down “steps down”, instead of a sudden drop to the lower level.
Now, what to do with the other head…
Freeme, thanks for pic v1 VS v2.
Whats about different in mode spacing?
Also, did they do runtime test for v1 and v2?
You can use one flashlight with both heads, so there is no need to swap it in the rainy air.
Sell. Best for me … :innocent:
I’m curious how long you can shine in the high mode, If the batteries are half full? 10,20,30 min?
Interested in a 219C.
You got mail. [quote=aequitas] Interested in a 219C. [/quote]
Measurements with IR thermometer:
Ambient 18C. Torch at ambient, unused for 12 hours. Tail standing (not ideal I know, but consistent and worst-case).
Turbo lasted 2 minutes exactly, hottest spot on head 41C. Tube 25C.
Turned it off and rested it for 5 minutes, head now down to 30C, tube risen to 28C.
Turned on in High, which lasted 11 more minutes, head 42C, tube 38C.
Left it switched on in stepped downed state, it seemed to stabilise with the head at 42, tube at 38.
So there can be almost no cooling effect from hand-holding, blood temperature being 37C, probably the opposite.
Unless you are e.g. a dog, with a counterflow heat exchanger built into your paws.
Keeps your hand nicely warm, but that doesn’t mean your hand is cooling it, actually the opposite. The tube would have to be a lot hotter than your blood for heat to flow out of it.
If the weather is cold enough to chill your hands, you would probably be better dangling the torch from the lanyard to give it some chilly airflow, rather than holding it in warm hands, nevermind insulated gloved ones.
Brightness seemed much the same as Med1, (1100 lm ?) which I know it can sustain indefinitely without further stepping down. I got 25 more minutes before the switch started winking red. I.e. total duration trying to wring out as much output as I could, start to finish, 38 minutes, of which the vast majority at a stepped down level.
Once that switch starts winking you had better pay attention, because there is not much energy left, the boost driver will drain the cells down to the last dregs whilst still maintaining good brightness, then switch off suddenly with no other warning. A few blinks, a 5 minute warning etc. would have been nice.
I may try one more time, just start in turbo and let it look after itself, but I suspect much the same result
The torch is definitely safe to use, it never got close to e.g. the UK scald limits, and this is in a worst case tail-standing situation.
I would prefer it run harder and get scarily hot if provoked, but can understand why it doesn’t. A Lexel driver is certainly an option, but since I have v.2 MCPCB its not an easy mod.